Output shaft (Counter shaft) seal part number?
#1
10-09-2015, 01:10 AM
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 80
Output shaft (Counter shaft) seal part number?
2009 KLX250S
Started leaking oil. Seems straightforward to replace the seal: good video
Trying to figure out the part number. Both BikeBandit and RMAM show 92152, which is the metal collar.
They don't show in the diagram, but in the list is:
92152A 92152-1357 COLLAR,20X28X8.5
Given that it has three dimensions I am guessing this is the seal.
Going to also get:
92055 92055-0196 RING-O,21.5X1.5
Pretty sure this has to be it, but thought I would ask. Thanks.
Started leaking oil. Seems straightforward to replace the seal: good video
Trying to figure out the part number. Both BikeBandit and RMAM show 92152, which is the metal collar.
They don't show in the diagram, but in the list is:
92152A 92152-1357 COLLAR,20X28X8.5
Given that it has three dimensions I am guessing this is the seal.
Going to also get:
92055 92055-0196 RING-O,21.5X1.5
Pretty sure this has to be it, but thought I would ask. Thanks.
#2
10-09-2015, 04:02 AM
Seal is 92049-1577. The collar fits over the countershaft and the o-ring seals the inside of the collar to the shaft and the 92049-1577 seals the outside of the collar to crankcase.
#4
10-09-2015, 05:54 PM
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...problem-43327/
The video makes it look so easy. Be prepared to have trouble removing the collar. Some of us have had trouble (see above link). My collar was back-ordered too, but came in in about two weeks. Haven't actually used it yet. My leak stopped when I changed the outer seal only, since I couldn't get the collar off and didn't have the new one at the time. Now, as long as it's not leaking, I'm not messing with it. (Maybe if the weather's too bad to ride.)
The video makes it look so easy. Be prepared to have trouble removing the collar. Some of us have had trouble (see above link). My collar was back-ordered too, but came in in about two weeks. Haven't actually used it yet. My leak stopped when I changed the outer seal only, since I couldn't get the collar off and didn't have the new one at the time. Now, as long as it's not leaking, I'm not messing with it. (Maybe if the weather's too bad to ride.)
Last edited by Oldad; 10-09-2015 at 05:57 PM. Reason: bad spelling
#5
10-10-2015, 02:27 PM
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 80
Mine all came apart easily. The seal actually stuck to the sprocket. Which probably means other problems. Will update when the parts arrive and the adventure continues.
#6
10-16-2015, 12:30 AM
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 80
Completed
It went pretty smooth. Here are my notes. I know they will remind me next time and maybe help somebody else meanwhile.
Order of reassembly: O-ring, metal collar with cutouts inward, seal, sprocket with stepped side in, washer, nut.
As per the manual, I coated the splines and threads with the "molybdenum disulfide oil solution" (Service manual, page 11-3) that I made up last year when I installed the 13T sprocket. The ratio is 10:1 engine oil to grease. I just weighed a blob of good MolyDi grease on a digital scale, then put 10x weight of oil in and shook the bottle.
Put it in first gear, stood on the brake, reached over the bike and torqued nut to 92 ft-lbs with HF torque meter. Bent over the retainer washer.
I was a little surprised how exposed the oil seal is. It just sits next to the sprocket, exposed to water, mud, sand, gravel, and sticks. I will stock an extra seal and o-ring because I expect they will need replacing again before too long.
= References
Crankcase parts schematic for seal
Service Manual page 9-4 output shaft
page 11-2 final drive
page 11-8 sprocket
= Tools
HF impact wrench
27 mm impact socket
HF torque meter 1/2 In Drive Digital Torque Adapter
Order of reassembly: O-ring, metal collar with cutouts inward, seal, sprocket with stepped side in, washer, nut.
As per the manual, I coated the splines and threads with the "molybdenum disulfide oil solution" (Service manual, page 11-3) that I made up last year when I installed the 13T sprocket. The ratio is 10:1 engine oil to grease. I just weighed a blob of good MolyDi grease on a digital scale, then put 10x weight of oil in and shook the bottle.
Put it in first gear, stood on the brake, reached over the bike and torqued nut to 92 ft-lbs with HF torque meter. Bent over the retainer washer.
I was a little surprised how exposed the oil seal is. It just sits next to the sprocket, exposed to water, mud, sand, gravel, and sticks. I will stock an extra seal and o-ring because I expect they will need replacing again before too long.
= References
Crankcase parts schematic for seal
Service Manual page 9-4 output shaft
page 11-2 final drive
page 11-8 sprocket
= Tools
HF impact wrench
27 mm impact socket
HF torque meter 1/2 In Drive Digital Torque Adapter
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post