ok.. in my own words for the most part, and very simple...

OH... do this in a cold motor...

preferred tools:
-metic sockets
-allen wrenches
-torque wrench
-rear stand
-metric feeler gauge set and caliper or micrometer
-paper and a writing utensil

ghetto tools:
-sockets that fit
-some allen wrenches
-I don't know how to ghetto a feeler gauge or mic!! maybe aluminum foil...
-sidewalk chalk or magic marker

universal tools:
-beer
-workin music
-people hangin out

parts:
-valve shims (if needed)
-kawasaki bond or similar sealing agent
-trigger coil gasket
-maybe cam chain guides

REMOVE:
[ul][*]tank and lower throttle side fairing[*]coolant overflow tank[*]trigger coil cover and valve cover [/ul]Position #1/#4 pisons at TDC, then rotate 360*

-position #4 to the end of the compression stroke at TDC

-using your feelers, you can measure the intake valve of #2, and #4, and the exhaust valve of #3 and #4

- now position #1 to the end of compression to TDC

-you can now check the intake valves of #1 and #3 and the exhaust valves of #1 and #2

thats all the valves now..

the STANDARD VALVE CLEARANCE (cold) is:

IN: .17-.25MM
EX: .22-.31MM



shim charts:

intake


exhaust


CAM REMOVAL
OK.. to remove the cams to replace the shims, theres alot of stupid **** involved. you may need to remove the carbs and such to access the tensioner and other components..


*to remove the cam chain tensioner..... (its spring loaded, so be careful to not let the main tension screw shoot out.)

-remove the main cap bold, washer and spring.
-remove tensioner unit. observe orientation!!!! its only supposed to go in one way, AND the tensioner is on a ratchet-type setup. it will lose adjustment when removed.. when you reinstall it, make sure its the whole way in first then the unit is bolted in... THEN put the spring, washer and cap bolt back in.

* line up the trigger coil by going to TDC on #1/#4 pistons use the casing mark and line it up with the "T" on the trigger coil rotor.

-remove the cam cap bolts in the reverse order of the pic below



-lift the cams straight out.. make sure you keep em separated so as to not mix the intake and exhaust ones up..

-I'd stuff a rag into the chain tunnel for those "free-spirited" parts that like to go places they shouldn't

-the buckets will pull straight out.. you might be able to use a magnet for this.. OR use pliers wtith a lil electrical tape on the jaws, or use soft-jaw pliers..

*the shims will probably be stuck to the inside of the bucket.. make sure they don't drop out into the chain tunnel and into the motor!! (if you didn't plug the tunnel up..)

-on reassembly, you don't have to use a reassembly lube, but i'd reccomend it..

using the "T" mark on the trigger coil will keep the crank at TDC
DO NOT try to use shim stock, or modify the shims, they're case hardened, and can fracture..


i can't really think of too much else to tell you.. its a straightforward job, and if theres something i missed, or you'd like to plastigauge the cams and need other specs, or whatever else, please hit me up!!

good luck and have fun!

torque specs:
valve cover bolts- 87 in.lbs
tensioner- 104 in.lbs
cam cap bolts- 104 in.lbs
[/align]

 

Nicely done wh!