Congrats!

 

At the shop we used to tell everyone to turn off their gas and drain their carbs in the fall, but I no longer do that. The stuck float needle is why.

I never used to either turn off the gas or drain the carb because I rode virtually year around often enough that I didn't need to do so, I just drained the carb. But when I moved to Columbus area I didn't ride enough in the winter due to job location and it just plain sucks when the roads are flat and boring. So a few years back. I turned off my gas and drained the carb. That spring my needle stuck. The dry aluminum with whatever was in the gas or the moisture that could get in corroded the needle/body, sticking them.

I no longer do that. I leave the gas on relying on the float needle to do its job. If gas evaporates a bit, it fills up. I put StaBil in the gas, but don't trust it will help the gas in the float bowl. In the spring I drain the float bowl and the bike starts fine. No more stuck needles. The gas will not dry out in the float bowl either, having a constant supply as needed.

 

I guess it depends on the carburetor. My other bike, a klr650 will have it's jets clogged up within a couple of weeks if gas is left in the bowl, regardless of any fuel stabilizer I've tried. I got used to running the fuel out of the bowl and turning off the petcock and the needle valve was never a problem. When I got the klx i stuck with the same routine. I've gotten to know my new bike a little better anyhow.

 

The best method I've seen for insuring against fuel residue causing needle and jet clogging and sticking during storage is to drain the fuel bowl. Then close the drain screw, unhook the fuel line from the petcock, and spray or squeeze Chemtool B12 into the fuel line until it is full. Depending on storage time, all the B12 may evaporate, but it will not leave any problematic residue under any condition. In fact this method can often clear a pilot jet clog if left to soak in the carb bowl overnight without carb disassembly.

I've noticed the same issue as cleandirt on the KLR650 being about the easiest and quickest bike to clog a pilot jet that I know of...not sure why as its pilot jet is not a particularly small orifice. I've used that B12 overnight trick in the fuel bowl to clear a clogged pilot on all 4 of the KLR600/650's I've owned over the years...quite a few times.

On the other hand, I've never had a clog in any carbed motorcycle, lawn tractor, or other vehicle in which I remembered to put a fuel stabilizer...usually Chemtool's version. Problem was that I usually forgot or just got lazy.

 

Do you shut off the gas? If so the fuel is drying out and leaving residue in the carb. That is why I don't shut the gas off. The only time I turn off the gas is when transporting the bike, otherwise it is on. Then I just drain the carb because my 650 has never started if the gas in the carb is over about 5 days old. From 1710 miles to over 45,000 miles never starts with week old gas.

When the bike sits evaporated gas is replaced from the tank. 20 years, no problem until I drained the carb dry.

 

I've got the stock vacuum operated petcock on my 650 so if the bike's not running the gas is effectively shut off. It would be interesting to disable the vacuum shutoff part of the petcock and try your method. Then if it didn't work for me I could try TNC's B12 in the bowl trick to clean it up. I'd be happy if either trick worked for me, removing and cleaning carburetors is not my favorite way to spend time.

 

There is a kit that is usually widely available from different sources that allows you to make the vacuum petcock a manual with just 2-3 minor parts...it's usually cheap too. On KLRWorld site there used to be a guy named "Hurricane" who sold such a kit, but I think there are others too. I had the kit on my last two 650's. Easy to install.