Today I cleaned my 2014 250s, I'm trading up for a highly farkles, low mile, 08 klr650...my 250s a great bike to get my license with and get into dual sporting. But I've always wanted more...que the ktm 400 rxc,

The ktm had a recent frame up restore and is running great!!

 

I slapped in the shims I ordered a few weeks back after checking my valve clearance and slapped in the DJ140 main jet laying around and changed the needle to 3N position. Like the last time I pulled out the cams my can drive chain is noisy. I hope it quiets down this time like it did before after a few hundred miles else M Krieger will be getting an order from me. My around the block test ride on a less than fully warmed engine seemed like more power was available. Clutch-up wheelies are almost as easy on 15x39T as they were on 14x43T with the DJ136 at 4N. The power feels nice. Will get an extended ride later tonight and see if KLXSTER is right. DJ144 is on deck in case I need it.

 

Oh, Snappster, the DJ140/2N is optimal for your setup. You now have all the power your bike can make - lidless with the X3.. You now have more midrange power and extended top end power (7k-9.5k).. So enjoy !
My use of the DJ144 is in an effort to correctly fuel with the full FMF exhaust system - Megabomb with PowerCore 4..
This is a larger-than-stock header and midpipe and requires a whole different fueling curve than your bike with the stock header and X3.. The DJ144 would over fuel your bike terribly from 3k-redline..

 

Rode 50 miles tonight. Interstate a little and country roads. Midrange feels strong. Top end not sure. One time at WOT there was stumbling over 7krpm then another time not. Hit 86mph wide open, flat road, no draft. Will try regular. I filled up with 93 earlier. As I recall my lean surging was worse on 93 and lessened with 87 when I had a DJ128 main. I would assume 87 will run better now with the DJ140. This little bike is a lot more fun then when I got it. Reminds me of my old 69CB350 twin. Had it up to around 100 a few times.

 

69CB350 !!! Wow, your that old.. I wanted the SL350 really bad.. On your ride, are you staying near sea level? OH nevermine, I lived in VA Beach for a while.. your staying at sea level..
I have never experienced stumbling with any of the myriad setups I've tried.. It's wierd that it isn't consistent - one way or the other. It would suggest that "something" was different that one time versus the others.. If it continues, we should compare notes on the minutiae.. Be sure your air filter is clean with very little - if any - oil on it.. I ran my stock filter dry, with the UNI I put a very light spray of oil on it with a spray-on filter oil..

 

Did nothing much but just cleaned it.

 

Funny, I got mine dirty yesterday. Sank to the hubs in mud.

 

Changed to 2N from 3N on klxster's recommendation. Lower mid range power feels better. Doubt I can get much more power without major mods. Anyone near sea level as I am can probably use my set up and run well. Still haven't cleaned the dirt off the bike.

 

I rode to work and hit some trails right across from work, after I got out.
Bike hit 70,000km or 43,500mi tonight...burning some oil (too be expected the way I ride it) and showing the effects of riding all year in NE (not as bad as last years Salar crossing in the Dakar but I've had those type of issues)...I've broken countless seized bolts (chain adjuster bolt, brake pin heads, rear master cylinder bolts(even with anti-sieze!), rear caliper is missing housing from oxidation, etc.) but always gotten them out or fixed.
Just went to get inspected on Friday and he came out and said,"You need the plastic chain guard on and your front brake switch isn't working." What?! Where the F!#& did I put my chain guard?! And what do you mean my brake switch isn't working? It was, right before I came down here! Argh!!!
Run home spend some time digging for the chain guard, find it, install it, and then hit the brake switch.
I take off the switch and the light works perfect...put it back on and no joy...hmmm.
I pull the control housing off and separate the wires. Moving them around I notice the brake go on and off. Ah hah! Bad wires, no problem...got it fixed, buttoned up, and headed back for an inspection sticker. I must have grabbed the brake 20 times, while riding and holding my hand over the light to make sure it was working, lol.
So after all this time riding and wrenching the KLX 250S, my only gripe is the quality of fasteners used by Kawi. There are too many aluminum to bad quality steel bolt connections that can galvanize to one solid piece. It could all be avoided by using some anti-sieze...which I always use, but I haven't taken everything apart yet, almost...
It is similar to Kawi's use of grease, or lack there of, on all the bearings.
Gotta keep costs down, I get it, but that is a poor way to do it.
Other than my self created issues from winter riding, the bike is great. It's reliable as an anvil, even after over 5,000mi of WOT highway trips, 3,000 trail miles, and the rest commuting or the never ending search of Maine's gravel roads.
I want a 331 or 351 really badly, but I REALLY want to know how far I can push the stock motor first. I feel I'm nearing the end of the piston rings life. Do I replace rings or go big bore. Never mind, I know the answer. ;D

 

How do you set up the 2N ? Is it one washer above and one below the clip ? I may be trying that later this week after the monsoon blowing through.