Electrical Nightmare ZX7
#1
Electrical Nightmare ZX7
97 zx7 theft recovery, major hacking was done to wiring. Everything works now only no spark. Tested everything in the manual and comes up good. FP relay, str relay, ig. coils, pulse coil, igniter, junction box, all handlebar switches, what the hell else could be wrong with this thing. I must have tested everything ten times now and still not even the faintest spark. HELP Anyone?
#3
RE: Electrical Nightmare ZX7
How are you checking for spark. You say the coils are good but do you have power or spark at them? I am not a expert with the problem you are having but with electrical problems you have to start at point A and work towards point Z, some where in between you will find the problem. It can be frustrating especially if you start jumping around.
Sorry I do not have the easy answer but just start tracing again and stay on the path, point A to Z and you will find the problem.
Let us know what you find.
Sorry I do not have the easy answer but just start tracing again and stay on the path, point A to Z and you will find the problem.
Let us know what you find.
#4
RE: Electrical Nightmare ZX7
Exactly what notstock said. How are you testing the coils. You probably just tested the primary circuit and not the secondary. I'm guessing you have 12v power into the coil, but you don't have high secondary voltage. I am also assuming you have a wiring diagram, and all the wires are right. If the theft was just wiring snipping, etc, all parts are probablt good, and there's a trigger wire somewhere that's not quite right. I would probably start at the ignition switch and trace from there. There could be a wire that you missed that is pinched or cut?? Multi meter time. All power to the coils, etc, is through the ignition circuits, I would say start there.....
Oh, when you use a multi meter, use a digital because the digital is more electronic safe with built in diode protection..
Oh, when you use a multi meter, use a digital because the digital is more electronic safe with built in diode protection..
#5
RE: Electrical Nightmare ZX7
I did actually test primary and secondary of both coils and both were within specs. I just did another test on the start relay that is in the junction block. This time I did the battery power test and it tested bad. So I de-soldered it along with the headlight relay which is the same exact part, and resoldered on the HL relay in place of the start relay. I am about to test for spark now. I'll let ya know. Thanks
#7
check out this previous post on No Spark..the 6v feed for anti theft to the module..black box...
if you can afford a bit of time (maybe mywednesday night) for me to look at mine, i'll tell you if your should check something you might be overlooking..
gotta find out for myself, first!
i'll let ya know what it is anyway.
ok.. now on my 7-R, theres a resister in the key switch. power comes in at 12V on the wire wire. it goes out as 12V on the brown, BUT.. the resistor in the switch knocks down the power to 6 volts.. this 6V feed runs ONLY to the ECI/CDI.
i'm pretty sure the 6-C/D/E have the same 6 volt feed.. should be a gray wire.
i have 2 "E" models, and they're both apart, so i'll look at the keyswitch assembly when i get to my shop.
i know 100% forfact the CDI will interchange, (between my 7-R and both 6-E's)so that leads me to believe that the 600's have the same anti-theft low-voltage CDI feed.
anyways, sometimes this resistor burns up, or the wire breaks off inside the keyswitch.
may not be the problem, but it'll give you another thing to consider looking at.
chances are, if theres no spark, you should NOT get fuel, either.
the fuel pump relay gets it's gate pulse from the #1/#4 coil pack signal. the #2/#3 signal just runs right to the other coil.
with this setup, fuel will only me fed at the same time the signal feeds the coil to the 1/4 coil.. it's NOT a constant feed.
so, if you HAVE fuel flow, you're looking at a bad coil pack.
if you don't have fuel flow, look at the 6 volt feed, and trigger coil. the CDI's rarely go bad on these things tho, unless it's shorted badly.
if you can afford a bit of time (maybe mywednesday night) for me to look at mine, i'll tell you if your should check something you might be overlooking..
gotta find out for myself, first!
i'll let ya know what it is anyway.
ok.. now on my 7-R, theres a resister in the key switch. power comes in at 12V on the wire wire. it goes out as 12V on the brown, BUT.. the resistor in the switch knocks down the power to 6 volts.. this 6V feed runs ONLY to the ECI/CDI.
i'm pretty sure the 6-C/D/E have the same 6 volt feed.. should be a gray wire.
i have 2 "E" models, and they're both apart, so i'll look at the keyswitch assembly when i get to my shop.
i know 100% forfact the CDI will interchange, (between my 7-R and both 6-E's)so that leads me to believe that the 600's have the same anti-theft low-voltage CDI feed.
anyways, sometimes this resistor burns up, or the wire breaks off inside the keyswitch.
may not be the problem, but it'll give you another thing to consider looking at.
chances are, if theres no spark, you should NOT get fuel, either.
the fuel pump relay gets it's gate pulse from the #1/#4 coil pack signal. the #2/#3 signal just runs right to the other coil.
with this setup, fuel will only me fed at the same time the signal feeds the coil to the 1/4 coil.. it's NOT a constant feed.
so, if you HAVE fuel flow, you're looking at a bad coil pack.
if you don't have fuel flow, look at the 6 volt feed, and trigger coil. the CDI's rarely go bad on these things tho, unless it's shorted badly.
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