Well, I've been gathering my stuff for a while now, but once the quiet core muffler insert came, I was ready to rock. I figured I'd do the entire job once, since the bike had to be disasembled anyway.

I followed the disasembly instructions on this site and they were excellent!!

http://www.hmfengineering.com/forums...ead.php?t=1617

Follow it line by line for carb mods / carb access and you won't be disapointed!!

Once I got the seat, srouds and gas tank off, my first job was to get rid of the smog crap (KCR Air Suction System).


after I got that bad boy off:


It was time to get the Carb out. following the above site's instructions, I detached the Carb TPS system at the connection:


I pulled the Carb breather lines out from the frame holder and un-coupled the throttle cables.

I also moved the rear break resivor out of the way so I had more room to work.


I was then able to undo the soft plastic boots from the air box and engine intake and pull the carb right up through the hole where the seat was.


This is what the Carb should look like with the proper tubes and wires attached when you take it out:


The first plug I did was on the carb, plugging the carb vacume port to the KCR Air Suction System.



Next I took off the float bowl and changed out the stock main jet (right) toa #130 and the pilot (center / inbedded) toa #40.


Once that was done, I replaced the float bowl, turned it over and quickly opened the slide housing, drilled the slide breather hole 7/64ths and tossed the slide in hot water to keep the diaphragm from expanding. I got the new needle ready, with the clip on the second notch with the collar.


I pulled the slide out of the hot water, dried it off, and put it back in the carb. then droped the needle (with clip and collar in place)into the slide (making sure it went into the main jet holder) and then put on the plastic spring holder, the spring and put the top back on. I did this quickly to avoid the diaphragm expanding. The hot water worked great, and it stayed the correct size.

Next I turned the carb back over (upside down again) and poped out the pilot adjustment screw cap by drilling it very carfully, then using a screw to pop it off:








Once the cap was off, I screwed the screw in all the way to see what it was set at. (1 full turn).

I then took out the screw and replaced it with the Kouba adjustable screw for easy adjustments once the carb is back on:




the Carb mods were now done, so it was time to finish the plugging job from the KCR Air Suction System and to get the carb back on the bike.

All I have to do now is put it all back together.......



I ended up leaving the entire piece of tubing from the KCR Air Suction System from where it attached to the exhaust manifold to where it had attached to thesensor. This way I figured I could put it back together if I had to for inspection. In the meantime, I simply used someone elses great suggestion and put a bolt and circle clamp on it so that it would be sealed but not melt like a cap might that close to the engine head:




I then just tethered it to the wire harness above so that it wouldnt rattle when I was riding.

Next I sealed up the vent holes in the air box, one with a cap outside (forthe KCR Air Suction System hole on top) and one with a cap inverted and pushed inside (for where the crankcase vent hose used to be) for both, I used a sealer to keep them air tight and in place.


I then had to re-route the crankcase vent to the top of the air box ala the "Nobrakes" method since that method allowed the crankcase to still get the air it needs (vs sealing it off) and also put the opening way up top, so short of full submersion, there should be very little water getting into the engine crankase!!


I ran a 5/8ths inner diameter tube up from the cankcase opening and put it aside for the time being soI could finalize the airbox filter and lid assembly. I was having the darndest time getting that air filter box to fit......


Man what a differnance the High Flow snorkel makes!! It lets so much more air in due to the much larger openings and much shorter distance that the air has to travel compaired to the stock snorkel...




Eventually I got that K&N air filter in!!


And with the lid attached again sporting the High Flow snorkel, I was ready to "Nobrakes route" the crankcase breather:





At first I routed it incorrectly accross the base of the frame where the seat clips in, I later had to change that position but was still able to stay up top!!




Next on the list (based on access still available!!) was completing the Carb breather "T" mod. This was very strait forward and I ended up using a Y connector from an Autozone store along with some windshild washer 5 mm tubing:




I routedthe secondary carb breather line

 

GREAT writeup!!!!

So you did all the mods at once.. hugh?? How long did it take you??

Ya know---you may want to consider a part time side thing installing KLX mods here in NJ.......

seeing how much trouble I had with a simple wheel.....I would definately think about paying someone....

I'm gonna do alot more reading, get all the parts together and perhaps one day soon attemp these mods...

I rode my buddies drz400 yesterday...and boy was I jealous of the power.....so if I could get a little something outta this baby, that would be awsome!!!!!

Again--Nice post......really makes me wanna try it all out!!!!!

 

Man, Dave! All the mods in one night AND a great write up to go with it. That was a lot of work!

Good job, Dave.

 

Great job on the post and pic's , i have the snorkel and jet kit ,just waiting for my sprocket to get hear,
i have one question ,do you have a part # for the small vent filter and the air screw, again job.

 

Im gladfolksfound these pics and the writeup useful, hopefully it will help make the mod process a bit easier. I used a TON of ideas and sites that others posted in this site and it made my "shopping list" and the work pretty straight forward!!

All up it took about 6 hours, so not too bad. I had read so much about what a bitch it is to get to the carb and other stuff so when my quiet core didnt come, and everything else was, I decided to do the marithon session and take the thing apart once. In hindsight (or when I have to do it again for my sons bike... ) I would again do it all in one session. I think the vast majority of the time was spent taking apart and putting back together the bike to get access to the carb, lines, smog stuff, crank case breather etc...

The air screw is "T handle" mixture screw from KoubaLink

If you use this site:
http://www.koubalink.com/fuelscrew.html

Just order the one for the KLX250 ( I don't think they have part numbers) Theowner is GREAT to work with and its a breeze to get. (yeah, there was NO WAY i was going to have to take all that appart for small adjustments to the fuel screw!!----SCREW THAT!!!)

I bought the Crankcase air filter at an Autozone store. You can also order them at:
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm

Either way you will have to buy an adaptor that will fit the 5/8th inner diameter hose and also the 1/2 - 3/8ths inch opening on the filter. I ended up using a simple brass hose connector from Lowes that had a 3/8th inch barbed end on one side (that went into the filter) and a 5/8ths threaded hose coupling on the other side. I just threaded that bad boy into the 5/8th inch hose and put on a circular clamp!!

 

And the award for the most pictures in an initialpost goes to........ Man that was awesome, very nice. I think I might just save that one. Thanks again.

 

Dirt surfer, you areda man! I don't know how you where able to free-up six straight hours of free time, but that in itselfshould be considereda major accomplishment. Congrats on completing your mods and nice photo album. That's a keeper!

 

Great Post! I was afraid of pulling out the carb to do it myself but you make it sound easy. I think I'll be doing my own work on the carb when I decide to get an exhaust.

Thanks for taking the time!

 

Good job, DS! [sm=icon_rock.gif]

When you have a great write-up like that, you hardly even notice what a b*tch it is to pull the carb!!!

 

Yeah man, after reading lots of posts, I was only going to do that once unless I really had to... I think the Kouba T screw will help alot with avoiding unecessary re-trys.... I sure hope so!!!!!