KLX250s FAQ and links
#13
05-09-2010, 05:52 PM
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++DRC foot pegs
Order Details:
DRC foot pegs
I am frugal.
I searched around for the cheapest price and I found these DCR foot pegs.
They work great for normal woods riding. Much better than stock pegs.
They are not high end pegs, but do the trick for me.
www.d2moto.com
Code Item Qty Price Total
FP022 1994-2007 Kawasaki KLX 250 300R 650 Foot Pegs
1 $15.90 $15.90
Sub Total: $15.90
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $8.40
Grand Total: $24.30
Note: Prices vary from lows of $15 to $25 shipped
http://motorcycle-accessories.d2moto...earch?w=FP022+
I just spoke with Bill Blue. He had a special header and pipe made up just for his 351 and he said it added 4 hp to his. He's at 34+ at the rear wheel now. I'm going to wait till Feb for it and was hoping to help the exhaust out just a bit now.
. . . my plan is to bring back the 351, ported head, FCR carb, this new "special pipe" & header all at the same time.
It's interesting looking at the numbers compared to my 690 enduro. Cycle world tested it at 48 hp to the rear wheel and the KLX 250 at 16. (Interesting also - the duke with the same engine did 0-60 in 3.2 and the KLX in 9.6 seconds). So stock my KLX has a 1/3 the HP of the 690; I'm hoping to transform it to 2/3 the HP.
The KLX has a lot of advantages over the 690. Wider tranny, smoother engine, more reliable, simpler to work on and the 2006/7 version is 40 lbs less (25 lbs less for the newer KLX). Already with my 16 hp engine I would rather be on the KLX in the jungle (40 lbs is huge +) and on a long FLAT freeway trip. Keeping the throttle pinned on the KLX is smoother & less tiring than 1/3 throttle on the KTM. That's about 70 mph for both. Of course the KLX's speed falls going up hill and the KTM's certainly doesn't. At 70 mph though it is nice to hit the throttle and accelerate hard up to about 88 and then slowly climb to 105 ish compared to just realizing you've been pinning it for the last 20 minutes
All that to say I think the KLX 250 has the potential to be one of the best light adventure bikes. You know... throw some of the new KX250 forks/Ohlins shock tuned to you, good lighting, subframe...
. . . my plan is to bring back the 351, ported head, FCR carb, this new "special pipe" & header all at the same time.
It's interesting looking at the numbers compared to my 690 enduro. Cycle world tested it at 48 hp to the rear wheel and the KLX 250 at 16. (Interesting also - the duke with the same engine did 0-60 in 3.2 and the KLX in 9.6 seconds). So stock my KLX has a 1/3 the HP of the 690; I'm hoping to transform it to 2/3 the HP.
The KLX has a lot of advantages over the 690. Wider tranny, smoother engine, more reliable, simpler to work on and the 2006/7 version is 40 lbs less (25 lbs less for the newer KLX). Already with my 16 hp engine I would rather be on the KLX in the jungle (40 lbs is huge +) and on a long FLAT freeway trip. Keeping the throttle pinned on the KLX is smoother & less tiring than 1/3 throttle on the KTM. That's about 70 mph for both. Of course the KLX's speed falls going up hill and the KTM's certainly doesn't. At 70 mph though it is nice to hit the throttle and accelerate hard up to about 88 and then slowly climb to 105 ish compared to just realizing you've been pinning it for the last 20 minutes
All that to say I think the KLX 250 has the potential to be one of the best light adventure bikes. You know... throw some of the new KX250 forks/Ohlins shock tuned to you, good lighting, subframe...
Cycleworld thought the KTM EXC350 blew the Husky away. Bottom line though is both the Husky and KTM are fragile, delicate machines in comparison to the KLX and need to be treated like a delicate flower .
I just did a 10K km trip on my 351 including venturing into the poorest country on the planet. I changed the oil every 5,000km whether it needed it or not, smashed into waves while riding on the beach (meant to wash the salt water off but forgot). Almost lost it in some quicksand and put it thru some nasty abuse to drag it out.
Cycleword, dirtrider etc can't really do tests of what's most important to many riders - reliabilty, for 2 reasons:
1.) It takes a long time to test for long term reliability.
2.) (More importantly) Probably less than 20% of the magazine's revenue comes from the cover price. Most of it comes from advertising of the bikes they would be testing creating a conflict of interest.
That being said, I think some of them have done it (intentionally ignored the reliability issue) for so long they are being honest when they say a KLR sucks but really are confused as to why more people buy them than any other dual sport... Don't they read our magazine? they ask scratching their heads...
I didn't get the KLX because it was cheaper than a KTM. I'd be happy to pay twice as much as say a KTM 450EXC for a bike that:
a. Was up to 15 lbs heavier.
b. Had only 85% of the power.
c. Had suspension just on par with the EXC.
d. BUT had an engine that lasted 10X longer with maintenance schedules at least 3X farther apart.
A bike like that doesn't exist and so many are trying to make one. I know many have the KLX because it is cheaper, but that's not all of us.
It's a common minconception that "racing" a bike proves its reliability. For example a guy does 5 hare scrambles and 2 enduros on a KTM and has no mechanical issues and so thinks the bike is "reliable". That's sissy territory!
That doesn't compare to droning freeway miles or commuting to work every day on a bike. (The way the vast majority of non Western countries use their motorcycle - commute everyday then play on the weekend.)
I just did a 10K km trip on my 351 including venturing into the poorest country on the planet. I changed the oil every 5,000km whether it needed it or not, smashed into waves while riding on the beach (meant to wash the salt water off but forgot). Almost lost it in some quicksand and put it thru some nasty abuse to drag it out.
Cycleword, dirtrider etc can't really do tests of what's most important to many riders - reliabilty, for 2 reasons:
1.) It takes a long time to test for long term reliability.
2.) (More importantly) Probably less than 20% of the magazine's revenue comes from the cover price. Most of it comes from advertising of the bikes they would be testing creating a conflict of interest.
That being said, I think some of them have done it (intentionally ignored the reliability issue) for so long they are being honest when they say a KLR sucks but really are confused as to why more people buy them than any other dual sport... Don't they read our magazine? they ask scratching their heads...
I didn't get the KLX because it was cheaper than a KTM. I'd be happy to pay twice as much as say a KTM 450EXC for a bike that:
a. Was up to 15 lbs heavier.
b. Had only 85% of the power.
c. Had suspension just on par with the EXC.
d. BUT had an engine that lasted 10X longer with maintenance schedules at least 3X farther apart.
A bike like that doesn't exist and so many are trying to make one. I know many have the KLX because it is cheaper, but that's not all of us.
It's a common minconception that "racing" a bike proves its reliability. For example a guy does 5 hare scrambles and 2 enduros on a KTM and has no mechanical issues and so thinks the bike is "reliable". That's sissy territory!
That doesn't compare to droning freeway miles or commuting to work every day on a bike. (The way the vast majority of non Western countries use their motorcycle - commute everyday then play on the weekend.)
The bike will start in gear as long as the clutch is pulled in. Check the switch on the clutch lever or as David said take it back and let the dealer fix it. Almost everyone disables the kickstand switch. Unbolt the switch, follow the wires up under the seat , unplug the two wires from the switch and then plug the two wires from the wire harness together.
Dan
Dan
oil filter change
I have been around motorcycle a long time, and I have seen people drive off with a sidestand down. I don't believe in bypassing the kickstand, but if your switch shorted out and you needed to get home, this is what you would need to do.
* Remove the seat
* Unbolt the switch from the kickstand and follow the wires up to where it plugs in under the seat.
* Disconnect this plug so that now the switch and wires are loose from the bike.
* Cut the wires between the kickstand switch and the connector, leaving a few inches of wire coming out of the connector.
* Strip the two wires and twist them together. I like to solder the wires together and cover in shrink wrap.
* Plug this "jumper" back into the connector under the seat.
Last edited by klasjm; 05-06-2012 at 03:08 PM.
#14
05-09-2010, 07:16 PM
Hey Jim , THANKS! I have been meaning to ask you for detail on these since you mentioned them at Leaf River. The stockers seem to work fine for me, but I'm curious about these. At that price it's worth trying them out.
Dan
Dan
#17
05-22-2011, 12:56 PM
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
KLX 250s
Valve Adjustment on the KLX250s
Ride The Rock, a Newfoundland and Labrador Adventure forum, Relic documented the process of adjusting KLX250S valves.
www.ridetherock.com - 2007 KLX250: Valve clearances/shim replacement
YouTube - ‪Short Ride on my KLX250S‬‏
Need advice on Handlebars?
Contains all previous handlebar links:
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...r-links-32588/
Ride The Rock, a Newfoundland and Labrador Adventure forum, Relic documented the process of adjusting KLX250S valves.
www.ridetherock.com - 2007 KLX250: Valve clearances/shim replacement
YouTube - ‪Short Ride on my KLX250S‬‏
Need advice on Handlebars?
Contains all previous handlebar links:
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...r-links-32588/
#18
11-09-2011, 01:02 AM
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
These bikes are set more for dirt than street in stead of street with a little dirt.
I have the 22mm wrench/spoon (MotionPro)(I think they're worth it, lighter and dual purpose). I'd probably have other sizes as well but already had the other nut sizes covered. I have a box end 19/27 six point that I picked up from Whitehorse Gear out of their KLR section. Got a 17mm six point at a jobber and cut off the open end portion. Other stuff I pack around: long tire lever, short tire lever. Compact multi meter, home made jumper cables, bead popper, bead buddy II, valve stem fishing tool. A few sockets/ratchet. Replaced some of the included wrenches with better ones. Haven't had to do much work on the bike to test the adequacy of the kit. I'll use only my kit to test for gaps in coverage.
I run a ThermoBob too. It causes the bike to warm up quicker, moves the thermostat to a better position, and has a bypass line resulting in a more consistent temperature of coolant entering the engine. I thought it would be good for my bike because my commute is only 5 miles, often in cooler/cold weather. An engine should heat up, not stay cold, and wide coolant temperature swings while running cannot be good. I also run a Vapor computer with the temperature sensor in the bypass line. The bike heats right up to 175 or so within the first mile. Read more here Watt_man on Xanga
At the risk of repeating a post....
Originally Posted by Originally Posted
7K miles on a KLX250SF,
Counter shaft endplay bad enough to hit the case.
Lost teeth on the cam chain sprocket on the crank,
the chain was still tight.
I'm having the shop do it, split cases are beyond my resource and skill set. They asked me to see if this had happened anywhere else.
Anybody?
Hope I'm wrong with this constructive criticism but this situation (Counter shaft endplay) could be the result of running the chain too tight -
when the rear suspension compresses
and the swingarm becomes more or totally parallel with the ground
it could tighten the chain to the point where it puts excessive strain on the countershaft sprocket.
When it comes to dirtbike chains too loose (to a point) is better than too tight.....
when the rear suspension compresses
and the swingarm becomes more or totally parallel with the ground
it could tighten the chain to the point where it puts excessive strain on the countershaft sprocket.
When it comes to dirtbike chains too loose (to a point) is better than too tight.....
Here's a little tutorial on valve clearance check and adjustment for a 2007 KLX250. This is not really a job for a beginner, but if you have faith in yourself, go for it. Not all bikes are like this and personally I think this has to be the worst system for valve adjustment. Invest in a good service manual - preferably the one from dealer. Don't rely on me because I may have missed something. My conscience is now clear. 
OK, first off, besides basic tools your gonna need a torque wrench (something that can do 8.5 ft-lbs) metric feeler gauges, and a good micrometer to do the shim replacement. If just doing clearance check, basic tools and feelers will do.
A note on feeler gauges: I bought myself a set that were metric only. I don't like using these sets with both metric and standard. They are usually standard sizes with metric conversions so you don't get exact metric numbers. But, that's just my preference.
First give the bike a good wash to remove all the dirt accumulated. You may notice that I never gave a good wash, but that's my choice. I did wipe down all critical areas and gave a good blast with air.
Next, remove seat, side guards, and fuel tank. In the next pic is what you'll see. I also removed wiring bracket (yellow arrow) and pulled the wires to one side. I also remove the ignition coil (red arrow) to have more room for cover removal.
Once thats taken care of things look a little better
In the pic above you can also see the 3 bolts holding the cover down. Remove these and carefully remove the cover. Careful with the gasket. You will now see two camshafts. Naturally, front is exhaust and rear is intake.
Next, remove both plugs on left side of engine case as indicated in the next pic. Top plug is where ya look for timing mark,bottom plug is where ya turn engine using 17 mm socket.
So, while turning the engine counter-clockwise look at the intake lobe of the intake cam. Watch it push down on the lifter then come back up. At this point look in the top plug of the case. Slowly turn CCW until you see a mark with the letter "T" stamped alongside of it. You'll actually see a mark with "F" first. The T is just after it. Looking thru the hole this is what you should see:
Looking at the cam lobe positions, the next pic shows what ya should see.
And if you look at the cam sprockets the timing marks should be level/inline with the top surface of the head like so:
Also note the mark "IN" is aft and the mark "EX" is forward. There are more marks present but the ones stated are the important ones.
This what everything will have to look like when finished re-assembling.
OK, now you can check the clearances. My intakes were good (0.15 mm), but exhaust was tight ( 0.14 mm)For my bike: the intake is 0,10mm - 0.19mm, exhaust is 0.15 mm - 0.24 mm. Anything outside this range will need to be adjusted accordingly. I knew mine were due for change. Last year I measured all my shims so I knew what to order. My originals are all 3.00 mm. So, I knew I needed 2.90 mm shims to bring me back in the upper range of the clearances. Got mine thru ebay for $5 each. Came by letter mail (the "Happy Riding" was a nice touch.
Shim replacement:
First step is to remove timing chain tension spring bolt and spring and then the 2 bolts for the mount. then pull the mount out. refer to next pic:
This is what the mount looks like when removed:
Important: tensioner must be reset. Lift up on the locking pawl (yellow arrow)) and push the tensioner rod fully in. Now it should now look like this:
Now comes the harder part: OK... so now we have to remove the camshaft cover. In the next pic you can see all 8 bolts loosened.
After removing bolts, cover can be removed. Next it would be a good idea to tie the timing chain off to some part of the bike to keep it from falling way down into the engine. Now you can remove the exhaust cam (if doing exh clearances). To remove cam its sorta of a tilt/tip/lift process. Thats about the only way I can explain it. With cam removed you can now take up one of the lifters. Only do one at a time to avoid mixing of parts. In the next pic you can see the valve spring where the shim sits once the lifter is removed. To the right you can see the other lifter still in place.
My shims stayed stuck to the underside of the lifter. Keep this in mind when removing lifter. Place hand under it as soon as possible to prevent dropping into the engine somewhere. Heres a pic of the bottom of the lifter and the shim alongside of it.
Measure this shim with the micrometers to figure out what shim is required to put back in. Place new shim on top of valve as indicated in a previous picture. Then place lifter back in place. Repeat for any other lifters/shims.
Once this is complete you can start reassembling. Getting the cams back in is a bit tricky. It will probably take a couple of tries. When all is right you should be at your original marks on the cam sprockets and flywheel as you set up earlier. If all looks well re-install cam cover. On the KLX the torqueing sequence is stamped in the cover. Also on the KLX bolts #1 and #6 are the two that are longer. The cover goes torqued to 8.5 ft-lbs (or 102 inch-lbs if you prefer). I like like to torque in steps rather than full torque right from the beginning.
Next you can install the cam tensioner mount and then the spring.
Now, very slowly using the flywheel turn engine by hand several revolutions. If at any time a resistance (besides compression) is felt "STOP" you may have screwed something up. Hopefully this doesn't happen. All is good... perfect. Re-assemble the rest of the bike. This would also be an ideal time to shuff in a new spark plug while it's easy to get at as well.
Happy Wrenchin'.
Relic.
OK, first off, besides basic tools your gonna need a torque wrench (something that can do 8.5 ft-lbs) metric feeler gauges, and a good micrometer to do the shim replacement. If just doing clearance check, basic tools and feelers will do.
A note on feeler gauges: I bought myself a set that were metric only. I don't like using these sets with both metric and standard. They are usually standard sizes with metric conversions so you don't get exact metric numbers. But, that's just my preference.
First give the bike a good wash to remove all the dirt accumulated. You may notice that I never gave a good wash, but that's my choice. I did wipe down all critical areas and gave a good blast with air.
Next, remove seat, side guards, and fuel tank. In the next pic is what you'll see. I also removed wiring bracket (yellow arrow) and pulled the wires to one side. I also remove the ignition coil (red arrow) to have more room for cover removal.
Once thats taken care of things look a little better
In the pic above you can also see the 3 bolts holding the cover down. Remove these and carefully remove the cover. Careful with the gasket. You will now see two camshafts. Naturally, front is exhaust and rear is intake.
Next, remove both plugs on left side of engine case as indicated in the next pic. Top plug is where ya look for timing mark,bottom plug is where ya turn engine using 17 mm socket.
So, while turning the engine counter-clockwise look at the intake lobe of the intake cam. Watch it push down on the lifter then come back up. At this point look in the top plug of the case. Slowly turn CCW until you see a mark with the letter "T" stamped alongside of it. You'll actually see a mark with "F" first. The T is just after it. Looking thru the hole this is what you should see:
Looking at the cam lobe positions, the next pic shows what ya should see.
And if you look at the cam sprockets the timing marks should be level/inline with the top surface of the head like so:
Also note the mark "IN" is aft and the mark "EX" is forward. There are more marks present but the ones stated are the important ones.
This what everything will have to look like when finished re-assembling.
OK, now you can check the clearances. My intakes were good (0.15 mm), but exhaust was tight ( 0.14 mm)For my bike: the intake is 0,10mm - 0.19mm, exhaust is 0.15 mm - 0.24 mm. Anything outside this range will need to be adjusted accordingly. I knew mine were due for change. Last year I measured all my shims so I knew what to order. My originals are all 3.00 mm. So, I knew I needed 2.90 mm shims to bring me back in the upper range of the clearances. Got mine thru ebay for $5 each. Came by letter mail (the "Happy Riding" was a nice touch.
Shim replacement:
First step is to remove timing chain tension spring bolt and spring and then the 2 bolts for the mount. then pull the mount out. refer to next pic:
This is what the mount looks like when removed:
Important: tensioner must be reset. Lift up on the locking pawl (yellow arrow)) and push the tensioner rod fully in. Now it should now look like this:
Now comes the harder part: OK... so now we have to remove the camshaft cover. In the next pic you can see all 8 bolts loosened.
After removing bolts, cover can be removed. Next it would be a good idea to tie the timing chain off to some part of the bike to keep it from falling way down into the engine. Now you can remove the exhaust cam (if doing exh clearances). To remove cam its sorta of a tilt/tip/lift process. Thats about the only way I can explain it. With cam removed you can now take up one of the lifters. Only do one at a time to avoid mixing of parts. In the next pic you can see the valve spring where the shim sits once the lifter is removed. To the right you can see the other lifter still in place.
My shims stayed stuck to the underside of the lifter. Keep this in mind when removing lifter. Place hand under it as soon as possible to prevent dropping into the engine somewhere. Heres a pic of the bottom of the lifter and the shim alongside of it.
Measure this shim with the micrometers to figure out what shim is required to put back in. Place new shim on top of valve as indicated in a previous picture. Then place lifter back in place. Repeat for any other lifters/shims.
Once this is complete you can start reassembling. Getting the cams back in is a bit tricky. It will probably take a couple of tries. When all is right you should be at your original marks on the cam sprockets and flywheel as you set up earlier. If all looks well re-install cam cover. On the KLX the torqueing sequence is stamped in the cover. Also on the KLX bolts #1 and #6 are the two that are longer. The cover goes torqued to 8.5 ft-lbs (or 102 inch-lbs if you prefer). I like like to torque in steps rather than full torque right from the beginning.
Next you can install the cam tensioner mount and then the spring.
Now, very slowly using the flywheel turn engine by hand several revolutions. If at any time a resistance (besides compression) is felt "STOP" you may have screwed something up. Hopefully this doesn't happen. All is good... perfect. Re-assemble the rest of the bike. This would also be an ideal time to shuff in a new spark plug while it's easy to get at as well.
Happy Wrenchin'.
Relic.
Last edited by klasjm; 07-22-2012 at 04:37 PM.
#19
11-09-2011, 08:26 AM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 327
Valve Adjustment on the KLX250s
Ride The Rock, a Newfoundland and Labrador Adventure forum, Relic documented the process of adjusting KLX250S valves.
www.ridetherock.com - 2007 KLX250: Valve clearances/shim replacement
Ride The Rock, a Newfoundland and Labrador Adventure forum, Relic documented the process of adjusting KLX250S valves.
www.ridetherock.com - 2007 KLX250: Valve clearances/shim replacement
Just seen this now.......I feel honored.
I also did the exact write up here as well.
Here's the link to the thread on this forum: Valve adjustment
Last edited by Klxrelic; 11-09-2011 at 08:28 AM.
#20
01-29-2012, 05:25 AM
Great Maintenance and Mod Threads
Here's a collection of some of my favorite maintenance and modification threads and links. klajsm's thread seems to be a good place for it:
Popular Free / Cheap Mods
Fork Oil ChangeFork ValvesShock and Fork Revalve
UFO KX Fork Guards
Replacing Keyed Ignition Switch (e.g., with a toggle or aftermarket or other model)
Power sources (e.g., GPS, heated gear, phone, charger, etc)
Mikuni TM36-68 pumper / accelerator carb
Keihin FCR MX Flat Side Carb
Jetting Spreadsheet
Air Filter Test
How to fit aftermarket bars
Longer Clutch and Throttle Cables (for tall bars, bar risers, pumper carb)
Performance Exhaust ChoicesShifter Shaft Seal ReplacementFirst gear gone / bent shift pinClutch Plates and Springs, Dec 2011EBC:
Plates only
CK4469
EBC Replacement Clutch Plate Set
A direct replacement for the OEM unit made with an impregnated "cork" based lining that emulates the stock unit, but enhances clutch feel and lifetime.
Price: $68.00
Dirt Racer rebuild
DRC212
EBC Dirt Racer Clutch Rebuild Kit
The perfect clutch rebuild for every ATV and MX bike, featuring a complete engine set of friction plates with upgrade clutch springs and pin planished steel separator plates. These wear longer than the stock alloy units, prevent "muddying" of the lube system and increase engine flywheel effect, actually improving engine performance due to the slightly heavier component mass of the steel plate set. Being a complete rebuild kit, the DRC set completely re-sets the all important stack height to its original dimensions whereas simply replacing plates can lead to the same slippage problems.
Price: $73.00
Barnett:
Year 2006-12
Model KLX250S
Friction Plates (Qty.) 301-45-10003(7)
Tempered Steel Metal Plates (Qty.) 401-45-063008(6)
Spring Kits 501-25-06043
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
from the 2009 manual:
Vapor Computer
The KLX handles well right out of the box, but anybody over 135 pounds will find it too soft in the front and too stiff in the rear. To get the suspension correct for your weight and riding style, you'll have to measure and adjust both Sag and Dampening. Sag is determined by preload and spring rate, which primarily affect how your suspension handles the big stuff, whereas dampening primarily affects how it handles the small stuff. But there is considerable overlap, and when they work together properly, you get both comfort and control over a wide range of riding conditions. You’ll be better able to adjust your suspension correctly if you first understand how it was designed to operate and can identify symptoms of incorrect operation. So checkout... Suspension Basics before you jump into the sag adjustments. It's also recommended that you.. Service Your Swingarm before adjusting the suspension. Once you've got sag correct, continue with... Adjust Your Dampening
Sag Adjustments
Rider sag, also called "race" sag, is the amount the bike sags under its weight and yours during static conditions from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your Rider sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. Most suspension experts recommend a race sag equal to 1/3 the bikes travel. On the KLX-300, that's about 3-5/8 inch, or 92 mm. Most KLXers will therefore find that a static sag somewhere between 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions. Bike sag, also called "free" sag, is the distance the suspension sags without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your Rider sag correct, Bike sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check Bike sag after you set your Race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both.
STEP 1 => MEASURE ZERO SAG...
Put your bike on a stand
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender.
Record this value as M0... ________
STEP 2 => MEASURE RIDER SAG...
Take your bike off the stand
Put on your riding gear
Take a standing position
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M1... ________
Subtract M1 from M0... ________
This is your RIDER SAG. If it's between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 4. If it's not, continue with Step 3...
STEP 3 => ADJUST PRELOAD...
Put your bike on a stand
Lubricate threads on shock body
If rider sag is less than 90 mm...
Move rings up shock body (ccw)
If more than 100 mm
Move rings down shock body (cw)
Repeat Steps 2 & 3 until you've got 90-100mm, then continue with Step 4...
STEP 4 => MEASURE BIKE SAG...
With your rider sag now correct
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M2... ________
Subtract M2 from M0... ________
This is your BIKE SAG, and if it's between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. This is cool, very cool. Take a test ride, then... Adjust Your Dampening
If you can't get rider and bike sag correct, you've got the wrong spring. Goto Install the Correct Spring to fix this problem, then repeat steps 1-4...
Install the Correct Rear Spring
The KLX handles well right out of the box, but anybody over 135 pounds will find it too soft in the front, and anybody under 185 pounds will find it too stiff in the rear. And the best way to determine the correct spring for your weight and riding style is to measure and adjust Sag. Once you've got sag correct, then you can fine tune your KLX with... Dampening Adjustments
OK, so you measured and adjusted your sag, but couldn't get correct values for both rider sag and bike sag, so chances are good that you've got the wrong spring for your riding weight. Let's take a closer look at this problem...
Scenario #1 => You adjusted the shock preload for the correct Rider Sag, then measured a Bike Sag of less than 25mm. This means your spring is too soft for your riding weight. Yeah, it sounds backwards, but here's what happened: to get your Rider (Race) Sag correct, you set the preload higher than it would have been with the correct (stiffer) spring. So the bike sags less than the recommended value under its own weight.
Scenario #2 => You adjusted the shock preload for the correct Rider Sag, then measured a Bike Sag of more than 35mm. This means your spring is too stiff for your riding weight. Here's what happened: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight.
And here's the fix for either case => goto... RaceTech.com and checkout the recommended spring rates for your bike, riding style and riding weight. Buy the spring and install it, then recheck your Rider and Bike sag, and adjust as necessary. Here's how to get that new spring installed...
Remove the swingarm with Service Your Swingarm
Remove the lower shock mounting bolt
Swing the shock toward the rear of the bike
[or remove side panels, seat & upper mounting
bolt, then remove the shock from the bike]
Lubricate the threads on the shock body
Loosen the preload adjusting rings
Move both to the top of the shock body
Remove the lower retaining cup
(don't scratch the shaft!)
Pull the old spring off & install the new one
Put everything back together again
Re-adjust your preload with Sag Adjustments
Fine tune with Dampening Adjustments
.
Popular Free / Cheap Mods
- DirtSurfer's Mod Day: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ompleted-8886/
- note - the crank case vent mod may be of little to no benefit; think twice.
- Front Wheel Bearing Change by Dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/changing-wheel-bearings-37147/
- Front Wheel Maintenance by Klxrelic: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/2007-klx250-front-wheel-maintenance-37177/
Fork Oil ChangeFork ValvesShock and Fork Revalve
- Arctra: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/%5Baus%5D-diy-shock-fork-revalve-service-42209/
- zomby woof: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...le-info-31135/
- '06/'07 dogbone stock length is 117 mm
- '09+ dogbone stock length is 119.5 mm
UFO KX Fork Guards
- dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...cements-31419/
- Guido: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-guards-30378/
- clgdswr: (see post #4) https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...working-38127/
- I used a SPDT (single pole double throw, on-on) switch with two positions: fan on & fan automatic. Positions 1 & 3 in the diagram with no position 2. The switch in the diagram is SPTT (single pole triple throw).
Replacing Keyed Ignition Switch (e.g., with a toggle or aftermarket or other model)
- redpillar: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...removal-34276/
- jhoffy22: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...gnition-38139/
- Nathan: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-needed-41514/
Power sources (e.g., GPS, heated gear, phone, charger, etc)
- Brieninsac: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-switch-38354/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-source-41886/
- dpippin: Tips & Tricks
- This is a pretty good site for other mods as well. The best I've seen for backfire screen removal. Well done, Doug.
- Finger Mullet: Kickstarter Install w/pics (also linked above)
- LaurenOE: Join the Kick Starter Elite - How to See her link to: KLX250s Kickstarter
- Mine: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...e2/#post460909
- AdventuresinRealLife: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-07-klx-42622/
- Just Gas Tanks KLX250 Acerbis Fuel Tank Just Gas Tanks.com
- GSNORCAL: Install pics for a 2009 KLX
- Redpillar: Klx 250/300 Acerbis tank How to get all the fuel out of it mod
- Interesting Threads: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...reviews-36806/, https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-tanks-35194/, https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-3-7gal-32527/
- HMF Engineering: Carb Removal Instructions
- As of last check, this thread is no longer available at HMF.
- dpippen carb removal: Carburetor Removal
- I like to remove the rear brake reservoir and instead of removing cables just remove the bracket holding cables.
- Replace JIS (phillips-type) screws with allen head.
- Factory Pro: CV Carb Tuning
- pilot jets N424-25-#38 kawi part no 92064-1050; N424-25-#40 part no 92064-1108
- BigSky_KLX posts: Jet Conversion Chart for Keihin, DynoJet, Mikuni
- One member says his conversation with DJ engineers indicate that the sizes are not comparable due to DJ jets venturi design. Comparison may not be valid. YMMV.
- kansas-klx: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...53/#post466405
- Illking tuning spreadsheet: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/klx250s-sf-tuning-spreadsheet-39762/
- Care and Feeding of the CVK Carb: Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb
- Enrichment Jet Threads: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...t-drill-35118/
- KACR & Cold Starting (good thread): https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...tarting-37193/
- Stalling after WOT #1: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...n-30min-41322/
- Stalling after WOT #2: KLX250S cuts out and won't run after WOT - ADVrider
- neonarc: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...replace-43126/
- Dynojet Kit: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-klx250-43779/
Mikuni TM36-68 pumper / accelerator carb
- TNC TM36 and Acerbis Tank Pt I: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...is-tank-38832/
- IDRIDR TM36 and Acerbis Tank Pt II: Cable Length: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-length-41551/
- Planet KLX: Hop-Ups:* 36mm Mikuni Pumper Carb Install
- Tuning manual: http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-pumper-36718/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...rs-help-36647/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...uestion-36270/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...klx250s-13648/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...e-351-a-35388/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...87/#post504088
- Richard Avatar: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ck-bore-41373/
Keihin FCR MX Flat Side Carb
Jetting Spreadsheet
Air Filter Test
- haroldbawlzangya: Air filter test | HBR
- kriegercamchaintensioners.com
- Krieger cam chain adjuster installed
- Good Cam Chain Links https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...73/#post474010
How to fit aftermarket bars
Longer Clutch and Throttle Cables (for tall bars, bar risers, pumper carb)
- EDIT MARCH 2014 - THIS MAY (???) ONLY APPLY FOR 2009+ MODELS, not 2006/07. I find the KLX300 cable is actually 1" shorter than my stock 2006 cable. EDIT JANUARY 2015 - griffo1962 on ADV reported a KLX300 cable was only 1/4" longer than his stock 2012 cable. EDIT FEBRUARY 2015 - Zeno reports a KLX300 cable worked for his '06 https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...33/#post518434
- Gary C: You could have used the Kawasaki KLX300 cable which is much cheaper, and factory length is 2" longer than KLX250s. 2" longer clutch cable (#54011-0009)
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-cables-39579/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...h-cable-39121/
- FlyingFinn: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...7-bikes-34958/
- This thread includes my findings on KLR650 cables (pre-'08 is +2 inches, '08+ is +4 inches).
- GBAUTO (2012 model): https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-cables-42510/
Performance Exhaust ChoicesShifter Shaft Seal ReplacementFirst gear gone / bent shift pinClutch Plates and Springs, Dec 2011EBC:
Plates only
CK4469
EBC Replacement Clutch Plate Set
A direct replacement for the OEM unit made with an impregnated "cork" based lining that emulates the stock unit, but enhances clutch feel and lifetime.
Price: $68.00
Dirt Racer rebuild
DRC212
EBC Dirt Racer Clutch Rebuild Kit
The perfect clutch rebuild for every ATV and MX bike, featuring a complete engine set of friction plates with upgrade clutch springs and pin planished steel separator plates. These wear longer than the stock alloy units, prevent "muddying" of the lube system and increase engine flywheel effect, actually improving engine performance due to the slightly heavier component mass of the steel plate set. Being a complete rebuild kit, the DRC set completely re-sets the all important stack height to its original dimensions whereas simply replacing plates can lead to the same slippage problems.
Price: $73.00
Barnett:
Year 2006-12
Model KLX250S
Friction Plates (Qty.) 301-45-10003(7)
Tempered Steel Metal Plates (Qty.) 401-45-063008(6)
Spring Kits 501-25-06043
- taxonomy's clutch notes: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...h-notes-41905/
- Clutch Spring Bolt Torque Spec (29 in-lb): https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ue-spec-38382/
- IDRIDR: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...351-0-a-36944/
- dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-links-32538/
- armycopter: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...351-mod-31703/
- MrDuhfactor:
- B & B Cycle Restoration (Bill Blue web site): Home Page
- ADV thread: 350 cc big bore kit for KLX250, Ready to ship!! - ADVrider
- Discussions and various torque/power curve comparisons: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...estions-37339/
- https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...numbers-38674/
- work - took the bike to the dyno: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ke-dyno-33182/
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
from the 2009 manual:
Vapor Computer
- highbeam: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...75/#post492376
- Arctra: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...klx250s-34253/
- TNC: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...irflyer-40415/
- Bruce's Suspension / brucessuspension: https://sites.google.com/site/brucessuspension/
- planetklx: KLX SAG ADJUSTMENTS
The KLX handles well right out of the box, but anybody over 135 pounds will find it too soft in the front and too stiff in the rear. To get the suspension correct for your weight and riding style, you'll have to measure and adjust both Sag and Dampening. Sag is determined by preload and spring rate, which primarily affect how your suspension handles the big stuff, whereas dampening primarily affects how it handles the small stuff. But there is considerable overlap, and when they work together properly, you get both comfort and control over a wide range of riding conditions. You’ll be better able to adjust your suspension correctly if you first understand how it was designed to operate and can identify symptoms of incorrect operation. So checkout... Suspension Basics before you jump into the sag adjustments. It's also recommended that you.. Service Your Swingarm before adjusting the suspension. Once you've got sag correct, continue with... Adjust Your Dampening
Sag Adjustments
Rider sag, also called "race" sag, is the amount the bike sags under its weight and yours during static conditions from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your Rider sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. Most suspension experts recommend a race sag equal to 1/3 the bikes travel. On the KLX-300, that's about 3-5/8 inch, or 92 mm. Most KLXers will therefore find that a static sag somewhere between 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions. Bike sag, also called "free" sag, is the distance the suspension sags without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your Rider sag correct, Bike sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check Bike sag after you set your Race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both.
STEP 1 => MEASURE ZERO SAG...
Put your bike on a stand
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender.
Record this value as M0... ________
STEP 2 => MEASURE RIDER SAG...
Take your bike off the stand
Put on your riding gear
Take a standing position
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M1... ________
Subtract M1 from M0... ________
This is your RIDER SAG. If it's between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 4. If it's not, continue with Step 3...
STEP 3 => ADJUST PRELOAD...
Put your bike on a stand
Lubricate threads on shock body
If rider sag is less than 90 mm...
Move rings up shock body (ccw)
If more than 100 mm
Move rings down shock body (cw)
Repeat Steps 2 & 3 until you've got 90-100mm, then continue with Step 4...
STEP 4 => MEASURE BIKE SAG...
With your rider sag now correct
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M2... ________
Subtract M2 from M0... ________
This is your BIKE SAG, and if it's between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. This is cool, very cool. Take a test ride, then... Adjust Your Dampening
If you can't get rider and bike sag correct, you've got the wrong spring. Goto Install the Correct Spring to fix this problem, then repeat steps 1-4...
Install the Correct Rear Spring
The KLX handles well right out of the box, but anybody over 135 pounds will find it too soft in the front, and anybody under 185 pounds will find it too stiff in the rear. And the best way to determine the correct spring for your weight and riding style is to measure and adjust Sag. Once you've got sag correct, then you can fine tune your KLX with... Dampening Adjustments
OK, so you measured and adjusted your sag, but couldn't get correct values for both rider sag and bike sag, so chances are good that you've got the wrong spring for your riding weight. Let's take a closer look at this problem...
Scenario #1 => You adjusted the shock preload for the correct Rider Sag, then measured a Bike Sag of less than 25mm. This means your spring is too soft for your riding weight. Yeah, it sounds backwards, but here's what happened: to get your Rider (Race) Sag correct, you set the preload higher than it would have been with the correct (stiffer) spring. So the bike sags less than the recommended value under its own weight.
Scenario #2 => You adjusted the shock preload for the correct Rider Sag, then measured a Bike Sag of more than 35mm. This means your spring is too stiff for your riding weight. Here's what happened: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight.
And here's the fix for either case => goto... RaceTech.com and checkout the recommended spring rates for your bike, riding style and riding weight. Buy the spring and install it, then recheck your Rider and Bike sag, and adjust as necessary. Here's how to get that new spring installed...
Remove the swingarm with Service Your Swingarm
Remove the lower shock mounting bolt
Swing the shock toward the rear of the bike
[or remove side panels, seat & upper mounting
bolt, then remove the shock from the bike]
Lubricate the threads on the shock body
Loosen the preload adjusting rings
Move both to the top of the shock body
Remove the lower retaining cup
(don't scratch the shaft!)
Pull the old spring off & install the new one
Put everything back together again
Re-adjust your preload with Sag Adjustments
Fine tune with Dampening Adjustments
.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 04-11-2021 at 08:57 PM.