So I was riding and the tensioner became loose spilling oil all over the block,bike and wheels. It became completely loose once I hit the brakes and stopped. White smoke everywhere it sucked,I shat my pants. Obviously I didn't tighten the bolts enough. What's weird is that it was installed three weeks ago so I guess it eventually became loose.so my questions are if I should reinstall it and try turn the bike on (as instructions say of course)? Should I check anything else before doing it? What damage can it have caused? I think I got it recorded on the go pro I'll see if I can post it. BTW I think this should be added to my effing up journal lmao

 

I would guess if it got too loose maybe the chain could of skipped a tooth

so I would suggest checking the timing first

 

I was looking online and even the manual on how to do that but found nothing that really helped. Was wondering how i can check the timing or if you know of any vids that would help,much appreciated! (Hope i dont have to open the whole thing up)

Edit: i did find info on an online manual im gonna try it out thank you http://www.manualslib.com/manual/535...page=75#manual

 

ive never checked on this bike yet


but on other bikes you will have a T mark on the flywheel
you set the piston to TDC and line up the T mark

then check the sprockets on the cam usually they have a line, or a hole that would sit horizontally on this engine I believe

of course its most important to know how to set the piston at TDC


so I think maybe the top of the engine cover needs to come off to see the sprockets
and should have a window to look at the flywheel mark

you leave the tensioner connected when doing this check

 

Mike is right on here.

Don't try to start it. Do take the cam cover off and remove the two covers on the left side to find the "T" on flywheel for top dead center. Turn the motor over using a socket, counter clockwise to find the TDC. Turn slowly and carefully. There's pics in the shop manual and also in my 351 build link in my signature below of the flywheel and cam positioning. Cam lobes should be facing out (exhaust/front cam lobe points to the front wheel, intake/rear cam lobe points to the rear wheel) at TDC. Then install and adjust the tensioner. Turn the motor over several times with the socket and feel for any hangups. Re-check cam positioning at TDC. It helps to remove the spark plug so there is no compression.

You'll want some yamabond or similar sealant on the rubber gasket half moons.

How many miles on the bike? While you have the cam cover off, check valve clearance.

 

So i have to remove the gas tank too right? Do i have to drain it or something? Will i need a new gasket for when i close the cam again?i do have a gasket sealer Excuse my ignorance im new to all of this and this might be a bit challenging the bike has 9572 miles and its from 2007

 

if the chain skipped a full tooth your engine would have went kaboom.

I was off by a tooth when I did the MCM mod the first time around and the piston was getting into a close, physical relationship with the valves. They wanted to take it to another level and maybe move in together... Glad I turned it over by hand first.

Check the timing, but I'm pretty sure if it jumped a tooth you'd know it.

 

The 2009 model is prone to needing a new gasket; that year's tends to shrink. You shouldn't with the 2007. I've removed mine multiple times without any issue.

Yes, you'll need to remove the gas tank. Just turn off the petcock and pay attention to hose routing. There's the one to the carb and a couple vent lines. It's not difficult.

At your mileage, I'd certainly check valve clearance after making sure the chain didn't skip a tooth and checking that everything is timed correctly. If you're in it that far, you may as well.

No worries on the 'ignorance.' I was new just a few years ago and asking the same questions! That's why we're all here.

pwjm - not necessarily go kaboom on a skip tooth, so if I found it skipped I wouldn't give up right there. Another past member here had his timing off by a tooth or two and rode it that way for a long time. One KLR650 mod involves skipping a tooth on the exhaust cam.

SV - if you find the timing off, let us know. There may be some other diagnostic recommendations from other members such as checking compression or trying to find a bore scope to look down through the plug port for any piston damage.

 

I shouldn't state it as fact I suppose, as I'm honestly not sure and only basing it off my own experience. I will say that there is a big difference between skipping a tooth at the crank and skipping a tooth by manually turning one of the cams before putting the chain on again.

It likely depends on the direction of the skip as well, but I have a hard time imagining the bike would continue to run a use-able way (assuming there isn't a kaboom).

 

Its funny. The member who had a tooth or two off said it ran darn well. He thought perhaps better than correctly aligned. We commended him with his own version of the Marcelino Mod. I think you're right; it may depend which way it is off.