Rear brake lost power
#1
Rear brake lost power
Hi, today my rear brake got very numb. No power at all.
Brake pads are almost new, break fluid is on max.
What im gonna check:
The break lever play nut to make sure its not lose
Air bleeding or complete fluid change
What else could be?
Brake pads are almost new, break fluid is on max.
What im gonna check:
The break lever play nut to make sure its not lose
Air bleeding or complete fluid change
What else could be?
#2
I had the same problem last month. Reservoir was full and fluid looked clean. But I went ahead and replaced the fluid and got it to work again. There were some bubbles when I changed it so I suspect that was the problem.
#3
If you live near a Harbor Freight they have a $30 vacuum bleeder that is worth it. Took me 3 minutes to fill and bleed my Zephyr 550 rear brake working alone. Low vacuum and keep the reservoir full. I learned that part on the front brakes when I got the bleeder, kept drawing bubbles while bleeding. I think it was drawing air at the fitting or at the seals since they're designed to seal against pressure not vacuum. I also kept sucking the reservoir dry. My wife helped on that one and when I figured low vacuum they came in quickly.
#4
If you live near a Harbor Freight they have a $30 vacuum bleeder that is worth it. Took me 3 minutes to fill and bleed my Zephyr 550 rear brake working alone. Low vacuum and keep the reservoir full. I learned that part on the front brakes when I got the bleeder, kept drawing bubbles while bleeding. I think it was drawing air at the fitting or at the seals since they're designed to seal against pressure not vacuum. I also kept sucking the reservoir dry. My wife helped on that one and when I figured low vacuum they came in quickly.
Also, I got clear tubing from a pet store for aquariums. Fit perfect.
#5
Not to argue cost, but rather a term - waste.
Obviously you've never had bleeding issues or possibly not used a vacuum bleeder. This is no more a waste of money than any other tool to make work easier. You can use body jacks to get a car up on jack stands. Heck, they come with the car. But a relatively low priced hydraulic floor jack makes life way better. Five minutes and my truck is on stands under the rear, both wheels off the ground... Again, thanks to modern machining lowering prices, I remember days before that stuff.
Then it is just having a good tool to do a job. Heck I used to use a crescent wrench instead of a proper wrench on my axle of my bicycle - until I stripped the nut, then it was Vise Grips . Then it was using just wrenches and sockets on all my motorcycle stuff to start to do it right, also with the occasional stripped or snapped fastener. Then I did an engine, then it was a torque wrench to do it right. When I started doing set up I started using a torque wrench on every nut and bolt - liability, if I do it then a failure is not mine. I also remember a dealership where the service manager bought all the set up guys torque wrenches, seemed they were snapping too many fork cap studs and handle bar bolts. Takes time and money, but now when I need the right thing I have the right thing.
Some may see it as waste... until the time when they want to ride and can't seem to get that air pocket out of their braking system, front or rear. That happens a lot more often than is posted in forums. Right now I could pull a brake line, rebuild a caliper and have the system bled in minutes after finishing. I'll take that. Not a waste.
I'm dead on serious, less than 3 minutes from dry system to bled and riding. After 35 years of hydraulic brake systems it is one of the best tools I've bought. When it is needed it is a God send. I learned when working in the shop and having access to one. I struggled bleeding a front brake with the old "pump, hold, bleed, repeat" and could not get the air out. Tried all the gimmicks then borrowed the bleeder from the shop for an evening. Done deal in short order. When I did my dual disc front brakes on my 550 with braided lines I bought the tool and no regrets.
I remember doing car brakes the way you speak of. Yeah, I'll do $30 even for a paltry motorcycle rear brake, because it is fast, clean, easy, and a sure way to avoid frustration. Oh - no holding a brake pedal while cracking loose a fitting. Draw a bit of vacuum, crack the fitting, watch the bleeder line for bubbles and master cylinder level, close if low, repeat. I think it took two, maybe three "bleeds" to fill the line and caliper with fluid only. Didn't have to bother my wife either.
Your way may be cheaper, but a good relatively low priced tool that can be used repeatedly in the future by self or friends - not a waste of money. And the wife doesn't act bugged since you don't have to ask for her help.
Not a waste.
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