noob yay!
#11
09-26-2008, 09:13 AM
Air box is critical on 2-strokes. Less so on 4-strokes, but still offers advantages over pod filters for near stock motors.
To drop the forks, it's easiest if you remove the lower fairings and put an adjustable jack under the front of the motor - careful not to put it where anything will get crushed. REar of the bike on a paddock stand..
Remove the two top inner fairing panels to improve access (2 allen scrrews each) and loosen the pinch bolts on the yolks. One pinch bolt each side on the top yolk, two on the lower.
Use the jack to slowly lower the front of the bike. As you do the fork tubes will start to push out of the top yolk. When both tubes are protruding by the required amount - you may ned a push here and there to get them both level - re-tighten the pinch bolts. Job done. Then refit the faring panels. It only takes about 15 minutes.
Two minor engine mods may be worthwhile. One is to use a bit of rubber tubing to ling the vac pints on the TBs which are used for synching the TBs. This equalises intake pressure at low revs and is claimed to improve smoothness and flexibility at in-town traffic speeds. I'll do this the next time I lift the tank.
The other is to remove the sub-throttle plates. This gives no increase in power, but does give sharper throttle response at the expense of making the bike harder to control on wet or slippery roads, or in heavy traffic. I won't do this myself.
Because of the open loop EFI on US bikes, fitting a slip on may require a power commander to re-map the injectors. Slip ons also usually require the pair valves plugging to minimise popping in the exhaust - the pair valve pushes air into the pipe to burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust. There is scope to make the stock airbox less restrictive. Otherwise it's the usual suspects of cams and bigger or bored out TBs.
Some riders have issues with the suspension and spend a lot on aftermarket shocks, complete new front ends, and the rest. I find it fine. A cheapish and effective upgrade is to fit cartridge emulators to the forks and a stiffer spring to the stock rear shock. Braided brake lines are another common mod. The idea is that they improve the feel of the brakes by preventing the lines bulging under pressure. 20 years ago this was a seriously useful thing to do, but modern hoses with kevlar inners don't bulge, so it's only really a cosmetic mod.
Be aware that folk law and perception can leave you feeling that you've made improvements when there's actually nothing that you can measure, so think before you spend.
Basically, like I said, if I want a faster bike I'll buy one. All the mods in the world won't make it as fast as a 600cc I4 so there's no real point in trying, but it's a much better all round road bike and I can acrtually get better journey times than I can on a lot of super sports.
Rob
To drop the forks, it's easiest if you remove the lower fairings and put an adjustable jack under the front of the motor - careful not to put it where anything will get crushed. REar of the bike on a paddock stand..
Remove the two top inner fairing panels to improve access (2 allen scrrews each) and loosen the pinch bolts on the yolks. One pinch bolt each side on the top yolk, two on the lower.
Use the jack to slowly lower the front of the bike. As you do the fork tubes will start to push out of the top yolk. When both tubes are protruding by the required amount - you may ned a push here and there to get them both level - re-tighten the pinch bolts. Job done. Then refit the faring panels. It only takes about 15 minutes.
Two minor engine mods may be worthwhile. One is to use a bit of rubber tubing to ling the vac pints on the TBs which are used for synching the TBs. This equalises intake pressure at low revs and is claimed to improve smoothness and flexibility at in-town traffic speeds. I'll do this the next time I lift the tank.
The other is to remove the sub-throttle plates. This gives no increase in power, but does give sharper throttle response at the expense of making the bike harder to control on wet or slippery roads, or in heavy traffic. I won't do this myself.
Because of the open loop EFI on US bikes, fitting a slip on may require a power commander to re-map the injectors. Slip ons also usually require the pair valves plugging to minimise popping in the exhaust - the pair valve pushes air into the pipe to burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust. There is scope to make the stock airbox less restrictive. Otherwise it's the usual suspects of cams and bigger or bored out TBs.
Some riders have issues with the suspension and spend a lot on aftermarket shocks, complete new front ends, and the rest. I find it fine. A cheapish and effective upgrade is to fit cartridge emulators to the forks and a stiffer spring to the stock rear shock. Braided brake lines are another common mod. The idea is that they improve the feel of the brakes by preventing the lines bulging under pressure. 20 years ago this was a seriously useful thing to do, but modern hoses with kevlar inners don't bulge, so it's only really a cosmetic mod.
Be aware that folk law and perception can leave you feeling that you've made improvements when there's actually nothing that you can measure, so think before you spend.
Basically, like I said, if I want a faster bike I'll buy one. All the mods in the world won't make it as fast as a 600cc I4 so there's no real point in trying, but it's a much better all round road bike and I can acrtually get better journey times than I can on a lot of super sports.
Rob
#12
10-10-2008, 07:46 AM
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
Posts: 2,092
#13
10-17-2008, 04:54 AM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, Mich
Posts: 18
Air box is critical on 2-strokes. Less so on 4-strokes, but still offers advantages over pod filters for near stock motors.
To drop the forks, it's easiest if you remove the lower fairings and put an adjustable jack under the front of the motor - careful not to put it where anything will get crushed. REar of the bike on a paddock stand..
Remove the two top inner fairing panels to improve access (2 allen scrrews each) and loosen the pinch bolts on the yolks. One pinch bolt each side on the top yolk, two on the lower.
Use the jack to slowly lower the front of the bike. As you do the fork tubes will start to push out of the top yolk. When both tubes are protruding by the required amount - you may ned a push here and there to get them both level - re-tighten the pinch bolts. Job done. Then refit the faring panels. It only takes about 15 minutes.
Two minor engine mods may be worthwhile. One is to use a bit of rubber tubing to link the vac pints on the TBs which are used for synching the TBs. This equalises intake pressure at low revs and is claimed to improve smoothness and flexibility at in-town traffic speeds. I'll do this the next time I lift the tank.
The other is to remove the sub-throttle plates. This gives no increase in power, but does give sharper throttle response at the expense of making the bike harder to control on wet or slippery roads, or in heavy traffic. I won't do this myself.
Because of the open loop EFI on US bikes, fitting a slip on may require a power commander to re-map the injectors. Slip ons also usually require the pair valves plugging to minimise popping in the exhaust - the pair valve pushes air into the pipe to burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust. There is scope to make the stock airbox less restrictive. Otherwise it's the usual suspects of cams and bigger or bored out TBs.
Rob
To drop the forks, it's easiest if you remove the lower fairings and put an adjustable jack under the front of the motor - careful not to put it where anything will get crushed. REar of the bike on a paddock stand..
Remove the two top inner fairing panels to improve access (2 allen scrrews each) and loosen the pinch bolts on the yolks. One pinch bolt each side on the top yolk, two on the lower.
Use the jack to slowly lower the front of the bike. As you do the fork tubes will start to push out of the top yolk. When both tubes are protruding by the required amount - you may ned a push here and there to get them both level - re-tighten the pinch bolts. Job done. Then refit the faring panels. It only takes about 15 minutes.
Two minor engine mods may be worthwhile. One is to use a bit of rubber tubing to link the vac pints on the TBs which are used for synching the TBs. This equalises intake pressure at low revs and is claimed to improve smoothness and flexibility at in-town traffic speeds. I'll do this the next time I lift the tank.
The other is to remove the sub-throttle plates. This gives no increase in power, but does give sharper throttle response at the expense of making the bike harder to control on wet or slippery roads, or in heavy traffic. I won't do this myself.
Because of the open loop EFI on US bikes, fitting a slip on may require a power commander to re-map the injectors. Slip ons also usually require the pair valves plugging to minimise popping in the exhaust - the pair valve pushes air into the pipe to burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust. There is scope to make the stock airbox less restrictive. Otherwise it's the usual suspects of cams and bigger or bored out TBs.
Rob
b) about the syncing intake pressure, did you look at the exhaust on a Versys? It has a little H pipe in it, and I wonder if this would have a similar effect. I know it won't make it super fast, but a little extra kick is always appreciated, unless it's raining.
I agree with you on the sub-throttle plates. They're staying.c) What do you mean by "There is scope to make the stock airbox less restrictive"? Any improvements from a performance replacement (not a pod) air filter?
too bad there's no way to keep the bike looking stock and adapting the ninja 600 ram air system to the er6/650r. I guess if I wanted to cut it up under the headlight
... but i really don't want to do that.
#14
10-17-2008, 05:26 AM
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
Posts: 2,092
i'll do an in-depth on fork seals if thers a demand for it here. i do em all day. EASY job. i think i did one on kawispeed.com i could just link or copy/paste tho..
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