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EL-250 Eliminator siezed engine

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Default EL-250 Eliminator siezed engine

Hello, I'm new. Just aquired a 1994 EL-250 Eliminator which has been stood around collecting dust since 2001. Previous owner told me it ran ok when he got it but other bikes took priority and he never got round to tarting it up. (DVLA seems to confirm that it's not been on the road since 2001). Engine wont turn over. (solenoid clicking away) all electrics ok. Can anyone throw a bit of light on what might be going on inside (has it froze due to not being turned over regular?) also clutch does not disengage. Apart from engine the bike is in reasonable shape and I can get it to look nice again. I don't think there were many of these brought into the UK. Hope someone can help, Cheers, Keith.
 
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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Welcome to the forums Keith, it sounds like a bike I bought 20 years ago. IT had been sitting for a few years, and the clutch plates or the springs were stuck, it worked itself loose, don't assume that the motor is froze up, it could very well be that the battery is too low to get the motor to turn over. Check the oil, pull the plug and see if it will turn over. You might have to force the wheel to turn the motor over. Give it a try. I'm not really familiar with that bike, but if it looks something like the one below, then here is a link to someone who has one, perhaps he might have some good information to share, but there will probably be someone on here soon that might be able to add some thoughts. Again welcome to the site and post some pics of the project.


http://www.bikepics.com/kawasaki/el2...ember-list.asp




 
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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Thank you for quick reply and good info, and yes that's the bike in the photo! will post pics as soon as I can get bike outside when our ice-age ends!!! (should be soon) thanks again, Keith
 
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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No problem Keith, remember to take out the spark plug first so you can get it to turn over easier. More than likely after sitting that long, the very first thing I would do would be to buy a brand new battery and get a battery maintainer so that you can keep the battery charged while working on the bike. Good luck.
 
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Hi Deej, got rocker cover off today and took out plugs which were in clean condition and then turned the engine manually. Did this by removing large screw plate on left side of engine and then getting a socket on the nut head inside and turning slowly. I was surprised how easy this was but noticed a slightly stiff point. Generally I'm pleased with what I saw and that there were no crunching or grinding noises. I think this engine may be ok. The carbs next............ do you think they may need a good clean? ( think you are right about new battery, the one I used to try and turn engine over was totally flat today so probably wasnt up to it) Thanks again, Keith
 
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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scampy: Congrats on turning over the engine by hand. I like pulling the plugs and using Marvel Mystery Oil to line the dry walls and possible stuck rings from sitting too long.
You will most likely find that the carb is going to need to be removed and cleaned, all rubber boots and lines may or may not show cracking. Yes, a new battery is needed, new tires and also check the fork seals and shock for leakage. Lube up the cables while you are at it. Have fun and learn your ride.
 
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:49 PM
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Hi Drag19, thanks for your helpful comments. This engine is a 250 twin liquid cooled twin carb, like the ER-5 (uk model - or at least it looks like that) I've never seen one of these before and we did'nt get many 250 road bikes in the UK back in 90's.(UK silly bike laws!! ) We have the BN125 Eliminator which is a little brother to this one. For a 250 it's a nice sophisticated engine and if it could be got back running would make a lovely collectable mini cruiser bike. The cooling system makes me worry a bit.(filler bottle low behind engine-difficult to get at and check level..... but also I wonder if coolant pump is ok and rest of system, there's corrosion around rad pipe fittings etc. BACK TO REALITY................... WHAT A *ISSER.... KAW PULLING OUT OF MOTO GP, poor Mr. Hopkins, he was one of my favourite riders!!, Cheers, Keith.
 
Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Look in the forum in the general discussions. The ER-5 manual should be listed. Although I can also follow similar discussions using my BN125 manual. Yeah, bummer about hoppy.
 
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:38 AM
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Put some Marvel Mystery oil, (or 10 weight motor oil if you cant get the Marvel) in the cylinder, about a tablespoon full. Turn the motor over a few times with the plug out, then put the plug back in and let it sit for a couple of days. This will hopefully free the rings. Of course in the meantime you can be working on the other stuff. You definately need to drain the coolant and install new coolant hoses before you ride this bike anywhere. Check the chain for rust and wear. Drain the shock oil and engine oil and install new lubricant. As long as that bike has been sitting, I would check every single thing before riding it. A bike is simular to working on an airplane. If you have a serious mechanical failure, the chances of getting hurt are high! And get new tires!!!
Good luck and ride safely!
 
Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Hi again, engine is turning ok but no spark at both plugs (brand new). leads ok and showing 12v at positive on both coils with ignition on. I've seen sparking from plug body to engine block when ignition on after trying starter button. I have contacted bike specialists and have number of possible causes: most seem to agree both coils going down very rare, the CDI is a possible cause they say (they also say that's an expensive job). I've also been told the pulse generator could be the cause, and also the ignition switch ( where the key goes) can be problematic. The most knowledgable guy said (after I mentioned the erratic sparking) check ALL wiring for shorting, he seemed to think cdi would be ok. Any ideas ?? If the cdi has gone I dont want to waste loads of time trying to trace a rogue short circuit.
 



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