2009
Lid-less
Uni filter
Non-MCM
K158
FMF Q4 with PB

I tried the two Keihin needles I have while running lid-less.

Stock (NNLA): It worked pretty well -- good power from 6k all the way up to the rev limit. It felt slightly lean (buzzy), but with good power and good throttle response.

N1TC-1: Richer than stock I think too rich for best lid-less performance -- ran pretty rich cold and had to be fully warmed up with multiple full throttle 3-4-5 gear runs up my test hill to get of hicups. Moved peak torque about 1000rpm to the right. Made good power from 7k to rev limit, but I seemed to hit the rev limit a lot more than with stock needle.

If I had to choose between the two I would go with the stock needle and shim it to see if that made any difference. But, since I have a DJ 228 needle I don't have to choose. After closer examination the DJ needle looks to be an adjustable NNLA.

 

Pika, outstanding non MCM information.. I have some comments, most (or all) of which you likely are already fully aware of..

Is your slide lift hole back to standard ?

If so:
The NNLA will need the DJ spring on a standard lift hole. Is this the way you ran it ?

Overall NNLA length from bottom surface of the retainer to tip is 2.31" - DNO228 @ 1N, measured the same way is 2.301" overall. Practically identical and all the dia.'s (tapers) are close enough for the low/mid fueling to likely be a strictly lift hole/spring combo equation.. I chose the 228 over NNLA due to me wanting the slightly richer curve of the 228 feeding my MCM 's low/mid range but members are proving it works just as well on non-MCM applications..

If you add one DJ washer below the NNLA retainer, it'll be slightly shorter (2.289") than DNO228@1N.

 

You hitting the rev limiter with the N1TC is a good indication that it is allowing the engine to make superior power in the top end over the NNLA - I have experienced this "anomaly" myself - whereby your subconscious identifies shift points by sensing a power slackening up top - if power doesn't slacken, you hit the rev limiter before you realize the situation. BTW, this kind of powerband only occurs with a full exhaust system incorporating a larger-than-stock header+midpipe PLUS a proper induction setup to capitalize on the potential..

From your assertion that the N1TC seemed to move TRQ curve up 1k, plus the long warmup, it is surely overfueling your midrange.
It's not that the TRQ curve has moved, it's that overfueling the midrange has noticeably lessened TRQ production until engine speed raises enough to support the AFR being "dished out"... So it seems to "come alive" after a lackluster low/mid ...

I assume your using the N1TC on top notch with the washers above the clip ? (I know, for you it's a silly question but still important.) That would be the only usable N1TC config for what you're doing. After that, it's slide spring/lift hole combos that can keep low/mid AFR proper.. But the N1TC is soo short compared to NNLA & DNO228.

 

Alrite, I'm done editing my two posts above.. I suk like that..

 

Klxster, thanks for the response.

Slide lift hole filled and drilled to 2.5mm. I ran the NNLA with the stock spring. I will try the DJ spring and a DJ washer under the NNLA -- changing one thing a time and then testing.

Yes, I tried the N1TC at its longest (leanest) setting -- clip in top slot and oem spacer above the clip with the stock spring and stock lift hole diameter. Is there a way to get proper low/mid AFR with the N1TC for my setup? Has anyone tried the KLX300 needle jet 16017-1368? The AU Kawasaki service bulletin calls out to replace the needle jet when replacing the N1RX with the N1TC.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...erences-28608/

 

N1TC - Its' failure @1N with stock hole and stock spring indicates it is not a viable candidate for full exhaust, lidless, with a main jet sized for best performance. This is no surprise. It is too short, therefore too "quick" in this application.

NNLA - Once you retest with the DJ spring, you'll likely never look back. Adding DJ washers under its' retainer will simply slide its' fuel curve to the left in the RPM range -so doing so is "fine tunning".. Remember, any needle is "done" with fueling duties at 6.5-7k @ WOT - after which is strictly main jet..

There is ZERO data concerning changing out the needle jet. If I had detailed measurements of the stock and suggested replacement, I could render an opinion of probable effects..

 

Oh, of course, the 228 @ 1N will fuel correctly also. One thing I can't remember is if I tried it with the stock spring. The stock spring would "slow" down or lengthen it's fuel curve - stretching it a little on the RPM scale. Perhaps just what your non-MCM wants?