Oil change?
#1
Oil change?
Ok so im planning to do an oil change tomorrow and i was wondering if the oil i was using was fine (10-W40) or should i change to 20-W50? i use Kawasaki 4-stroke oil. Keep in mind i live in florida and its hot nearly all year around, bike is KLX 2007 and has nearly 12k miles, its also my daily. Also should i replace oil filter every time as well?(ive been replacing oil filter every time) and lastly every how many miles?;o thank you guys for the help !!
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Remember to check out my new vlog channel!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCh2...BErIv7nxqawTWA
#2
The thicker oil concept is really an old school approach. Our machines have better metallurgy, better cooling systems, and closer tolerances. The oils have also risen to a level of technology, quality, and durability that far exceed the reasons that people used to go that route. I'm in Texas(hot summers)...all my life...and I've lived through the "good-old-days" of heavier oils for air-cooled motors and such. It's just not needed these days, and in many cases is inferior. Our cylinder heads have the cams riding directly in the machined supports in the head, and the 10W-40 is much better at startup for this design where much of the actual wear occurs. 20W-50 these days is pretty much relegated to air-cooled engines, and even most of the modern versions of these use 10W-40. Now, when talking about highly modded engines...and I mean "highly"...in strictly track/strip competition venues, the 20W-50 may still be viable, but I'd bet some research in those venues about oil weights might surprise you.
#6
The thicker oil concept is really an old school approach. Our machines have better metallurgy, better cooling systems, and closer tolerances. The oils have also risen to a level of technology, quality, and durability that far exceed the reasons that people used to go that route. I'm in Texas(hot summers)...all my life...and I've lived through the "good-old-days" of heavier oils for air-cooled motors and such. It's just not needed these days, and in many cases is inferior. Our cylinder heads have the cams riding directly in the machined supports in the head, and the 10W-40 is much better at startup for this design where much of the actual wear occurs. 20W-50 these days is pretty much relegated to air-cooled engines, and even most of the modern versions of these use 10W-40. Now, when talking about highly modded engines...and I mean "highly"...in strictly track/strip competition venues, the 20W-50 may still be viable, but I'd bet some research in those venues about oil weights might surprise you.
#7
Extra Virgin Olive oil is good. Don't know if Virgin or Ordinary Virgin can work as well as well as Extra Virgin..
P.S. Don't pour olive oil anywhere near your motorcycle - I just enjoy using the word "virgin" ...
P.S. Don't pour olive oil anywhere near your motorcycle - I just enjoy using the word "virgin" ...
#8
Now that's funny!!!!
#9
On a related note, Extra Virgin is defined as never having been used. Ordinary can be converted back to Virgin by putting a cork in it and not using it for 12 months. But, Ordinary can never be converted back to Extra Virgin. Works for oil too...