MotorKote
#21
07-23-2014, 03:04 PM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Land of Fruits and Nuts(Cali)
Posts: 145
Good comments. To an extent all materials are porous at a molecular level. It just depends on what is trying to permeate the surface. Even plastic gas tanks have some of the additives in gasoline seep through the plastic - causes the stickers to lift. So at a molecular level oil and other lubricants like that do soak in surfaces.
As said, it is trying to prove the product actually does anything. Same with oils. The only real proof about best change intervals can only be done by destructive testing. Run the oil doing samples, until the engine breaks down due to oil failure. Use the information to formulate the ideal interval. A long long process - and I'm betting the manufacturers and oil companies have done similar testing to make their oil change interval claims.
Everyone gets hepped up on changing oil every 2000 miles making claims about break down and such, but there's nothing proving it makes a difference - except oil company claims. There's always someone like me who ignores the oil for another 3000 miles (5000 total or more) with the same results.
The bearing test means nothing except if you have a failure in the system that lets the surfaces touch. A good oiling system will not allow that, the bearing is the oil film between surfaces. Thus the reason for two of us having similar mileage results, one with the additive and one with only dyno oil.
But there is nothing wrong with using additives if one feels they work better, as long as they don't cause damage.
As said, it is trying to prove the product actually does anything. Same with oils. The only real proof about best change intervals can only be done by destructive testing. Run the oil doing samples, until the engine breaks down due to oil failure. Use the information to formulate the ideal interval. A long long process - and I'm betting the manufacturers and oil companies have done similar testing to make their oil change interval claims.
Everyone gets hepped up on changing oil every 2000 miles making claims about break down and such, but there's nothing proving it makes a difference - except oil company claims. There's always someone like me who ignores the oil for another 3000 miles (5000 total or more) with the same results.
The bearing test means nothing except if you have a failure in the system that lets the surfaces touch. A good oiling system will not allow that, the bearing is the oil film between surfaces. Thus the reason for two of us having similar mileage results, one with the additive and one with only dyno oil.
But there is nothing wrong with using additives if one feels they work better, as long as they don't cause damage.
#22
07-24-2014, 12:47 AM
Now it won't soak in entirely through the metal like it could with a sponge or wood or paper.
#23
07-24-2014, 03:21 AM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Barrie Ontario Canada
Posts: 128
Ok. So while I use synthetic in my KLX, I am no longer a believer that additives will prolong a motor any more than proper oil change intervals...AND I`m no longer convinced that I need expensive oils.
I have an `02 Impala with a 3.4. I bought it 8 years ago and turned it into a taxi. The ORIGIONAL motor is still in it with 780 000KMS on it. Ive done head and intake gaskets, but all else is origional. I`ve changed valve guide seals twice and burn less than a liter of oil between changes. (Sorry this is all Metric).
My secret?
the CHEAPEST oil on sale but changed every 5000KMS religiously. That includes recycled oil (usually the cheap no name oils)
I have 5 cabs all together and they range in miles from 380 000kms to this Impala.
I don`t need any more proof. I`ve lived it.
The only reason I use synthetic in the KLX is that it flows much better cold than dino oils.
I have an `02 Impala with a 3.4. I bought it 8 years ago and turned it into a taxi. The ORIGIONAL motor is still in it with 780 000KMS on it. Ive done head and intake gaskets, but all else is origional. I`ve changed valve guide seals twice and burn less than a liter of oil between changes. (Sorry this is all Metric).
My secret?
the CHEAPEST oil on sale but changed every 5000KMS religiously. That includes recycled oil (usually the cheap no name oils)
I have 5 cabs all together and they range in miles from 380 000kms to this Impala.
I don`t need any more proof. I`ve lived it.
The only reason I use synthetic in the KLX is that it flows much better cold than dino oils.
#25
07-24-2014, 05:14 PM
I'm still going to contend that quality synthetic oils are better for a wet clutch/shared tranny system like many motorcycles. The synthetic oil molecule chains survive better when having to do double duty as a trans lube. Most car engines, with some exceptions of course, don't have as hostile an evironment.
#26
07-24-2014, 07:44 PM
I'm still going to contend that quality synthetic oils are better for a wet clutch/shared tranny system like many motorcycles. The synthetic oil molecule chains survive better when having to do double duty as a trans lube. Most car engines, with some exceptions of course, don't have as hostile an evironment.
Of course that is part of why I do the MA oil, Additives not legal or not present in car oils.
I will say the Mobil1 in the old 83 Gold Wing made the clutch disengage quicker/easier, no more lurching forward three feet when clicking it into first when cold. The shifting was easier too, with a big honking 700 lb bike being yanked around by that gearbox.
#27
08-07-2014, 12:50 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 38
I think it's great this thread generated so much response. I have put over 1500 miles on my bike since I added the Motorkote last month. Shifting is still great, MPG is still up, and the engine still runs quiet. I will keep updating as I continue to put on the miles.
#28
12-22-2014, 11:54 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 38
OK, so it's the end of the 2014 riding season here in Michigan. I put almost 3000 miles on the bike since adding the Motorkote. Shifting is still great, MPG is still up, and the engine purrs like never before.
And one other thing, the cold starting problem is GONE. It used to be if I let my bike sit for more than a few days without starting it, it wouldn't start (unless I ran the carb dry). Now, I can let the bike sit for weeks and it starts on the first push of the starter, even without running the carb dry.
My brother-in-law added the Motorkote to his Honda trike, and his mileage went up, as well. He also says the engine runs smoother and quieter than ever before.
And one other thing, the cold starting problem is GONE. It used to be if I let my bike sit for more than a few days without starting it, it wouldn't start (unless I ran the carb dry). Now, I can let the bike sit for weeks and it starts on the first push of the starter, even without running the carb dry.
My brother-in-law added the Motorkote to his Honda trike, and his mileage went up, as well. He also says the engine runs smoother and quieter than ever before.
#30
12-26-2014, 12:29 PM
OK, so it's the end of the 2014 riding season here in Michigan. I put almost 3000 miles on the bike since adding the Motorkote. Shifting is still great, MPG is still up, and the engine purrs like never before.
And one other thing, the cold starting problem is GONE. It used to be if I let my bike sit for more than a few days without starting it, it wouldn't start (unless I ran the carb dry). Now, I can let the bike sit for weeks and it starts on the first push of the starter, even without running the carb dry.
My brother-in-law added the Motorkote to his Honda trike, and his mileage went up, as well. He also says the engine runs smoother and quieter than ever before.
And one other thing, the cold starting problem is GONE. It used to be if I let my bike sit for more than a few days without starting it, it wouldn't start (unless I ran the carb dry). Now, I can let the bike sit for weeks and it starts on the first push of the starter, even without running the carb dry.
My brother-in-law added the Motorkote to his Honda trike, and his mileage went up, as well. He also says the engine runs smoother and quieter than ever before.
Interesting how an oil additive is curing fuel issues.
Is it added to the gas? I've dealt with the gas issue for years with the 650. Seems the poor quality fuel we have now will break down enough in a week to the point where it won't light with a match. Takes a couple weeks to a month to cause the 550 to start hard. A drain of the carbs solves this issue virtually instantly. How does the stuff get in your gas to stop this issue?