hi,
i recently heard whisle noise. found to be a rear brake caliper not connected steady to the caliper mount.
there is a screw there that connectes to the caliper and keeps in to the mount as a pin that is going through a rubber cover inside the caliper mount (the right hole in the pic). i rempved the caliper and replaced it. no whisle but still has some tiny free move.. what am i missing?

 

There are two mounting points for the caliper-the pin that you are referring to and a stud that is on the bracket that holds the pads. It's hard to see on the pic you posted but it looks like you dont have the caliper attached to the rear pin. It is p/n 49006 on the illustration(that's actually the rubber bushing that slides over the pin. If that bushing is missing/damaged it can cause problems.

 

Your picture is of such poor quality that it is impossible to see anything.
Your brakes are important, don't screw it up.

 

i was refering to 92043a

when i reinstalled the caliper i did put 49006 in place

no parts missing according to diagram but the 92043a is the place not holding firmly the caliper.. its like doing nothing to hold the caliper still

and 49006 is a rubber on a pib so its not holding the caliper tight

 

The brake caliper is a floating brake caliper. It means those pins allow the caliper to move to self-position itself to equally squeeze the rotor from both sides as the pads wear. Those pins should be smooth and greased with wheel bearing grease (hi temp to play it safe) and free to allow the caliper to slide side to side. In this case some play is good.

The only thing holding the brake caliper firm are the brake pads when the brakes are squeezed. If the brake pads are retracted in all the way you should be able to slide the caliper on the pins whatever bit there is allowed by the retracted pads. Same is true on the front caliper. If the pins are dirty or corroded hindering the caliper movement the pads can wear uenvenly and possibly cause rotor issues.

Twin opposed piston and four opposed piston calipers, on the other hand, are bolted tight in place and the pads do the job of centering up.

 

okay, i see. my front caliper seems steady so maybe the problem is there?

 

The caliper needs to move a little, but should be firm when the brakes are applied firmly......the bolt/slider pin 92043A needs to be tight, but allow the caliper to slide on it. Not sure what whistle noise you are tracing?

 

Only if it doesn't slide on the pins.

Your whistle could be the pads dragging slightly. Some bikes with drilled rotors will make an interesting whining noise when slowing down. My Zephyr does it as does my friend's DRz400SM. Get the back wheel in the air, put the brakes on, then let off and see if the brakes aren't releasing enough. They will drag lightly, but not feel like they're still on a bit. If they aren't releasing enough the caliper pistons may need cleaned a bit. Worst case you end up popping them out, cleaning them and reassembling the caliper. If you want you can replace the seals and all, but if nothing looks bad, reassemble with what's there.

If you don't have one, get a vacuum bleeder from some place like Harbor Freight. Theirs is $25-30 depending on sales and coupons. Low vacuum pressure (negative) is the key, pump just enough to create some suction, to draw the fluid through. I went gonzo on the pump the first time I did brakes, sucks the reservoir dry too fast and can suck air in at the caliper and bleeder.

 

ill check it .. thanks