Could make this easier for you, Once I've got mine running again I'll let you have a rip. Cant say about the cams, but the throttle response is downright amazing.

 

I appreciate the offer Wreck. i just might take you up on that, but for know I am ordering the cams. This way Im into the engine only once for both upgrades. just so u know because of u I just might be able to swing the carb too!!

 

If you look at the way the head casting has a sharp lip around the perimeter of the valves, by smoothing that edge so that it doesn't create turbulence it will improve air flow both in and out of the cylinder. It's definitely worth the effort to massage the chamber to open up the area around the valves, especially since the bore is increased so much. I removed quite a bit of material and with the base gasket and head gasket installed it still has 12.4:1 compression.

The big bore adds the most power and the pumper enhances throttle response-those together are really enough...but I never was very good at restraint so when my crank grenaded I figured why not-the 101 cams enhanced power across the board and moved the over-rev up to about 9200 before it starts to nose over. I don't really need to buzz it up that hard when I'm out in the sticks and it's still very docile when I get into technical terrain.

Bottom line-if you want big power buy a KTM or something similar but if you like to tinker and enjoy making things work better it's a good project.

I still get compliments when I'm out and about even with the scuffed up body.

 

gbauto...would u say that thae cams were worth it?

 

now wait a sec, I thought I was putting your kids through college... hahaha

 

On a 'bang for the buck' basis they would be the last thing I would do, kinda a cherry on the top move.
Does make me smile under my helmet when I wick it up tho...

 

Maybe some facts will help you. If your near sea level, the CV carb can't even properly feed an uncorked, MCM'd stock bore. Even with the largest (132) DJ jet in the kit, it is still too lean. See my Dyno charts, and these facts, for yourself.

Now for opinions -

Given the issues with a forum modded stock bore, the only way I see the CV feeding a 351 is - poorly, horribly, incompetently, perhaps just well enough so that you'll never know just how much power your loosing - unless you Dyno it and see the horrible AFR chart for yourself. I haven't found one post that is negative toward the performance of the TM36 on our bikes, they are all quite to the contrary. The prevailing wisdom is that the TM doesn't add power- just throttle response. This prevailing wisdom is not based on facts. I look at my AFR charts and come to the conclusion that the TM will add power, and throttle response, over the CV, once it is set up properly as verified with a Dyno AFR chart. -As far as I can tell, this is something no one has done yet.

While I am not a BB351 fan boy, it is the most HP/TRQ we can get. I researched our forum on the 351 last year. I think if you research it as well, you'll come to the following conclusions. You'll make low 20s on a stock bike ($600), about 27 when you add a carb and exhaust ($1100), about 30 when you add cams ($1400), about 32-35 when you add larger valves and head work (way above $1400 - call Bill Blue). Total up the costs to get 35 hp and you could have bought one of the street legal KTM's - any of which would run off and hide from a KLX351.

 

Removing head material that's inhibiting flow in or out of the combustion chamber

"Unshrouding means making more room for fuel mixture to flow OUT of the port, PAST the valve. INTO the combustion chamber. The biggest obstacle is the combustion chamber wall right next to the valve, on 3 sides.

You remove material from all 3 sides where there's room for it, to allow the mixture to flow in smoothly. The most challenging obstacle is the one where the combustion chamber vertical wall is closest to the cylinder wall.

You can't remove much material there, but you should at least remove AS MUCH as you can, all the way to the cylinder wall distance, to remove the step you'd otherwise have there. "

This step is especially harmful on the exhaust valve side, because it obstructs exhaust gas flow TOWARD the exhaust port.

 

Ok guys thanks for sharing all your knowledge I think based on gbauto's post of experience having the bb with and without the cams.... I have changed my mind and will do the pumper first and the cams and some head massaging sometime over the winter.
Thanks all!!
NOW the trick is getting the carb jetted right!
Any suggetions on where to start... 351, megabomb+Q4, KDX snorkle, uni filter

 

On the carb jetting, most all the work has pretty much been done by many past forum members. You're not having to stumble around in the dark like you often have to do with a totally different carb. The good thing is that the TM36-68 has been put on KLX300's for many years, and some knowledgeable forum members likd Dan Moore and Mustang have pounded out the jetting also. Just this minute I returned from a quick jetting session of dropping my needle one notch from normal for my high altitude trip that I'm preparing to do in Utah. When I do the canyon country sections of Utah like Moab, Lake Powell, etc., I don't even have to touch the jetting. The pumper is easy to install and easy to work on IMO.