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  #21  
Old 08-22-2015, 05:44 PM
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Okay man. Not to keep bugging you on a saturday. But how would you do a leak down test? I know what a compression test is.
 
  #22  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:27 PM
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No issue. Was just out taking care of some farm needs.
A leak down test is a great tool to understand your engine. Youtube and internet is a great resource. and here as well I may add. lol

The same adapters are used, but you use compressed air and inject the cylinders with air or Nitrogen. You watch the gauges to see any leakage. generally, a leaky valve question is answered using this method, although rings can also be troubleshot using this method. The oil on the rings as mentioned above will rule that issue/concern out for that troubleshoot.

The leak down method is my preferred method over compression testing for troubleshooting or testing even though compression tests do have their place.
 
  #23  
Old 08-22-2015, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragone#19
No issue. Was just out taking care of some farm needs.
A leak down test is a great tool to understand your engine. Youtube and internet is a great resource. and here as well I may add. lol

The same adapters are used, but you use compressed air and inject the cylinders with air or Nitrogen. You watch the gauges to see any leakage. generally, a leaky valve question is answered using this method, although rings can also be troubleshot using this method. The oil on the rings as mentioned above will rule that issue/concern out for that troubleshoot.

The leak down method is my preferred method over compression testing for troubleshooting or testing even though compression tests do have their place.
Okay man. Thanks for the info. I will keep yall updated on how it goes. U would know what type of oil I should use?
 
  #24  
Old 08-22-2015, 08:17 PM
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I only run amsoil for long term. The other oils as you know are everywhere.
 
  #25  
Old 08-22-2015, 08:27 PM
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Alright man thanks. I ordered a repair manual,so I can have it to refer to. Will the indent on the valve float be something you can see with your eyes? And what would you suggest to clean the carbs?
 
  #26  
Old 08-23-2015, 12:59 AM
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I disassemble the carbs, soak them in a carb cleaner overnight, then use compressed air to blow them out.

You can see or feel a ring/indent normally on the valve. edit: on a worn valve that is
 
  #27  
Old 08-23-2015, 01:01 AM
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Thanks for your input man. I checked the rubbers on them and they do seem a bit wore. So I will be replacing. This is an awesome forum. Thanks for the help guys.
 
  #28  
Old 08-29-2015, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Do you feel comfortable doing mechanical work? Do you have any friends or acquaintances who are motorcycle enthusiasts and who know how to work on them? Any decent motorcycle oil should be good to start with. I use Shell Rotella T 15-40 (which is actually made for diesel trucks, but is quite widely used in the motorcycle world). It's inexpensive so I change it often. Inspect and smell the used oil coming out. Is it old and contaminated? Smell like gasoline?

See if you can find the service manual for your bike, or a similar model, online. That should help. Look around youtube for motorcycle carburetor cleaning instructions. There is literally a plethora of good stuff on youtube. Do you have the tools and know how to do a compression test? Look that up too. How is the gas? Fresh? Stink terribly? Is it full or near empty? Remove the gas tank, swish it around and dump it into a bucket to look for rust flakes and other crud. Shine a flashlight in and inspect it. How are the rubber components (fuel lines, vent lines, carburetor boots)? Replace anything cracked and old.
Okay guys got another question. I got oil in filter replaced and float needle replaced and now I seem to be having a problem adjusting my float heigh? Kawasaki says 14mm but in order for it to be 14mm the floats will pushed against the top of the carbs? Is this right
 
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