We all know our bikes are anemic with power. I just rode my neighbor's 15yo daughter's used '12 crf100 and it ripped. I had a blast. Blipping the throttle in 2nd or even 3rd gear and the front would lift slightly. It pulled on my arms. The engine revved up very quickly. The bike was stock.

My bike is jetted, piped, with the airbox lid off with a 13T CS. I'm no motorhead. However, I think my modded 250cc bike should have more snap than a little 100cc 4 stroke with a 30inch seat height and drum brakes. What is causing our bikes to have such little snap. Is it the gearing? Is it the heavy flywheel? Is it the cam timing? Is it the ignition? Is it the fly by vacuum?

I should have test rode my bike before I bought it. There was a pop-up thunderstorm when I went to view it, so I couldn't. OOh well..I'll try the MCM, maybe big bore with pumper carb eventually, and I'll wait to see what klxster finds out during his latest project.

 

We get the point, but come on now-- a properly jetted and piped 250s is not that bad-- I moved from a jetted, baffle-less CRF150f to the 250s and I understand where your coming from, on a stock 250, but even on mine which I am having problems with currently and have the stock gearing, its much quicker than the 150.

The 150 is fun, without a doubt-- but its geared about half of what the 250s is. The feel is deceiving. The gearing and gear spacing makes a huge difference in how the bikes feel.

My Mojaves have an older version of the KLX engine and about 90 extra pounds on the KLX and they still feel snappier-- its due to the gearing. A -1 CS sprocket is not enough to give you the dirt bike feel you are looking for.

The MCM may help though, curious to hear your review.

 

What gears were on the 100?

 

Your next move is the MCM. You'll be very happy with it.. It's actually very easy to do, just pull the top cover, the cam tensioner, set 'er to TDC, change one cam gear at a time, pull the spring off the KACR, put the top cover back on, reset the tensioner and put it back on, spin 'er over by hand with the rear tire, if ok then spin 'er over with the starter, if ok then put in the plug and start to idle, if ok then rev 'er a little, if ok then duct tape your hands to the handlebars cause MCM+DJ140/2N+Q4 will pull em outta yer hands.. With the 13T spraughkit, I can only imagine the g's u gonna pull..

I guarantee it, I'll stake your reputation on it..

 

CRF is not only geared lower, it is far lighter, and has direct cable control of the carburetor slide - no CV lag, virtually instant response.

Put an appropriate CV carb, gear for 80 mph top speed, add the battery and other street legal crap and that CRF will lose a whole lot of snap.

 

There is virtually no way you are going to get a snap accel with a CV carb.

 

At least not the snap you get from a direct cable/slide carb set up.

 

Beyond "far" lighter, it's barely more than half - 75 kg compared to 135 kg.

Being 5 inches lower probably increased your sense of rush too....

But seriously, one of the things that makes the KLX250 so popular with riders here in Borneo is that the power delivery is smooth and consistent, which gives great traction for getting up muddy slopes.

The (very) few here than can afford KTM 250, 350 and 450 bikes invariably put them up for sale soon after. Put it this way, there's only one really good off-road bike mechanic around here, the KTMs are very rare beasts, and that guy has 3 second hand ones available at his shop...

Why? Because the riders are constantly falling.

Partly as the bikes are too high for the locals, but even with lowering kits or taller riders, for every 1 spill on a little KLX150 or KLX250, the KTM will have gone down around 5 or 6 times, seriously.

The most common cause of falling is the sudden loss of traction/grip upon cracking open the throttle. You hear a loud "BRRAP!!" and plop, down they go, again.

In fact even when you're riding behind the little KLX150 you'll notice that as they accelerate they are actually chewing up the ground. The rider doesn't notice but the tire tracks reveal for every crack of throttle, the rear wheel is actually spinning a tiny bit over sand and mud.

The bigger and heavier the bike, the more that will occur, so it's actually a good thing that the KLX250 delivers its power so smooth and softly - because that's exactly what a skillful rider would be trying to do 95% of the time.

The KLX is based around racing know-how but it's not a racer, it's more of a "Get you there and back" bike.

 

I don't think I buy this. I don't think the same rider would fall 500% more on the same trail if he/she was on a KTM.

I am very interested in the MCM, but I wouldn't attempt it on my own without a decent video to reference. This mod is beyond my capabilities to follow written instructions. I can't find a video of this mod, so I'll probably end up taking the bike to a custom shop to have it done. And if I'm still not content, I'll probably go with the pumper Carb.

I was in tight and twisty single track last weekend and encountered several logs around blind turns. I'd like to be able to use TRQ to get over a log instead of strength. I'm 140lbs and not very strong!

I don't expect my bike to be something it's not, I just want to use more of her potential.

 

I love my KLX, but she is on around town, 55mph cruise roads duty now. I bought a DRZ400S for when I wanted to do both(trail and street). A completely different animal in the woods. So much more fun for me.