Found a nice 2006 KLX250s and thinking about grabbing it.
28K easy miles, looks new, 2 owners (older). Two issues I noticed:
1) Oil on the top front of the engine (head gasket?)
2) Loud clicking sound while running. Owner says it's from some kind of mechanical thing that needs adjusting that helps toss the oil up into the engine. Have no idea what the hell he's talking about. I'm guessing CCT?

I don't want either of thee to deter me if they are not difficult or expensive fixes - I've been riding a VFR800 for years and working on that thing is like working on a space shuttle so I'm not deterred by work but I'm not familiar with dirt bikes. He wants $1900 and comes with some extras.

I've attached a pic of the oil as well as a short video of the engine running for the clicking sound.

Appreciate any help-

 

I have no real insight into the problems..but quickly thinking. A bad gasket and I didn't watch the movie but I'd say it was the cam chain clicking.

But...

I would pass. I paid less than that for an 06 with less than half the miles....bought it a couple weeks ago. Bike was flawless. Not even any case or frame wear from boots. Brand new parts were: tires, battery, protaper bars, and bark busters. There are better deals out there. I've seen 09s for 2000 to 2500.

 

No doubt the leak is on the cam cover gasket. If a head gasket was bad you'd likely have milky oil from water in the oil since the actual pressurized fluid is the liquid cooling. Pressurized oil is carried by an external line, not through the head where it might leak, especially at the front. The gasket is known to shrink if taken out and left lying while doing valve shimming - like waiting for ordered shims. I put my cam cover back on with the bolts snugged up a bit when I wasn't actually doing the shim work, waiting for shims to show up, to keep the gasket in good condition.

As for the clacking - the thing that would scare me most, the guy doesn't have a clue - something that throws the oil up into the engine - duh! He must tear apart old lawn mowers with oil slingers, not having a clue about motorcycle engines. Not sure they're adjustable on a mower.

About 99% chance it is the cam chain slapping around and the tensioner being pushed in and snapping back out - aka junk tensioner. If you want to know for sure listen where the noise is coming from, if it is on the right side of the engine it is the cam chain. If you use a mechanic's stethoscope or long handle screwdriver, put the tip to the tensioner and listen there - it will be the focal point of most of the noise. If the noise is up in the head the valves need shimmed. You can tell if you do it right.

Unless the inside sliders are damaged you can probably get away with just the tensioner to take care of it. That is the gamble.

I would pound him on price with the fact that you did the research and it could cost you at least $300 to replace the cam chain, sliders and tensioner plus the cost of the new cam cover gasket. That you know the cam chain tensioner is a common issue on KLX250s and KLX300s. Realize you might have to pay to fix those things, but also you gamble the tensioner will take care of it for $36 plus shipping (I make and sell them). Do you want to take the gamble? If the price is low enough.

I've been through this enough personally as well as with several thousand riders to know cam drive noise isn't normal, but there is a fix. Most of the time the tensioner is all that is needed, but no guarantee.

If you should buy the bike, if it is rattling that bad don't ride it until you take care of the tensioner issue. Last thing you want to do is break a slider or jam the chain somehow, breaking stuff. I've known of two KLX300 riders who've broken chains, one bought the bike with a broken chain, didn't fix the tensioner, and broke another one. The manual tensioner takes care of the problem with fixed setting. The rider only adjusts it if they hear ticking when the engine is fully warmed up. You'll do valves more often.

 

Price seems high. (I paid $2950 last fall for a 2012 with 2000 km.) That and it's not running properly ... run away! Maybe if it had half the miles, no leak and no loud click!

If you are intent on getting the bike I'd clean off the oil and run it to see where it's coming from. Is the cover cracked? Is a bolt missing or loose? Is it coming from the gasket?

As for the noise, does it change with RPM? Does it go away at certain speeds? As mentioned, it could be the cam chain tensioner. In theory they are automatic but can fail. I installed a manual tensioner on my 2012. What damage has been caused by an improperly tensioned chain? Will the chain need replacement? The guides? Is it valve noise?

I'd start at $500 and not go over $1000 in that condition. That's assuming you are mechanically inclined, have a full set of metric tools and a good torque wrench. If not, walk away.

 

Agree with the replies above. Walk away unless you can get that for a fraction of what's asked.

Here's a thread where members have posted their CL finds.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ind-day-37617/


These four are available from my local CL.
2007 KAWASAKI KLX 250

2007 -NEW- Dirt Bike Kawasaki KLX 250

I paid $2500 for an 06 five years ago that looked to be in this condition and with just a few more miles: 2006 Kawasaki KLX 250

2007 Kawasaki KLX 250

 

Thanks gang - the noise was pretty constant right from idle. I'll hit him up on the price and see what happens...

 

I paid $1700 for my 2006 KLX and it had less than 600 miles on it. it had been stored outside at some point and the green plastic looks pretty rough, but other than a fork seal there was nothing at all wrong with it. I bought the bike in Vermont in the winter, taking advantage of the seasonal fluctuation.

The 06/07 bikes seem to have bottomed out in value. For around $2000 I would expect runner without problems or with very minor problems like a bad fork seal or a tail light out.

Engine noise is a crap shoot. I've had engines apart and don't really like it. I can do the work but it's not really something I enjoy. You could tear into it and find a lot of work. On the other hand as long as you have it apart, do the bill blue kit.

Also, no bike of mine would ever be run with crud like that on the top of the engine. So, it's not really a good sign of the character of the owner.

For me, I'd be looking for $1200, it's high mileage, it's has a problem, it's fall. Maybe I would go $1300 but not without trying $1200 first.

There are a lot of bikes in the world.

 

I got that bike for 1600 bucks 3 weeks ago.


I still say keep looking or tell agree with above, but I'd only go maybe 500-800 for the bike if you feel like tinkering. But keep in mind you may end up with more in it than its worth if you get deep into a rebuild if its bad.