I just bought a 2012 KLX 250s and it's my very first bike. I want to replace the tail light and turn signals with something smaller (DRC Edge), but it seems that I will have to remove the seat in order to remove the plastic over the bolts. Could anyone with more experience help me out? Looks like I have to remove the plastic on both sides of the bike to get the seat to come off. Any suggestions or directions? Thanks in advance.

 

This is probably one of the best sites for the KLX250 for sure, Planet KLX is good too as is Thumper Talk, but there is the Dual sport KLX250 folder here that is just the best. So welcome to the discussion, look up the KLX250 folder and have at it.

IF you have some mechanical skillsthings like that are not too tough, just start unbolting, while watching what comes out of where. Then remember too, if something doesn't want to come off or go back on fairly easy, look again to make sure all fasteners are out, that any tabs are coming apart or going together correctly. Excess force makes for broken parts. This stuff is small compared to cars, go easy, read the manual, use the proper tools. If you damage a bolt or nut, throw it away, go to a bike shop or some place like Ace Hardware and get a proper replacement. Most are common metrics, some are special fasteners that need to come from the manufacturer. Don't substitute junk. Don't use SAE thread when you need metric. Hex and allen head fasteners are better than Phillips style. The Japanese phillips heads are different than the SAE and strip easily. Again find a well supplied hardware store and use it when needed, it's surprising how inexpensive nuts and bolts are in comparison to the frustration of worn/damaged ones.

Get some metric tools for sure, don't even bother trying english (inch) type, you'll just ruin stuff. If you don't have any yet, look for a good deal on full sets through Sears or the like, even Harbor Freight has decent stuff to start. You can tell good quality just by looking at the stamping/broaching work - on cheap wrenches and sockets the hex is sunken down, on good ones the hex flats are closer to the surface. That is important, the flats grip the fastener head, the deeper cuts will slip off and ruin the heads easier. Look at top grade and cheap, you'll see what I mean.

If it was me, I'd get a motorcycle or hot rod magazine find the Harbor Freight ad and buy stuff there. The sockets are so-so, but most all else is totally serviceable for the average guy and the prices right.

You're looking for a good set of useful tools:

• Sockets and wrenches 8mm-19mm (16 and 18 are a waste since motorcycles do not use those sizes)
• Metric allen wrench set, T handles are nice
• Crasftsman or better screw drivers, small set is fine
• Plastic dead blow mallet
• Regular, needle nose, and channel lock style pliers
• Small side cuts - usually in pliers sets
• Zip ties always handy, 1/4" wide
• Two ways to deal with big sockets - Buy a set of 1/2" drive sockets or measure the axle heads and buy only the sockets needed
• 1/2 breaker bar from Harbor frieght.
• Can or tube of wheel bearing grease, small is fine. You should always grease axles when you have the wheels off of a bike. Keeps them from seizing in place.

I'm sure others will add and contribute, but these are generally the necessary stuff to do needed work.

Get some chain lube, WD40, and read up on stuff doing searches when you have questions. The motorcycle media are usually trustworthy, on the internet when taking information from individuals (like me) you need to read a lot, see what gets some back up by others and be wary of making snap decisions.

Do some serious reading and learning about even things as simple as cleaning.

One thing - I don't care how dirty the bike gets, you do NOT pressure wash. It just blows soapy water into bearings, wiring connectors, the chain, and numerous other places, displacing grease and oil, leaving a clean bike and bearings/chain starting to rust. Recently either Motorcyclist or Cycle World did an article on chain care. Last line was pretty much saying a bit of dirt on the chain is better than a clean chain with the O-rings ruined or water blown past the O-rings into the links, pushing the lube out the other side.

Most cleaning I do on my bike is done with spray cleaner and a rag. I may wash the bike with a rag and brushes to get off some of the general dirt, but I don't do hard spray on any mechanical parts.

Here is a PDF for the later model KLX250 and D-tracker. Download it, print it, and put it in a notebook. You can use it on a computer, but dirt and crap on your hands... I'd do the print copy.

Hope this helps a bit. Let's get you off on a good start. I remember how bad I was with my first bike, being an 18 year old without much clue.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write a reply @Klx678. I will keep in mind what you said, print out the PDF file, look for a good set of metric tools and start learning.

 

as mentioned by klx678, welcome to the forum and good fortune. there is a lot to read in the klx section.