BiKE HELP!
Probably in a Tech Section here, or in your manual. (You DO have a manual?) If not, here are the basics:
Drain engine oil.
1. Take out clutch cover bolts.
2. Gently knock around case with rubber mallet to loosen, if it doesn't fall off on its own.
3. Clean the mating surface of the case cover/case, if sealant was used. DO NOT use abrasive or (worse) a gasket scraper which can distort/gouge the edge. (Not a HUGE deal; just requires more RTV or other gap-filler when you re-assemble and it's more susceptible to leaks.)
4. Let the oil drain from clutch basket/housing area.
5. Loosen the clutch basket bolts on the round plate facing you. There are different setups/arrangements. Keep track of springs and other parts; i.e. assembly orientation.
6. Gently slide out the basket and plates. The replacement clutch plates typically alternate with the spacer plates.
7. SOAK your new plates for 15-20 minutes to ensure they are well-lubed, before they go into the assembly.
8. Reverse the disassembly procedure. Don't "gorilla" the bolts; use proper torque.
9. MAKE SURE the mating surface of the case/cover is clean, dry, oil free. It will save you cursing later. Use preferred gasket/RTV/sealant combo and gently tighten bolts to "snug" around clutch cover. If RTV or liquid sealant used, allow an hour to set, before properly torquing and dumping in CORRECT AMOUNT of engine oil. (3.9 L is not 4 quarts.)
10. Check for leaks.
11. As for cable, just "connect the dots." Adjust to preference.
Let us know how it goes. Good luck.
Drain engine oil.
1. Take out clutch cover bolts.
2. Gently knock around case with rubber mallet to loosen, if it doesn't fall off on its own.
3. Clean the mating surface of the case cover/case, if sealant was used. DO NOT use abrasive or (worse) a gasket scraper which can distort/gouge the edge. (Not a HUGE deal; just requires more RTV or other gap-filler when you re-assemble and it's more susceptible to leaks.)
4. Let the oil drain from clutch basket/housing area.
5. Loosen the clutch basket bolts on the round plate facing you. There are different setups/arrangements. Keep track of springs and other parts; i.e. assembly orientation.
6. Gently slide out the basket and plates. The replacement clutch plates typically alternate with the spacer plates.
7. SOAK your new plates for 15-20 minutes to ensure they are well-lubed, before they go into the assembly.
8. Reverse the disassembly procedure. Don't "gorilla" the bolts; use proper torque.
9. MAKE SURE the mating surface of the case/cover is clean, dry, oil free. It will save you cursing later. Use preferred gasket/RTV/sealant combo and gently tighten bolts to "snug" around clutch cover. If RTV or liquid sealant used, allow an hour to set, before properly torquing and dumping in CORRECT AMOUNT of engine oil. (3.9 L is not 4 quarts.)
10. Check for leaks.
11. As for cable, just "connect the dots." Adjust to preference.
Let us know how it goes. Good luck.
thankyou i much appreciate it.
and on the right side of the bike, down below where the oil goes into the casing of that part cracked. my brake went right threw it! and its on the right side? i already ordered that part it was a boysen clutch cover i matched it up to the part and it looked exactly the same and also same amount of bolts. just wondering if i ordered the correct part!
and on the right side of the bike, down below where the oil goes into the casing of that part cracked. my brake went right threw it! and its on the right side? i already ordered that part it was a boysen clutch cover i matched it up to the part and it looked exactly the same and also same amount of bolts. just wondering if i ordered the correct part!
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primo1
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Oct 24, 2006 06:29 PM




