She is dead Jim!
#11
04-17-2014, 09:18 PM
Glad you have it sorted. Thanks for posting the vid of Whissenhunt, that's one of the OHV areas I have not visited yet because of the limited fuel range I have-the new Acerbis tank should fix that shortly.
I don't know how far you're willing to travel but if you are looking for some challenging terrain then try -windy gap/milma creek west of Ellijay. You won't be disappointed and if you really want to test your skills then come up to my area and ride Beasley **** or Oakey Mountain-just try and hit those after at least a weeks dry spell or it may be to slick to pass. Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest - OHV Riding & Camping:OHV Trail Riding
I don't know how far you're willing to travel but if you are looking for some challenging terrain then try -windy gap/milma creek west of Ellijay. You won't be disappointed and if you really want to test your skills then come up to my area and ride Beasley **** or Oakey Mountain-just try and hit those after at least a weeks dry spell or it may be to slick to pass. Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest - OHV Riding & Camping:OHV Trail Riding
The last few years we have just been hitting Moto Mountain while the other OHV's are closed. One time I went up the most experienced riders only trail with my 2001 KLX300r
I had a hard time getting up there and crashed a few times bent the stock bars and messed up my shoulder.
This is from back in 2006 going from 4 strokes to my first adult owned 2-stroke.
Ohenry
#12
04-20-2014, 07:43 PM
Hello again and Happy Easter!
Guess what? I took a ride today and the instrument cluster started to blink again! I left it on a trickle charge since its perfect performance on my last ride. It started right up, I went to fill it up with gas, and when I was on my way back it started blinking and I had to use my buddies car to jump it. With the running the volts at the battery are 11.8 but when I gave it gas it went down to 8 volts and the instrument cluster started blink again until I left it idle then if it was a high idle it would start loosing power again. I had on WOT and it would go completely blank. Now my battery is dead but I am charging it but I think it is a goner.
Any ideas?
Ohenry
Guess what? I took a ride today and the instrument cluster started to blink again! I left it on a trickle charge since its perfect performance on my last ride. It started right up, I went to fill it up with gas, and when I was on my way back it started blinking and I had to use my buddies car to jump it. With the running the volts at the battery are 11.8 but when I gave it gas it went down to 8 volts and the instrument cluster started blink again until I left it idle then if it was a high idle it would start loosing power again. I had on WOT and it would go completely blank. Now my battery is dead but I am charging it but I think it is a goner.
Any ideas?
Ohenry
Last edited by Ohenry; 04-20-2014 at 10:14 PM.
#13
04-20-2014, 10:56 PM
ohenry, glad to see its running and all, but...
if you have a multimeter and the time
it cant hurt to determine that the charging sys is all up to snuff.
google triumph rat regulator rectifier testing
for the single best set of testing instructions available on the net
of course, some connectors or wire colors may be diff
but all the same principles apply to any modern bike with a R/R
its all very easy to check, and you will know that ALL IS WELL
if you have a multimeter and the time
it cant hurt to determine that the charging sys is all up to snuff.
google triumph rat regulator rectifier testing
for the single best set of testing instructions available on the net
of course, some connectors or wire colors may be diff
but all the same principles apply to any modern bike with a R/R
its all very easy to check, and you will know that ALL IS WELL
#15
04-21-2014, 01:04 AM
V4 wants you to check the voltage output from the stator to the voltage regulator. That will tell you if the problem is the stator or VR. You need to unplug the harness from the VR and measure the A/C voltage on the 3 wires coming from the stator with the engine running at about 5k. Set your multimeter to display a/c voltage and test by touching the leads from each of 3 wires.
#16
04-21-2014, 01:06 AM
Ohenry- the stator sends AC volts to the R/R
Which is magically transformed to DC to run the bike
So, the question is whether the stator is sending proper AC volts thru all 3 legs
The FSM specs 41 volts AC at 4k rpm thru each leg, if not = bad stator
Which is magically transformed to DC to run the bike
So, the question is whether the stator is sending proper AC volts thru all 3 legs
The FSM specs 41 volts AC at 4k rpm thru each leg, if not = bad stator
#17
04-21-2014, 02:01 AM
The thing is I just replaced the rectifier
This added to my 3rd bad battery tells me there is a killer drainer!
I have no power as of now so first thing is get another battery.
This added to my 3rd bad battery tells me there is a killer drainer!
I have no power as of now so first thing is get another battery.
Last edited by Ohenry; 04-21-2014 at 02:04 AM.
#18
04-22-2014, 10:10 PM
OK new battery
No key 12.79
Key on 12.15
Motor idle 13.8
Motor @ 4000 rpm 13.8
I did a ride and gave it the berries and came back and it tested @ 13.8 at idle. Then I put it on a charge and it tested @ 13.3 and falling @ the battery no key. After an hour it was @ 13
The only thing I did in between rides was pressure wash it. Do you think the battery got wet?
Ohenry
No key 12.79
Key on 12.15
Motor idle 13.8
Motor @ 4000 rpm 13.8
I did a ride and gave it the berries and came back and it tested @ 13.8 at idle. Then I put it on a charge and it tested @ 13.3 and falling @ the battery no key. After an hour it was @ 13
The only thing I did in between rides was pressure wash it. Do you think the battery got wet?
Ohenry
