hi, i'm new here. actually signed on because of this issue:
i have a 1997 zx6r bought from a friend of friend for $300. was told it needed a wiring harness, short story is- 1 fuse, 1 ring terminal later( and a carb cleaning because it had been sitting for 4 years) and the bike runs like a champ !! then one morning- death-rattle !! spun a bearing. so, i have picked up another engine from a 2001 zx6r that was crashed. bolts right in no problem. used all my old electronics,etc. bike will not run/start. turns over-backfires sometimes, but cannot get it to fire up and run. can anyone please advise ?
yes, the cdi box is good/plugs/coils all good. getting plenty of fuel/spark yet will not run !!

 

you mean to tell me that NO ONE has any suggestions for me ?

 

Do you know the history on the 2001 6r engine? Are the valves too tight?

 

kind of, the bike only had 8000 miles on it before it was hit. the forks and front plastics were destroyed.tank was mangled but everything seemed to be untouched. i pulled the engine off the bike. the person i bought the engine from -bought the bike at a "police auction". so i'm guessing that the rider was pretty bad shape and they impounded the bike, and owner decided it was not worth getting back. or something close to that. i've determined that the issue has to do with the cdi ign. on the '97 and the tpi ign on the newer one. the cam rotors are completely different. can't just change them out because the newer engine's crank is splined and the '97 isn't. but that's only a guess.

 

ok, so it worked. she runs....... and runs quite well-i might add so, if you can get the cam rotor modified to resemble the older cdi rotor.... this swap works!! but it isn't at all easy to find someone willing to fabricate this part for you. luckily i've a very good friend i've known since high school ( 20+ years ) who happens to be the very best fabricator in town. having a mill and just about every other tool any machine shop would have helps. here are the pics......the top rotor is the cdi and the bottom rotor is the tpi that we "fixed". the bike is still under construction. i'll post some finished pics when it's all done.

 

Lucky... I went with the whole new wiring harness route...
Plus I don't have any fabricators around... extra suckage. I wonder if it would work for my baby too?
Interestingly enough, my 99 underwent a 00 swap in october too... :/




Bad IC Igniter? : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

 

well, i believe that it would have worked. if you had the 99 wire harness still. however, since you went with the new harness(and that option is probably the better of the two) i don't believe it would work. the problem is the ignition type. As well as the crankshaft. the older model uses a CDI ignition and the crankshaft end is "keyed" for the ignition rotor. This limits your ability to adjust the ignition timing and the CDI system uses two coils that fire to two cylinders each. that leaves a small "window" for the "fire" signal. The newer model uses a TPI ignition which allows for different things like :throttle position sensor, RPM limiter, and uses "stick" coils. These are actually plug wires with an ignition coil built into each wire. so each plug has it's own coil. and the crankshaft on the newer model is splined at the end for the ignition rotor. that gives you the ability to advance or retard the timing much easier. all-in-all YOU went the SMARTER, & most likely BETTER route.is she done ? how does she run

 

I guess;
She runs all right, have yet to take her out for a test ride- she's got one cylinder she's missing pretty badly, She didn't warm up well, the old gage cluster works intermittantly, and if so, only the oil/start up light come on, so I ordered a used one... that should be in this week.

My only other problem is the carbs- I kept my old carbs since new-used ones are so expensive, but I can't find anything for the solenoid plugs to get picked up by, it's like they completely eliminated them. Can't find them in photos of the 00 carb, or in the OEM map work, or in the service manual in either engine or electrical categories... So the carbs aren't responding to the throttle and opening up like they should.
Thinking maybe find a hot wire and attach them there, but if it's all run through the throttle sensor- that might be the better location to splice in the solenoids... What do you think?

 

i'm pretty sure that the ignition box controls all that. you went with the newer ignition system, right ? and as much as you don't want to hear this.... you are probably going to have to use a set of carbs from the newer style bike : ( pretty much everything except the frame/swingarm and forks (well, anything electronic) should be from the newer style bike. and as far as your gauges go, mine don't work either. my speedometer works, and my oil & neutral lights work. but no tach and the temp sensor is either bad or the gauge doesn't work the same. i'm thinking (hoping) it's only the sending unit. but won't know for sure until the new one comes in special delivery.what's the history on the engine you bought ?? a miss might be head gasket leaking, or even a crack somewhere. was the engine from a wrecked bike or ??

 

That's what I was afraid of, My gauges still haven't gotten here, so I guess I'll be waiting on that for next week.

As far as I can remember, the bike was being parted out by a salvage yard with either 13,xxx miles or 8xxx miles (can't remember which), good running condition when removed. Bought it from Riderparts.com - never had a bad deal with them so far, and I think they have to sell good condition parts unless otherwise noted in the asking.

Hairline cracking is possible too... guess I'll be looking today when I service the valves. Valve cover's got great vacuum- hard to get the thing off; so I don't think a crack is really the problem. I was doing forum crawling earlier this week and noted several saying a bad miss could be due to the valves way way off: figure I'll see how she runs after the adjustment and go from there- if it's still bad, at least the valves'll be in clearance. I haven't adjusted the timing yet either (looks in time though) but will be after the valves. maybe it'll clear it up.

Well I got the new IC igniter since the plugs on the igniter are differently shaped- so it's most likely the gauges. I managed to ****** mine for $35 from a $75obo on ebay. They certainly want their money's worth for their carbs though.
If that's the case for you on your gauges- what are you going to do? splice the plugs? Otherwise I think you might be doing a harness too.... :/
Did you get your headlight to work? the new harness added some extra wire compared to my plug for the old light- doesn't light up for nothing, tail-light I already bought as integrated so it works still (tG), rear blinkers don't.

I figured I might need to get a new carb. just wishful thinking I wouldn't.
We'll see what quotes I get from the salvage yard