winterizing TS 650
#1
10-26-2006, 06:55 AM
winterizing TS 650
Hi all,
New to this forum hope i can contribute in some way. Now my issue...I bought my kids a 1990 TS 650 last spring and they love it....now the season is over and it did not come with a manual and I can not find any info on winterizing it...also where is the hook up to put a hose on it so you can run it in your driveway? (if there is one)...any help or info would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Later, Dan
New to this forum hope i can contribute in some way. Now my issue...I bought my kids a 1990 TS 650 last spring and they love it....now the season is over and it did not come with a manual and I can not find any info on winterizing it...also where is the hook up to put a hose on it so you can run it in your driveway? (if there is one)...any help or info would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Later, Dan
#2
10-26-2006, 02:22 PM
RE: winterizing TS 650
I got my TS last month. I am new to jetskis also. I found this info on Jetskimechanic.com.......
For those of you that don't ride year round, here is a tip on saving your craft so it's ready to go the next Season when you go out. First I would like to explain the biggest problem that the Two-Stroke Motor goes through. While the Motor sits and is not ran there is no new fresh charge of Oil to coat the Mechanical parts in the Engine. Thus the enemy CONDENSATION attacks the metal parts and starts to Oxide all of them. So this is what I recommend to do. First off add Fuel Stabilizer in the gas so while you do the next steps it will get in the fuel line and the carbs. The Idea to to coat all the parts when you winterize the motor. Seadoo makes Fogging Oil which is great for this or Maxima penetrating lube is my choice. I spray a generous amount in each Cylinder making sure the Piston is at Bottom Dead Center. (This can be done with a screw driver in the spark plug hole and then watch it go to the lowest point). This will allow the Oil to get into the crankcase through the transfer ports. Once this is done for each Cylinder I leave the Spark Plugs out and lay a dry shop rag over the openings. This way the motor can breath. Remember that anything you can do to eliminate the moisture in the hull compartment will help also. I completely dry the inside of the hull. If you store your craft inside a closed area it is also good to let the seat or hood be cracked open. I put a plastic cup there to hold the hood open. If you store your craft outside and the Rain can get to it spray the lube all over the motor and then seal the seat closed. I also disconnect the Negative battery cable off. It's a good Idea to take the battery out and store in a cool, dark dry area, and you can even put a trickle charge on it once a month to keep it good. Lube all the cables and grease all the zerk fittings if your craft has them. If it freezes where you live you will want to mix a 50/50 mix of water and anti freeze and through the inlet water line from the pump you can pour this mixture in. Then start the craft so that you can get as much of the water out for only 10-15 seconds. This is like "blowing it out" and most of the water will come out of the system. But if some stays inside it will have the antifreeze in it and won't freeze the motor. Make sure to do the fogging Oil last after the waterlines are done.
As for running the ski in the driveway, this is what I did.
There is a hose going from under the engine up to the head. On that hose near the head there is a "T" with a rubber cap over it. Under the cap is where I connectec a water hose to flush the engine. I had to cut an old water hose and use a hose clamp to hold it. As long as you see water comming out the small hole on the left front of the ski just above where the waterline is, the ski is getting the water it needs to cool it.
For those of you that don't ride year round, here is a tip on saving your craft so it's ready to go the next Season when you go out. First I would like to explain the biggest problem that the Two-Stroke Motor goes through. While the Motor sits and is not ran there is no new fresh charge of Oil to coat the Mechanical parts in the Engine. Thus the enemy CONDENSATION attacks the metal parts and starts to Oxide all of them. So this is what I recommend to do. First off add Fuel Stabilizer in the gas so while you do the next steps it will get in the fuel line and the carbs. The Idea to to coat all the parts when you winterize the motor. Seadoo makes Fogging Oil which is great for this or Maxima penetrating lube is my choice. I spray a generous amount in each Cylinder making sure the Piston is at Bottom Dead Center. (This can be done with a screw driver in the spark plug hole and then watch it go to the lowest point). This will allow the Oil to get into the crankcase through the transfer ports. Once this is done for each Cylinder I leave the Spark Plugs out and lay a dry shop rag over the openings. This way the motor can breath. Remember that anything you can do to eliminate the moisture in the hull compartment will help also. I completely dry the inside of the hull. If you store your craft inside a closed area it is also good to let the seat or hood be cracked open. I put a plastic cup there to hold the hood open. If you store your craft outside and the Rain can get to it spray the lube all over the motor and then seal the seat closed. I also disconnect the Negative battery cable off. It's a good Idea to take the battery out and store in a cool, dark dry area, and you can even put a trickle charge on it once a month to keep it good. Lube all the cables and grease all the zerk fittings if your craft has them. If it freezes where you live you will want to mix a 50/50 mix of water and anti freeze and through the inlet water line from the pump you can pour this mixture in. Then start the craft so that you can get as much of the water out for only 10-15 seconds. This is like "blowing it out" and most of the water will come out of the system. But if some stays inside it will have the antifreeze in it and won't freeze the motor. Make sure to do the fogging Oil last after the waterlines are done.
As for running the ski in the driveway, this is what I did.
There is a hose going from under the engine up to the head. On that hose near the head there is a "T" with a rubber cap over it. Under the cap is where I connectec a water hose to flush the engine. I had to cut an old water hose and use a hose clamp to hold it. As long as you see water comming out the small hole on the left front of the ski just above where the waterline is, the ski is getting the water it needs to cool it.
#3
10-26-2006, 05:38 PM
RE: winterizing TS 650
Nice to have you in the forum. What you are referring to is a flush kit. It usually has to be added to your engine. It consists of a hose receptacle that a hose can be connected to. I recently put one on my 1995 750. I went to a Kawasaki dealer to get it. They are easy to install. They are also available on the internet if you want to order one there.
#4
10-26-2006, 08:10 PM
RE: winterizing TS 650
It is important to start the einge FIRST, then turn on the water right after that (run!). No more than 3/4 turn on your water faucet usually. Water can enter the combustion chamber if you do it wrong. If you are completely new to jetski, it would be a good investment to buy a owner's manual from a Kawi dealer.
#5
11-02-2006, 10:17 AM
RE: winterizing TS 650
Thanks to all who replied...I think that I got it done.....just one other ? for now.......should I have gotten anti-freeze out of the exhaust hole?..it seemed that it was coming out of the pump only and got about a cup of water out of the exhaust and i did get antifreeze out of the pee hole up front.
Thanks again, Dan
Thanks again, Dan
#6
11-02-2006, 06:35 PM
RE: winterizing TS 650
It is OK to leave some antifreeze in the exhaust system. Actually some even recommends so that reamaining stagnant water in the system does not crack the exh pipe when/if it freezes. However, you should get rid of it before you put the ski in lake/river next time so that it does not pollute the water if it's not biodegradable.
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