Fan won't turn
#1
Fan won't turn
2009 Mule 4010 trans diesel. Had to replace the radiator after running a tree limb thru it now the fan behind radiator will not come on. Will spin freely by hand and was working with old radiator. Any suggestions on a fix.
#2
Question:-
1. Did you run the engine and bleed the cooling system after refilling the radiator?
There is a special process (not difficult) for bleeding air out of the cooling system. An air lock may give you issues if you haven't properly bled the system.
2. The fan may be electric, evident by wires and a plug alongside the radiator to unplug and remove it.
3. If not electric, the fan will be activated via a bi-metallic strip on the front of it.
Either should activate automatically but only when required. Traditionally bi-metallic cooling fans can be made to run continually as they are designed so the small bi-metallic strip can be moved sideways slightly to do this.
The fan wasn't damaged by the tree branch as well?
1. Did you run the engine and bleed the cooling system after refilling the radiator?
There is a special process (not difficult) for bleeding air out of the cooling system. An air lock may give you issues if you haven't properly bled the system.
2. The fan may be electric, evident by wires and a plug alongside the radiator to unplug and remove it.
3. If not electric, the fan will be activated via a bi-metallic strip on the front of it.
Either should activate automatically but only when required. Traditionally bi-metallic cooling fans can be made to run continually as they are designed so the small bi-metallic strip can be moved sideways slightly to do this.
The fan wasn't damaged by the tree branch as well?
Last edited by bpmule; 07-24-2018 at 10:34 AM. Reason: adding content
#4
OK.
You have to bleed the system or you will have a serious air lock and the cooling system will not function properly. There are hard coolant pipes that run higher than the radiator and that's why you have to bleed it. There is a small bleeder located on one of the black hard pipes visible with the bed lifted. It's on the RHS from memory. It's up high and is about an 1/8 bolt in the hard pipe that you crack to release the air once the engine is at operating temperature.
It's night here so too late to take a photo of it for you. If you are happy to provide me with an email address, I'll take a photo of it tomorrow first thing (about 12 hour's time) and email you direct. I was just checking on-line and I can't find an adequate photo of the bleeder. Information is also available if you have a Factory Workshop Manual, and may also be available in your Owner's Manual on bleeding the system that may save you the time.
I would very careful using the Mule if you have not bled the system.
You have to bleed the system or you will have a serious air lock and the cooling system will not function properly. There are hard coolant pipes that run higher than the radiator and that's why you have to bleed it. There is a small bleeder located on one of the black hard pipes visible with the bed lifted. It's on the RHS from memory. It's up high and is about an 1/8 bolt in the hard pipe that you crack to release the air once the engine is at operating temperature.
It's night here so too late to take a photo of it for you. If you are happy to provide me with an email address, I'll take a photo of it tomorrow first thing (about 12 hour's time) and email you direct. I was just checking on-line and I can't find an adequate photo of the bleeder. Information is also available if you have a Factory Workshop Manual, and may also be available in your Owner's Manual on bleeding the system that may save you the time.
I would very careful using the Mule if you have not bled the system.
#5
A picture of the bleeder has been sent to your email address as requested. According to The Factory Workshop Manual (7-12).
Bleeder is on top of the black pipe beside the rubber right angled hose.
1. The coolant system holds 4.4L.
2. Use a mix of 50% distilled water and 50% coolant.
3. Raise the front of the Mule at least 12 inches so that the radiator filler cap is the highest point in the system.
4. Slowly fill the system through the radiator allowing air to escape.
5. Crack the bleeder until fluid escapes then tighten it.
6. Fill the radiator to the top.
7. Start and run the engine.
8. Look for escaping air out of the radiator filler hole.
9. Tap all of the radiator hoses lightly to help any other air escape.
10. Fasten the radiator cap once no more escaping air bubbles are visible.
11. Lower the Mule and then fill the overflow bottle to the correct level.
I own a 4010 Trans and also maintain another 4010 Trans as well as two 3010's and a 610 for other people. In my experience that shroud around the small plastic fan and around the alternator under the bed serves no purpose. The bottom mounts tend to break and they rattle. Using tin snips and a small angle grinder, I have removed these shrouds on the 4010 and the two 3010's. You can see your fan belt then and adjust it or replace it.
The FWM states that drive shafts have to be removed to properly take this shroud off. Just be careful when you cut it away.
Hope this helps and looking forward to hearing the result.
Bleeder is on top of the black pipe beside the rubber right angled hose.
1. The coolant system holds 4.4L.
2. Use a mix of 50% distilled water and 50% coolant.
3. Raise the front of the Mule at least 12 inches so that the radiator filler cap is the highest point in the system.
4. Slowly fill the system through the radiator allowing air to escape.
5. Crack the bleeder until fluid escapes then tighten it.
6. Fill the radiator to the top.
7. Start and run the engine.
8. Look for escaping air out of the radiator filler hole.
9. Tap all of the radiator hoses lightly to help any other air escape.
10. Fasten the radiator cap once no more escaping air bubbles are visible.
11. Lower the Mule and then fill the overflow bottle to the correct level.
I own a 4010 Trans and also maintain another 4010 Trans as well as two 3010's and a 610 for other people. In my experience that shroud around the small plastic fan and around the alternator under the bed serves no purpose. The bottom mounts tend to break and they rattle. Using tin snips and a small angle grinder, I have removed these shrouds on the 4010 and the two 3010's. You can see your fan belt then and adjust it or replace it.
The FWM states that drive shafts have to be removed to properly take this shroud off. Just be careful when you cut it away.
Hope this helps and looking forward to hearing the result.
Last edited by bpmule; 07-24-2018 at 11:26 PM. Reason: Added picture
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