Write up on how to fit after market bars (pro taper) to KLX250S
#1
11-10-2014, 11:55 AM
Write up on how to fit after market bars (pro taper) to KLX250S
I have just fitted my new 7/8's Pro Taper bars and 20MM bar risers. I have read that you need to put longer cables on but i have not needed to for some reason. I might even fit my 30MM bar risers.
Anyway here is a little write up of fitting just the bars (not spacers) just so if anyone in the future has issues they can try to use this as reference, some pics were taken after i instaled everything.
1- Order bars, 7/8's diameter. I bought Pro Taper - Tucker Rocky SE YZ high bars in dark grey, Cost £35 new off of eBay.
Removing old bars;
2- slacken off the 4 bar clamp bolts (14mm Socket)
2- Remove throttle side controls.
Totally remove the 2 bolts that hold on the brake lever (8mm socket) (tip-refit bolts and clamp into lever body off the bike so you dont loose bits), Use a screwdriver to unscrew the 2 bolts holding on the throttle body.
3- slide the bars to the left and pull off throttle body, might be easier to totally unbolt throttle body so its i 2 pieces,
4- Remove clutch side controls.
Unbolt the 1 clutch lever bolt (10MM socket). Use a screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws holding on the switch body but only enough to move it to the right to gain access to the grip.
This time you will need to remove the grip which can be hard but if you spray a little carb clean down the inside of the grip it should come straight off.
5- Slide the bars to the right and now you can totally unbolt throttle body so its in 2 pieces, then pull off the clutch lever.
6- Totally remove the 4 bar clamp bolts and remove bars.
Fitting new bars;
7- unbolt one of the brace bolt, loosen the other and lift the brace bar out of the way.
8- Place new bars in the lower bar clamp and loosely bolt on the top bar clamp and move the bars to the right of the clamps to make it easier to put the clutch lever on.
Start refitting the clutch side 1st,
9- This is the bit i had to use a little ingenuity as the rough pattern grip area on the bar is a little raised and you cant side the clutch lever back on.
What i did was
: totally remove the bolt and washer from the clutch lever.
: I then put just the bolt back in the the back side of the clamp.
: When the bolt started to come through the threaded end of the clamp i used the original wash to jam in between the two sides of the clamp.
: I then turned the bolt 6 times opening up the gap and making it very easy to slide onto the new bars. Once its on the smooth part of the bars remove the bolt and washer and fit in the proper way around.
10- Both the switch housings stay in place via a lump on the insides of the bodies that goes into 2 holes on the original bars. I was never going to drill my new bars so i had to remove the little bumps.
So open up both the switch bodies and grind off the lumps (2 lumps in total), i used a dremil.
Lump
Grinded lump
You know you have removed enough if you offer the body onto the bar and it fits without rocking on the lump, you can also look down the body this way to see,
11- Refit the grip, i used wire to hold it in place properly, like you do with MX grips.
12- As the lumps are no longer there to hold the switch biddies in place they will move around very easily on the bars when bolted back on.
To stop this you will need to wrap some duct tape around the bar where the bodies will bolt on. I wrapped it around 1 and a half times.
13- Loosely screw the clutch side switch body on over the duct tape.
14- Move the bars to the right in the bolt clamps,
15- Slide the throttle body back on and screw on switch controls over duck tape.
16- Bolt on the brake lever
17- Slightly tighten up the bar mount bolts so you can move them a little but they stay in place when you let go. Centre the bars and put them to the position you want them and tighten up the 4 (14MM socket) bolts.
18- lower the brace back down and refit the bolt and tighten up the other one.
19- Get the levers to the angle you want to tighten up the bolts. (clutch side 10MM socket, throttle side 8MM socket)
20- Tighten up the screw holding on each switch body.
21- Double check to make sure all bolts are tight and that your cables are not too tightly pulled. If they are you will need longer cables.
22- ride and enjoy with your new shinny stronger bars fitted
Anyway here is a little write up of fitting just the bars (not spacers) just so if anyone in the future has issues they can try to use this as reference, some pics were taken after i instaled everything.
1- Order bars, 7/8's diameter. I bought Pro Taper - Tucker Rocky SE YZ high bars in dark grey, Cost £35 new off of eBay.
Removing old bars;
2- slacken off the 4 bar clamp bolts (14mm Socket)
2- Remove throttle side controls.
Totally remove the 2 bolts that hold on the brake lever (8mm socket) (tip-refit bolts and clamp into lever body off the bike so you dont loose bits), Use a screwdriver to unscrew the 2 bolts holding on the throttle body.
3- slide the bars to the left and pull off throttle body, might be easier to totally unbolt throttle body so its i 2 pieces,
4- Remove clutch side controls.
Unbolt the 1 clutch lever bolt (10MM socket). Use a screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws holding on the switch body but only enough to move it to the right to gain access to the grip.
This time you will need to remove the grip which can be hard but if you spray a little carb clean down the inside of the grip it should come straight off.
5- Slide the bars to the right and now you can totally unbolt throttle body so its in 2 pieces, then pull off the clutch lever.
6- Totally remove the 4 bar clamp bolts and remove bars.
Fitting new bars;
7- unbolt one of the brace bolt, loosen the other and lift the brace bar out of the way.
8- Place new bars in the lower bar clamp and loosely bolt on the top bar clamp and move the bars to the right of the clamps to make it easier to put the clutch lever on.
Start refitting the clutch side 1st,
9- This is the bit i had to use a little ingenuity as the rough pattern grip area on the bar is a little raised and you cant side the clutch lever back on.
What i did was
: totally remove the bolt and washer from the clutch lever.
: I then put just the bolt back in the the back side of the clamp.
: When the bolt started to come through the threaded end of the clamp i used the original wash to jam in between the two sides of the clamp.
: I then turned the bolt 6 times opening up the gap and making it very easy to slide onto the new bars. Once its on the smooth part of the bars remove the bolt and washer and fit in the proper way around.
10- Both the switch housings stay in place via a lump on the insides of the bodies that goes into 2 holes on the original bars. I was never going to drill my new bars so i had to remove the little bumps.
So open up both the switch bodies and grind off the lumps (2 lumps in total), i used a dremil.
Lump
Grinded lump
You know you have removed enough if you offer the body onto the bar and it fits without rocking on the lump, you can also look down the body this way to see,
11- Refit the grip, i used wire to hold it in place properly, like you do with MX grips.
12- As the lumps are no longer there to hold the switch biddies in place they will move around very easily on the bars when bolted back on.
To stop this you will need to wrap some duct tape around the bar where the bodies will bolt on. I wrapped it around 1 and a half times.
13- Loosely screw the clutch side switch body on over the duct tape.
14- Move the bars to the right in the bolt clamps,
15- Slide the throttle body back on and screw on switch controls over duck tape.
16- Bolt on the brake lever
17- Slightly tighten up the bar mount bolts so you can move them a little but they stay in place when you let go. Centre the bars and put them to the position you want them and tighten up the 4 (14MM socket) bolts.
18- lower the brace back down and refit the bolt and tighten up the other one.
19- Get the levers to the angle you want to tighten up the bolts. (clutch side 10MM socket, throttle side 8MM socket)
20- Tighten up the screw holding on each switch body.
21- Double check to make sure all bolts are tight and that your cables are not too tightly pulled. If they are you will need longer cables.
22- ride and enjoy with your new shinny stronger bars fitted
Last edited by will-dakar; 11-10-2014 at 12:55 PM.
#3
11-15-2014, 02:56 PM
Did you happen to weigh both sets of bars to see how much, if any, weight savings? I'm assuming the stockers are steel.
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