Light tick sound?
#1
Light tick sound?
2014 with 1600 miles. I have noticed a little tick sound that is not consistent. Kinda a tick hear tick there or a few in a row type of sound. This is only at idle. Bike will rev out and ride as normal. Not to concerned but curious if other have noticed and maybe know what it is. I am thinking the ACR ? Thoughts? Thanks
#2
It could be the cam chain tensioner. The OEM one is supposed to automatically adjust itself but many, myself included, have replaced it with Krieger's Cam Tensioner. As soon as I did the ticking I'd hear at idle went away.
Here's a link to it...
KLX250/300
Here's a link to it...
KLX250/300
Last edited by Brieninsac; 06-28-2016 at 03:48 PM.
#3
It could be the cam chain tensioner. The OEM one is supposed to automatically adjust itself but many, myself included, have replaced it with Krieger's Cam Tensioner. As soon as I did the ticking I'd hear at idle went away.
Here's a link to it...
KLX250/300
Here's a link to it...
KLX250/300
#5
There's been others who've noticed the slight tick at idle with nothing at the classic 5-6000 rpm range. Then later they did get the 5-6000 rpm range clatter. I think mine did it, but the bike was used and I wasn't paying too much attention until the higher rev clatter started.
#9
If you notice the ticking from the right side, especially around 4000-6000 rpm it is a good likelihood the tensioner has hit a spot where it doesn't quite seat and starts to kick back and forth. You can actually test it while sitting still. Just bring the bike up until it makes the noise then listen where the sound is coming from. Under the tank clear from either side it may be valves are to the loose side on clearance.
If you bring the engine up to TDC compression and follow the process for removing and resetting the tensioner, you can pull the OEM tensioner and look for the evidence. It shows in a wear pattern on the teeth of the tensioner plunger rack and, over time, as a polishing of the shaft opposite the teeth. I have some pictures on my web site. You can put the tensioner back in and run it for a while longer if you want/need the bike. It takes time for the failing tensioner to get to the point where it will start causing excess wear. Let it go way too long and eventually the slack can allow the chain to jump on the crank. I've read of one rider and actually dealt with two riders who had that happen - bent valves and other damage. But that is not an immediate thing. Takes a lot of riding. So you have time. Mine had 15,000 on it when I swapped out to the manual tensioner.
I will say it has never been about selling a bunch of tensioners, rather it's about providing a reasonable priced part to help keep bikes working properly, if needed.
If you bring the engine up to TDC compression and follow the process for removing and resetting the tensioner, you can pull the OEM tensioner and look for the evidence. It shows in a wear pattern on the teeth of the tensioner plunger rack and, over time, as a polishing of the shaft opposite the teeth. I have some pictures on my web site. You can put the tensioner back in and run it for a while longer if you want/need the bike. It takes time for the failing tensioner to get to the point where it will start causing excess wear. Let it go way too long and eventually the slack can allow the chain to jump on the crank. I've read of one rider and actually dealt with two riders who had that happen - bent valves and other damage. But that is not an immediate thing. Takes a lot of riding. So you have time. Mine had 15,000 on it when I swapped out to the manual tensioner.
I will say it has never been about selling a bunch of tensioners, rather it's about providing a reasonable priced part to help keep bikes working properly, if needed.
Last edited by klx678; 07-03-2016 at 07:26 PM.
#10
I would swap it out. It's not a lot of $ and is a very well made part.
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