2 month ago I installed the Krieger tensioner and the noise around 5200 rpm was gone. Still I had a low frequency noise between 3000 and 4000 rpm occasionally. not very loud, like some plastic parts are rattling. This low frequency noise has become quite annoying recently. Thought I need to tighten the tensioner a bit but was surprised that the tensioner bolt can't be turned by hand anymore and I used a wrench to turn it maybe a quarter turn. I was afraid to over tighten it because with a wrench the feedback was missing. Is it safe to tighten the bolt in small increments like a quarter turn until the noise is gone?

Or maybe this noise is caused by something else???

regards from Lombok
Duomike

 

Yeah, it's hard to diagnose someone else's perception of noise and its source. It sounds like you have more of a handle on it than most because you've done the manual chain adjuster and know a bit about the noise involved there. It's going to be hard to help you conclusively there.

I was involved with Mark in the development of his adjuster since at the time Mark didn't have a KLX. On your adjustment regimen, I actually like to do the adjustment while the bike is running and warmed up. I can hear and feel the feedback in the adjusting bolt. This is harder to do, as your have to use an extension and access the adjuster bolt from the rear near the wheel...at least as I do as I find the hot exhaust and lack of room to be a pain. Being able to hear and feel the change in cam chain noise while the bike is running is still my preferred method.

 

Thanks for your comments. Yesterday the noise was gone, today it appeared accasionally. Guess if something was wrong with the cam chain tensioner the noise would be constant. Looks like I have to look elsewere

 

I'd agree. A cam chain noise only varies a bit with engine heat like from cold start to full warm. And of course it can vary with rpm, but it's consistent at those different rpm's.

 

With the cam chain noise you can duplicate it with free reving sitting still, and listening to where the noise is coming from. It will be from the right side at the cam drive tower if it is drive noise. This can also be detected with a mechanic's stethoscope or a long handle screwdriver, handle against the ear and tip on different places on the engine.

But I agree with your assessment. Cam chain noise may come and go with the OEM unit, but not with the manual one.

 

I'd be inclined to redo the static adjustment via the finger method and leave it at that.

Quarter turns until the noise stops? NO. That's a pretty coarse step.

The noise is most likely something else.