Lowering my KLX250.

  #1  
Old 02-11-2014, 01:53 PM
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Default Lowering my KLX250.

I love this bike. But, I do want it just a tad lower. I'm 5'6 at 210. I love the ride and enjoy riding it out on the roads and even the highway. Will no wind I can get it up to 81. I just got my 1000 Miles in. So, once the snow clears up and spring pops out I wanna go get my fluids changed. So, does anyone have any tips on lowering the bike a bit? I'm looking at 1-2 inches.


P.S: Side question. But, can anyone do wheelies on there KLX 250 not from natural. I can't seem to pop it up in 1st or 2nd. I have a feeling my suspension is def to lose. But, it helps due to me being able to touch my feet on the ground a bit. Thanks!
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:09 PM
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you can remove the seat cover and shave down the seat about an inch. staple the cover back on.

and/or, loosen the fork clamps and raise the fork to lower front about 1" max. longer dog bones (about $30) to lower the rear an 1" or little more

but, at 5'6" i would ride it at stock height..
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:16 PM
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I can ride it at stock height. I haven't taken this off the pavement yet. I'm always just sitting on 1 leg or 2 tiipy toes. I'd like to sit flat footed though. So, to feel more secure I suppose. Idk how to shave a seat but, I guess I can look that up.
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:57 PM
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Seat concepts has a lower profile seat cover kit. Much much more comfortable than stock and wider( no more monkey butt), I have one at stock height. Its easy reskinning and installing the new foam and cover. It took me 30 minutes start to finish
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:08 PM
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:33 PM
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if you want to keep your seat stock and have option to raise it back to stock later, 2009-2012 Kawasaki KLX250 S, SF Raising, Lowering Links - $21.50 : burkhartcycle.com, Motorcycle Parts and Accessories ...best price for lowering links....

super easy to lower...motorcycle jack is handy....raise enough to get the rear wheel off...lower it back down just enough for the rear wheel to touch the ground...unbolt the stock dogbones...grease and bolt in the new one...same for front forks...have the front wheel just touch the ground and loosen the clamp bolts...lower about a inch, but don't let the fork touch your handlebar....tighten the clamp bolts...

 

Last edited by ahnh666; 02-11-2014 at 04:37 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-11-2014, 08:35 PM
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Shaped my seat foam with a hacksaw blade and belt sander. My mistake was belt sanding inside the garage, the foam dust sticks to everything. Finally popped for Seat Concepts foam and seat cover kit, staples up to the stock seat pan. Better foam, a good hour more ride time before discomfort starts. Been 4 years, foam and cover in very good shape.
 
  #8  
Old 02-11-2014, 08:38 PM
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Lowered mine for the same reason, 5'6" 29" inseam and 175lbs. Installed the lower seat concepts seat, dropped the front forks and installed 2" Kouba Links. Lowering the rear is probably not a great idea for anyone over 200lbs as chain roller will rub and destroy itself. Max I would go for you is 1" lowering link but personnally I would try the seat and forks first. Must say it is reassuring to get your feet planted, especially on tough single track with knarly climbs. Good luck!
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:14 PM
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You might also consider re-springing your bike as well for your weight.
 
  #10  
Old 02-11-2014, 09:40 PM
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If you have flat stock and a drill press you can make a set of links on the cheap. Here is how to know how long:
  • Raise the bike up using a hydraulic jack and board under the chassis, until the wheels are just touching.
  • Measure from the axle to the frame for a reference distance.
  • Remove the links
  • carefully lower the bike until it is at the level you want (you can use the reference measurement to know how much it is lowered, because you aren't accounting for suspension sag in this.
  • measure the distance from link bolt to link bolt
  • cut flat stock to adequate length
  • mark and drill flat stock
  • file and clean up the new links you just made and paint them
  • put them on and remove the jack.
I've known several people who have done this. Mild steel of similar thickness should work fine for the application.

You could even drill a couple of locations to use by taking measurements at say 1", 2", and 3" then drill the flat stock with the three holes.
 

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