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Electrical problem on 1997 zx6-e, battery discharge at high speeds
I have a 1997 ZX6-E that I just got back into running order after taking it in to a shop. A new battery was among the items on the list. The biggee was a carb sync and jet cleaning as the bike sat for 2yrs while I was at grad school.
I took a 200mile highway ride (at about ~75mph) to see some friends. When I stopped to get gas at about 120 miles in I had to push start the bike to get it up and running. The gas station was <1mile from the exit. When I tried to start the bike the bike hesitated the first time. Then after that I just got the click-click-click of the battery not having enough juice. I didn't have the choke on because the engine was warm from the ~2hrs of riding. Another 80 or so miles at highway speed and I get off the highway. To get to my friends place it takes a good 15-20 minutes of city driving. After stopping at my friends place, I then had to move the bike. I kept stalling the bike out because I forgot to raise the kickstand. Yet I started it ~4-5 times without any battery problems. The next day I went riding with my friend. We cruised around the countryside probably going no faster than 65mph and averaging high 50s (when not cruising through small towns) for ~60miles. Every time we stopped and started the engine cranked over without a problem. We stopped 3-4 times and often cruised through small towns on our trip. On my way home (two days after my arrival) I again encountered the battery problem when I had to stop to get gas. I was cruising along at 75-80mph and then pulled off and grabbed gas within spitting distance of the highway exit.Hit the starter to get going again and pfffft..she didnt' crank over. I hit the starter again and just get the click-click-click. I push start and am on my way yet all the more frustrated. When I got home I stuck the battery on the trickle charger as a preventative measure for ~7hrs. I took a short ride (10min 3 miles) to run an errand the next day and the engine cranked over fine with the starter and battery doing their jobs just fine. I find it interesting that at lower speeds or times when I end a ride with the engine in the low rpm range that the battery kicks the engine over without a problem. Yet the problem manifests itself after riding at high speeds (75+ mph at 6000+rpms) and then quickly getting off the highway and shutting the engine down. I did a test I found online to check the charging system: I checked the voltage on the battery and am getting 14.2V on the terminals with the engine off. I then turned the engine on and let it warm up a bit. I checked voltages on the battery terminals with the engine running and at 5500rpm I get about 14.60 volts with it increasing from 14.20V. I did this with both the low beam and high beam on. Both showed 14.6V at 5500rpm. I then turned the engine off and read 14.9V on the battery. This is a new battery (Bikemaster TruGel MG12-BS) All fuses are in tact (checked the junction box fuses and the main 30A fuse) I've pulled the junction box and the contacts all look to be in great shape. I did a continuity check on the junction box and get all the recommended resistance readings. It appears that I need a special tool (from what I've read in the maintenance manuals) to check the rectifier. Is this true? Are there any ways around this? I all ready spent $$$ to get the bike back up and running and would like to not have to bow down to the Man for this. Is there an easy way to check the alternator? I read somewhere that you can check via starting the bike and then removing the wires from the battery. I attempted this and when I loosened the positive terminal on the battery, the engine cut off. I'm not sure if this is an accurate measure of things as no book I've seen mentions such a test. Am I missing some obvious problem spot that I should check? Something is obviously wrong. I'd like to figure it out before I ruin the brand new battery that I just got installed. Any help or hints are greatly appreciated. Nick |
It appears that I need a special tool (from what I've read in the maintenance manuals) to check the rectifier. |
No it states that there is a special Kawasaki tester tool that you use. It has some internal circuitry and when you test with the leads one way you get reading X but when you test with the leads flip-flopped then you get reading Y. So you can't test with a regular multimeter.
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So you can't test with a regular multimeter. |
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