Vague title I know. When turning at slow speeds, less than 10mph, I feel "resistance", like the bike not wanting to turn. If I lean it over more it keeps resistance until it just all of a sudden feels like it wants to "fall" in the turn real fast. This are just feelings of how the bike is handling, I'm not actually pushing the bike hard into the turn nor is it actually falling, I just want to describe how it feels. This just started today. The bike has always been real easy to maneuver at all speeds and I drive it daily so I know how it handles and feels.

I check the front wheel and it's aligned properly. No free play that I could tell in the front or rear wheel bearings. I recently (2 weeks ago) aligned the back wheel after adjusting chain tension. I set the chain to within manual spec but towards the tight end. I "aligned" the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt from the casting where it screws into until the end of the nut, measuring to have both sides the same.

I haven't moved the suspension settings in months. It's an SF but I run the S settings in the manual as they are softer and roads here at pitiful.

Checked air pressure, it was fine on both tires.

What else should I check or recheck?

cheers

 

Am I taking from your description that this started at the time of the chain adjustment? On your measurement of the chain adjuster to "center" your wheel, you might be better served to measure from the swingarm front pivot bolt center to the rear axle bolt center. That would be true "equidistance".

How are your head bearings in the steering stem for the fork as far as tightness and/or lubrication?

Do your tires have any unusual wear pattern?

On your chain adjustment, try unbolting the dog bones on the linkage. Use a bottle jack or such to find the tightest spot on your chain where the the front swingarm pivot and rear axle are at their farthest point. Tighten your axle at this point to where there's the tiniest bit of slack. Now reattach the linkage and see what your chain slack is at that point. That is your true, absolute chain slack adjustment regardless of what the manual says.

 

TNC, it only just started yesterday, 2 weeks after the adjustment. Last time I tried to measure from the swingarm pivot to the rear axle I couldn't get a clear line for the tape measure, the frame is in the way. Is there a way to do it?

I haven't checked the headbearings. I sprayed some lube on the outside of them yesterday and the strange feeling seems to have lessened a bit today maybe. How do I check them?

Tires are worn evenly side to side. The front are a bit cupped, have been for a while but not too much. The rears are wearing more in the center than sides, but also not to much. I'll get a picture of them.

I'll recheck the chain slack as you say.

I'm leaning towards head bearings but I'll check everything again. Thanks!

 

How many miles on the bike, and how many were trail miles?
I got about 5ooo-2000 on mine before the head bearings were shot. Rocky trails destroy headsets. It comes on quick once they are done.
Symtoms are the steering feels stuck straight, sluggish, resistance to turning while riding. Sitting in the garage, everything feels fine, but it isn't.

 

On board with TNC on the chain thing. Better loose than too tight. Too tight can cause bearing issues and definitely faster wear on chain/sprockets. I didn't remove linkage, I compressed the suspension with a tie down over the seat. The play in the chain when checked properly is definitely more than one would expect, but should be the ticket.

I adjust using a tape measure with the end of the tape at the pivot center reading back to the axle. I don't remember any problem with this, the tip on the tape moves it about 1/2" away from the pivot.

As for your turn in issue all I have would be tire inflation, bad tread cupping, and maybe the head set bearings.

 

I take it the bearings are ball style, rollers usually don't have a problem. We used to call it "self centering forks" when in sales. Check the bikes on the center stand and there's definitely a "detent" in the center, due to brinnelling of the races - denting of the race by the bearing ball caused by impact.

That can cause the issue described, you have to get the bearing out of the dent - the force - then suddenly it will want to fall in - the bearing now turning freely.

 

Sure sounds like steering head bearings. Mine went after 5k. Felt like I was going to wreck every time I made even a slow turn.

 

Bike has 15k miles, half of those with me. maybe 50 trail miles only but the streets here are as bad as rocky trails, no kidding. Very jarring to drive in most streets so I run with 22 psi only and use the S suspension settings as they are softer.

I'll recheck the rear wheel alignment and chain. If these are fine then, the more I read and comments from here make me think it's gonna be the head bearings. What you guys are describing are the exact symptoms I have.

I see a lot have just cleaned and repacked but it might be better to just replace them with all the work to even get to them. Unless I need to invest in special tools although youtube shows videos of them being removed with no special tools. Thoughts for or against replacing them?

thanks for the comments guys, I'll post what I find.

 

I am thinking head bearings too. Once my buddy powerwashed his KDX250 and when he brought it out again it was just about imposable to ride. The head bearings had no grease and made the steering slightly snug. We cleaned the bearings and repacked them. Good as new again!

 

I'm pretty sure, without checking, that the steering bearings in the KLX are tapered units top and bottom. This is about the best design you can get from a mass produced bike. Most motorcycle manufacturers of products sold in the U.S. went away from ball bearings years ago...at least on most larger, adult sized bikes.