I recently took my bike out of storage. I winterized the bike prior to storing it (removing gas from tank/carbs, etc). However, I ended up having to remove and clean the carburetors to remove varnish. The bike started easily and was idling well, just a little rough and idling a few hundred RPM too fast. So, I tried adjusting the idle cable to drop the RPM a touch. Small adjustments didn't work, so I made bigger adjustments, which still didn't work. In retrospect I think the idle cable must have been binding up behind the fuel hose, which is a little bit bigger than stock and runs right next to the idle cable coming into the back of the carb.

When I started the bike up again it idled at 6000 RPM and would not come down. I killed the engine and tried to readjust the idle cable, without any improvement in the idle speed. At this point I partially pulled out the carb and found that the idle cable had come completely unscrewed. I rethreaded it into the connection (with the spring and washer) fairly tightly. I did not find a nut to secure the cable. Anyway when I replaced the carb and started the engine the idle speed was appropriate but when given any throttle the engine revved to 3000 RPM and only slowly came down to 2500 RPM. 2 days later I tried starting the bike and it will not catch, even with adjustments of the idle cable to both extremes and everywhere in-between.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I learned my lesson on this one, but I would really like to have a working bike again.

 

Welcome to KF

So, on pg 2-7 of your factory service manual, the choke free play should be 2-3mm

The adjustment requires the tank to be lifted in order to tighten the locknut.

So the choke adjustment is taken care of now. Check that and get that inspection out of the way since you have been playing with it! lol

edit: I have an extra used factory service manual on this ride if interested. The 93-95 ZX-11 and ZZR

 

Was gonna sugest the Choke, but Drag beat me to it. Sounds like it is effecting all the carbs equally so I doubt it was a problem with one of the carbs, my guess is linkage.

As drag suggested check the choke for tolerances and also check the throttle for proper actuation and return, could have some binding in the cables keeping it from returning properly. Let us know what you find.

Welcome to KF!

 

Thanks for the welcome. I neglected to mention the I checked the choke and adjusted it for free play. I did notice when I pulled it out of storage that there is no deceleration cable, which I thought was weird -- I have never had problems with the bike before now, so I don't even know if it is necessary. When I originally pulled off the carbs to clean them out I had to handle the acceleration throttle cable quite a bit, but when I initially started it up the throttle response seemed fine-- it was only after I monkeyed with the idle cable that the engine stays revved. But, I was thinking about lubricating it anyway.

 

You need both of those cables for proper function and safety. decel cable p/n: 54012-0022 $25

 

Dont some rides have a single cable setup? I wouldnt really trust it but I guess the manufacturers do. If the cable is missing make sure you get it back on...

 

Yep^ 2 different kinds; push-pull (2 cable) and pull only with heavier return spring on carb (1 cable.)

If memory serves, Keihin CV's use 2, Mikuni's use 1.

 

Update: I have been able to briefly get the bike started (I say briefly because it dies shortly after it starts) by putting a little bit of started fluid into the cylinders. I talked to the friend that I bought the bike from years ago, and he suggested it might be a problem with the butterfly valves.

I pulled off the carbs again, cleaned them out, noticed that one of the idle jets again seemed to be clogged, cleaned it out, and checked the butterfly valves. On of the valves did seem to adjust slightly more slowly with the idle cable. I cleaned the valves thoroughly with carb cleaner. I adjusted the idle cable with the carbs off with about 10-15% opening of the butterfly valves. I replaced the carbs.

I did not put starter fluid into the bike per my friend who said that repeated use of starter fluid dries out the oil in the cylinder and is not good for the bike. Now, it won't start at all. I have compression, have spark, am using fresh gas, and have managed to transform a previously working bike into a frustration. Any thoughts on what the problem might be would be appreciated. Of note, when I pull the spark plugs out #1 is dry, the rest have gas on them, but I have thoroughly cleaned the jets today, so I think that is weird.

Thanks.

 

Your friend is right, however, the greatest risk comes when the bike will only run if you keep spraying the fluid into the intake/carb to keep it running. (Some of you guys know what I mean.) Just a "shot" of juice (in the cylinders or airbox) to get things started, won't hurt because it's burned off in one "bang." The next piston rotation will get enough oil to the walls to keep things slick.
Fuel is getting to 3 plugs, you have spark, and it doesn't fire at ALL? Hmmm. Is fuel getting to that carb bowl? Choke adjusted properly on that carb? Same exact needle and screw adjustments? Broken or binding float?
If all else fails, start over. Re-trace your steps and double check. That's the beauty of carbs; you can disassemble them like your favorite firearm and spec and re-spec. Channel your frustration into solving the mechanical mystery; the eventual ride will be more rewarding; that's the EASY part. (You're not alone; most of us have been there.)

 

^+1, retrace your steps and procedures. It can get frustrating, but if you follow the correct procedures in your manual, then you should be golden.

yes, verify fuel on that dry cylinder. Maybe a stuck float.