T-mod for water crossings

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  #1  
Old 11-10-2015, 11:44 PM
KawaBiker's Avatar
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Default T-mod for water crossings

This summer I took my '09 KLX250S to Colorado for the first time. Last summer I had ridden my XR200R across Pole Creek and Lost Trail Creek and did not even think about it. What could go wrong?

I happened to hit some 3G mobile and noticed a blog by Big Al. Always a good read so I checked it out. I was surprised to read the following:

"I get about 7/8 of the way across and I can't keep it from stalling. I'm able to make it to what looks like good footing but I'm still in the river...now I'm trying to get the bike started and not fall over, the current wasn't crazy but it was sure as hell stronger than I realized. It keeps firing but won't run, I can't rev it with out choking it out and it won't idle. .... [Later] .... The only thing I can think is some how one of those hoses that hang down sucked up some water. Its never been a problem before but maybe this time I was in the water for to long, thats all I can think of." https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...g-41491/page8/

Whoa. Looking at the rat's nest of carb on the KLX there was no possibility of a field mod. I would just have to take it slow.

Coming back I hit Pole Creek too fast and water sprayed above the handlebars. About 7/8 of the way across--that magic fraction--the engine started just barely turning over. Just enough power to move. I managed to get it up onto the bank.

After about 30 seconds it started responding to the throttle again. Never quit running and I did not have to drain the fuel bowl like Big Al (who is a professional mechanic, btw). Water must have sprayed up into the vent line(s) and interrupted gas flow briefly.

Did a little reading and put a "T-mod" on my to-do list for fall jet change.

Could not find too many details, but it is now done so figured I would document it. I made a single standpipe with two T's into it.

Here are the two vent lines, left and right:
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I got a kit of plastic T's and 6 feet of 7/32-inch ID windshield washer hose at O'Reillys. Used 51 inches of hose and 2 ea. 1/4-inch T-fittings.

The right hose runs down over the starter, staying away from the exhaust, and hits a T in the stand pipe:
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The left hose runs down and hits another T just above the swingarm:
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Above, I drew a dashed line to show the route of the right hose.

The stand pipe drains downward between the swingarm and shock so it stays away from the chain. The top end runs up around the airbox and ends by the fuses.

Everything drains downward. Should be good to go for future water crossings.

BTW, the fuel bowl drain screw is 3 mm hex. I have never been able to turn it when the carb is on the bike because the exhaust header blocks all my hex keys. Big Al used a very short hex key. I am looking for one of those. Meanwhile it can be turned with the small pair of Vise-Grips in my tool pack.

Just found this post: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ng-water-8745/ One vent is for the fuel bowl, the other the diaphragm.
 

Last edited by KawaBiker; 05-25-2016 at 01:58 AM.
  #2  
Old 11-11-2015, 02:09 AM
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Get a hex key set with "ball" ends. They allow use at an angle. That's how I get to my crab drain.
I routed my teed lines up to the handle bars, ATV style...figured if I'm in that deep I'm screwed for sure.
 
  #3  
Old 11-13-2015, 03:38 AM
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Looks good, a hex with a ball end is a good suggestion also. I didn't realize how easy it was to get water up there until it happened to me. It happened so easily it took me 20-30 minutes to figure it out. I thought "no way in hell I got water in the carb from that", yep, I did...

PS, I'm not sure about that Big Al guy, he's kind of a weirdo...
 
  #4  
Old 11-13-2015, 12:52 PM
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Thanks, will pick up a set

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piec...set-94680.html

He is a good feller
 
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