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KLX250s FAQ and links

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Old 10-30-2009, 01:38 PM
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Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
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Arrow KLX250s FAQ and links



Another Great Linky


More KLX250s Links


="4"%KLX250S Cheap Mods
D.Pippin’s KLX250 mods.


Marcelino Cam Timing Mod. Simplified
Eliminating all the background to get to the basics.
By ADV Mark53





="5"%IDRIDER Link



Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Here's a collection of some of my favorite maintenance and modification threads and links. klajsm's thread seems to be a good place for it:

Popular Free / Cheap Mods Brake Snake Front Wheel Bearings and Maintenance including Bearing Part Numbers.
Fork Oil ChangeFork ValvesShock and Fork RevalveLowering / Raising Links (dogbones)
UFO KX Fork Guards Testing the cooling fan circuitManual cooling fan switch
  • I used a SPDT (single pole double throw, on-on) switch with two positions: fan on & fan automatic. Positions 1 & 3 in the diagram with no position 2. The switch in the diagram is SPTT (single pole triple throw).


Replacing Keyed Ignition Switch (e.g., with a toggle or aftermarket or other model)
Power sources (e.g., GPS, heated gear, phone, charger, etc)Kick StarterAcerbis 3.7-gallon tankCVK Carburetor (Stock)



Mikuni TM36-68 pumper / accelerator carb
Keihin FCR MX Flat Side Carb
Jetting Spreadsheet

Air Filter TestCam Chain Tension Adjuster
How to fit aftermarket bars
Longer Clutch and Throttle Cables (for tall bars, bar risers, pumper carb) Rear Brake Light Switch Rebuild / ReplaceGear Combinations and Chain LinksShifter Shaft Seal ReplacementClutch Plates and Springs, Dec 2011EBC:
Plates only
CK4469
EBC Replacement Clutch Plate Set
A direct replacement for the OEM unit made with an impregnated "cork" based lining that emulates the stock unit, but enhances clutch feel and lifetime.
Price: $68.00

Dirt Racer rebuild
DRC212
EBC Dirt Racer Clutch Rebuild Kit
The perfect clutch rebuild for every ATV and MX bike, featuring a complete engine set of friction plates with upgrade clutch springs and pin planished steel separator plates. These wear longer than the stock alloy units, prevent "muddying" of the lube system and increase engine flywheel effect, actually improving engine performance due to the slightly heavier component mass of the steel plate set. Being a complete rebuild kit, the DRC set completely re-sets the all important stack height to its original dimensions whereas simply replacing plates can lead to the same slippage problems.
Price: $73.00

Barnett:
Year 2006-12
Model KLX250S
Friction Plates (Qty.) 301-45-10003(7)
Tempered Steel Metal Plates (Qty.) 401-45-063008(6)
Spring Kits 501-25-06043351 Kit Build and Torque Curve Threads
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
from the 2009 manual:


Vapor ComputerLightingKLX Sag AdjustmentAdjust Your Sag

The KLX handles well right out of the box, but anybody over 135 pounds will find it too soft in the front and too stiff in the rear. To get the suspension correct for your weight and riding style, you'll have to measure and adjust both Sag and Dampening. Sag is determined by preload and spring rate, which primarily affect how your suspension handles the big stuff, whereas dampening primarily affects how it handles the small stuff. But there is considerable overlap, and when they work together properly, you get both comfort and control over a wide range of riding conditions. You’ll be better able to adjust your suspension correctly if you first understand how it was designed to operate and can identify symptoms of incorrect operation. So checkout... Suspension Basics before you jump into the sag adjustments. It's also recommended that you.. Service Your Swingarm before adjusting the suspension. Once you've got sag correct, continue with... Adjust Your Dampening
Sag Adjustments

Rider sag, also called "race" sag, is the amount the bike sags under its weight and yours during static conditions from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your Rider sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. Most suspension experts recommend a race sag equal to 1/3 the bikes travel. On the KLX-300, that's about 3-5/8 inch, or 92 mm. Most KLXers will therefore find that a static sag somewhere between 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions. Bike sag, also called "free" sag, is the distance the suspension sags without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your Rider sag correct, Bike sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check Bike sag after you set your Race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both.





STEP 1 => MEASURE ZERO SAG...

Put your bike on a stand
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender.
Record this value as M0... ________



STEP 2 => MEASURE RIDER SAG...

Take your bike off the stand
Put on your riding gear
Take a standing position
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M1... ________
Subtract M1 from M0... ________

This is your RIDER SAG. If it's between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 4. If it's not, continue with Step 3...



STEP 3 => ADJUST PRELOAD...

Put your bike on a stand
Lubricate threads on shock body
If rider sag is less than 90 mm...
Move rings up shock body (ccw)
If more than 100 mm
Move rings down shock body (cw)

Repeat Steps 2 & 3 until you've got 90-100mm, then continue with Step 4...



STEP 4 => MEASURE BIKE SAG...

With your rider sag now correct
Measure vertical distance from axle to fender
Record this value as M2... ________
Subtract M2 from M0... ________

This is your BIKE SAG, and if it's between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. This is cool, very cool. Take a test ride, then... Adjust Your Dampening

If you can't get rider and bike sag correct, you've got the wrong spring. Goto Install the Correct Spring to fix this problem, then repeat steps 1-4...








Above Photo taken from my Ride ReportHere
The photo is of GanzR's KLX 250s
that he borrowed to me to ride the
"Black Gap" of Big Bend National Park


If you have KLX links,
PM me and I will post them here.

Kawasaki Forum - very active and my favorite
www.kawasakiforums.com/forum

ThumperTalk - active and also a favorite
thumpertalk.com/forum

ADV- You are here
Advrider.com/Long term KLX250S review


KLR World forums
klrworld.com/forums

Woods racer.com

Bike Stores
Rocky Mountain ATV.com

Dual Sport Armory

Motorcycle-Superstore.com

Parts + Accessories + Performance = ProCycle



Al Bakers Bike Store


Parts Blow-up & Price list comparison
motosport.com Parts Blow-up


http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com - KLX250s parts


Service Manual
KLX250 KLX300 Service Manual - Kawasaki Forums
http://www.mediafire.com/?b200n2cdtcq
kawasakiforums.com

2009 KLX 250 page
09 KLX250s Thread - ADVrider

KLX World
klrworld.com/forums

Common Part Numbers

Foot Pegs

Chain and Sprocket

Fat Bar Fitment

Tires for dirt

Hand Guards

Home-made Luggage Rack

KLX 250s Australian vs US hp/difference


Very good dual sport;( it is based on the 1993-2007 KLX250R/KLX300R trail bikes ).


Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki
 
Last edited by klasjm; 03-29-2020 at 02:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
Default - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -KLX 250 Free Mods Links
13 tooth counter sprocket No doubt about it - the 13t rocks.

The sprocket from the factory is near impossible to remove. Our normal impact driver would not budge it. We borrowed a high reverse torque impact driver and it spun the sprocket right off!

14/42 is a stock sprocket set-up,
14T - Stock
13T - Shorter for tight tracks and hills
15T - Taller for highway, best to have a non US model or to have a big bore kit

Alternator:
210W (15A @ 14V @7K RPM)

Front tire (metric)80/100-21.......(inch)3.00x21
Rear tire (metric)100/100-18.......(inch)4.10x18

Front sizes that will (might)work:
Those are just equalivent sizes to stock
3.00x21
80/100x21
90/90x21

Rear sizes:
4.60x18
4.50x18
100/100x18
110/90x18
120/90x18



Tire Pressure (Cold)
—Front 150 kPa (22 psi)
—Rear 150 kPa (22 psi)
Drive Chain Slack 50-60 mm with bike on stand

Spark Plug NGK CR8E or ND U24ESR-N

Engine Oil SE Class SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50
—w/Filter Change 1.5 L
—No Filter Change 1.2 L
—Level On center stand, wait 5 min, middle of window

Coolant 50% distilled water /50% ethylene glycol base antifreeze.
—Capacity 1.1 L (1.2 qt.)
—Level Level with radiator filler neck

Among the other key features of the 2006/07 KLX250:
# Flat-top piston and pentroof combustion chamber deliver an 11:1 compression ratio. Lightweight piston, piston pin and connecting rod allow power-producing revs.
# Starting the KLX250 is simplified through the use of an electric starter and Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR), which automatically lifts an exhaust valve at cranking rpm.
# The digital CDI provides precise control of ignition timing and contributes to easy starts and reliability under extreme conditions.
# Dual, vertical-flow radiators provide highly efficient, reliable engine cooling.
# A lightweight, rigid aluminum swingarm contributes to reduced unsprung weight.
# Dual-dial instrument panel features easy-to-read analogue speedometer and tachometer, odometer, trip meter, water temperature warning lamp, and a series of indicator lamps.
# Snail-type chain adjusters simplify wheel removal and chain adjustments.
# The KLX250 is equipped with a 1.9 gallon fuel tank, narrowly constructed to provide the rider with a comfortable position.

http://www.kawasaki.com/VIVehicleInformation/VIservicespecs/KLX250H6F/2006

VIN Range JKALXMH16DA09857 —
Engine No. Range LX250DEA00001—
Engine No. Location LH side crankcase

Fork Oil Kayaba 01 or SAE 5W
—Capacity 516-522cc (17.45-17.65 fl. oz.)
—Level 97 ±2mm

Free Front Fork Mod:ricky
Spring Rate and Preload 101
Originally Posted by zomby woof
I'm the same weight as you, and a fairly aggressive rider.
I put a .75" spacer in the front springs, and its almost perfect.
If I have time, I might make a 1", and try that, just to see if its better.
The dive is not an issue for me anymore.
Originally Posted by zomby woof
Why would there be reduced wheel travel?
You still have the full fork travel. Its no different than tightening up the preload nut on the rear shock, and in fact, its even better off road, than on.

For the spacers, buy 2 pcs. of 1 1/2" dia., .125" wall steel tubing.
Move the bars out of the way, undo one cap at a time, and unscrew it from the rod. Polish the tubing so that it fits (its snug) inside the cap, and bolt it back on so that the tubing sits in the cap at the top, and on the spring washer/spacer on the bottom.
The spring rate is so soft, its easy to install. Once you remove the cap, you'll see what to do.
Originally Posted by ddt1972
I too ride mostly street with mine. The front springs on these bikes are way too soft. . . had bad nosedive. New front springs set for your weight . . . stop the nosedive. I changed to RaceTech front and rear springs for my weight, rides like it should now.
Originally Posted by Sid Post
I put .42kg/mm front springs from Moto-Pro on my ride. It got rid of nose dive and helped reduce rear lockups on the street. Before with factory springs, the rear would come up with all the weight shift forward and lock the rear wheel.

I still get about 8 inches of travel over speedbumps on the street!

Off road, these springs work great!
KLX250s Fork Spring removal Tutorial



Tech Tips

Expected Gas Mileage :thumbup

Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut


Originally Posted by 67L48
Most performance deficiencies have been well documented since the bike came out in 2006. They're all true. It's a very tame 250 bike. People who are really dissatisfied with the bike are probably unlikely to change that with the minor mods (carb, airbox, exhaust). These mods won't take you from bored to excited. You're either going to need a different bike or, at least, change the engine on the KLX to one of the big bore versions: 331 or 350.

A KLX 331 or 350 is what will ultimately give you the bike you want, from a power/responsiveness perspective. You still may not like the weight or the suspension set-up. But, you'll have a cheaper, easier-to-maintain bike than, e.g., a WR250 or a 450 EXC
The first years of the street legal KLX 250s (H6F) in the USA was 2006 and '07, there were no '08s, '09 had minor redesign changes.

The KLXs is a liquid-cooled, four-stroke, four-valve, DOHC, single-cylinder 250cc dual sport motorcycle. The KLX is a low maintenance plated (street legal), The counter balanced engine is very smooth. The KLX is is cheap to insure and gets 50-70 MPG.

The advantages the KLX has over many other 250 D.S. is a sixth gear (real .904 overdrive) and 5th gear is a 1.050 ratio, and that would be considered a final gear, a one to one ratio, for practical purposes. With the right sprocket combination you can have a nice road ride and still have the right gearing for sand & woods riding.

When the mods are done, the KLX is a nice single track wooded trails bike with a rubber band like powerband. Nice having the magic button (electric starter). The wet (gas,coolant,oil)weight is around 270 pounds. Decent aftermarket part availability because it shares so many parts with the KLX300. If you want to spend an extra $500, you can gain a bunch of power with the 351 cc kit and $200 for a new exhaust pipe. Here.

My little KLX 250 is a dirt bike that I can ride on the highway. My modified 1989 R100GS is a street bike that I can muscle on dirt roads and trails. My Ride Report Here.

Suzuki DRZ 400 or a KLR650 are also a great bikes between these two styles. The newYamaha WR250 is getting great reviews, but is more expensive than the KLXs.


The KLX 250s is a great bike for commuting or to plonk along and have fun through the woods. I didn't want some high strung motor. I will never have to worry about snapping a chain or stressing any parts with this 20 h.p. motor! There are riders who think and ride this bike like a motocross racer, but that's not me.




new shrouds for first generation 250s. reproduction units on Ebay.



I love my KLX :thumbup
but its just not going to be a
KTM Killer anytime soon.

:brow
 
Last edited by klasjm; 05-17-2016 at 01:43 AM.
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:42 PM
klasjm's Avatar
Member
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
Arrow - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -KLX 250 Links
klrworld.com_newsfeeds


Dan Moore's links
Dan Moore's KLX250S Page

KLX Ride Report
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/KLX Ride Report

KLX Ride Report

A favorite Ride Report
KLX 250 rides the CannonTrekIII

KLX Photos


The Beast
The "Beast" - What Was Done - Parts List

Motor Cycling mag.com/2009_kawasaki_klx250s

Motorcycle Canada articles

motorcycledaily.com_2009kawasaki_klx250s

video/2009-kawasaki-klx250s-dual-sport-motorcycle/

Motorcycle-USA.com/2009-Kawasaki-KLX250S-First-Ride

motorcycle.com/2009-kawasaki-klx250s-review

2009-kawasaki-klx250s/article

topspeed.com-reviewsi/2006-kawasaki-klx250s

Cool Japanese FARKLES

Devol Racing F.A.R.K.L.E.
(Fancy Accessory Really Kool Likely Expensive - "function" and "sparkle")

M/C LINKS

300cc Big Bore install pictorial

Motorbike.uk/2009/kawasaki-klx250

kawasaki.com/Products-specifications.2009 KLX 250S
dealer.com/Site/2006/KLX250H6F.pdf

Cycleworld.com/KLX250s Vs WR250

Great Ride Report

PIC OF YOUR BAD @$$ KLXs


Originally Posted by BeenThere
Bored with forum
I recently sold my '08 KLR650 and purchased a '09 KLX250S. I really like the KLX and have it farkled out the way I want it, but I've got to say I'm bored with this forum. No one after another Doohicky threads. No oil burning threads. No electrical problem thread. No engine guard vibration problems. Try as I might, I haven't been able to find any repeated KLX problems being discussed on this forum. I just can't find anything to get worked up or excited about.
BeenThere, that is why they created this thread clicky!!!

Rear suspension adjustment




UFO REPLACEMENT PLASTIC FOR KAWASAKI KLX250s (Parts Unlimited)
FORK TUBE PROTECTORS
Part # Description Retail
12-706-29 FITS MODEL: KX125/250/500 94-95, COLOR: White $28.95


rear fender elimination / signal tuck


Stainless Steel Brake Line Routing






Video below:
shows how to adjust the KLX 250s
43mm Inverted Cartridge Fork with
11 inches of suspension
<object width="425" height="344">

<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5H4S0SdG8RI&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&featur e=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></object>

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:gerg :gerg :gerg
The remaining post are carb modifications:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

YYY.GUYS Spreadshet of users mods and jetting pdf[size=3][font=Comic Sans MS]

YYY.GUYS Great Post klx250 - Mods & Jets & Clicks

Originally Posted by bmwhd
1) Removed the Air Injection System (Air Valve) that directs clean-side air into the exhaust system right at the front of the cylinder head (some call this the smog stuff). This very simple arrangement consists of a vacuum operated valve and a couple of hoses. The air is "injected" into the exhaust via a reed valve. I just removed all the pluming and the valve and then capped (Editor note: did mine with a with a $8.50 Bill Blue Smog Block Off Plate Here) the hole at the top of the reed valve chamber, the air box hole and the carb vacuum port. This won't do squat for performance but it will lower exhaust temp significantly which helps keep pipes shiny if nothing else and cleans up the under-tank area.

You should not remove either end of the fuel lines that go from tank to fuel valve. I did and ended up breaking both lines. As is clearly stated in the instructions, leave those lines alone and simply remove the fuel valve.

Otherwise, just take your time. It's nothing but removing a few bolts and hoses. Nothing difficult, just a little time consuming.
2) Drilled the crankcase vent hole at the lower front right hand corner of the airbox out to 3/8". Like the KLX300, this system is plugged up and enlarging the hole helps move air out of the crankcase. It also means oil has a clear shot at your airbox if you lay the bike over.
Originally Posted by the Colorado Kings
Except for two strokes which need crankcase pressure to feed the cylinder, piston engines generally use a breather to relieve the build up of crankcase pressure and vent the oil vapors. As the piston comes down and the engine heats up, it pressurizes the crankcase. The air and oil molecules also expand to cause more pressure. If too much pressure builds, you can get leaks or even blow up the case.

Eliminating restriction is desirable because it allows the piston to travel downwards without the resistance caused by positive pressure in the crankcase. Opening up the restriction in the stock KLX breather hose provides lets the engine rev more freely. Another benefit is that more horsepower reaches the rear wheel because the piston isn't pushing against positive crankcase air pressure (much like a bicycle tire pump).

It's a pretty minimal gain as far as performance enhancements go, but because it's cheap and easy, it's a popular mod.

Adding the filter on the end prevents oil vapor from fouling the air filter and possibly clogging the jets. filter
Originally Posted by westcoast
I think modifying or replacing the stock breather plug is easier than buying an external filter and running a new hose (re-route your crank case breather tube using Y connectors and route the "extra" connection up into your air box). That prevents the engine from sucking in water if you go through deep water back into the air box. Especially if you keep the air box lid and just remove the snorkel. That way you get effective suction from the intake through the lower air box to help remove air in the crankcase. True the air it doesn't go through a filter, but I really don't think that is a big concern. My custom plug has a 5/16 ID and the same OD; I made it slightly longer than the stock version and works well.

Editor Note: this is the crankcase ventilation modification I did. I used a T-handle to enlarge the airbox CC vent hole, then a T connector in the hose up to the spare airbox hole which had the smog crap (KCR Air Suction System) hose installed originally. Jim

I had a small concern that some oil will travel up to the air box just from the motion associated with normal riding with out the plug. So I decided to make a custom plug out of reinforced fuel line hose that has the exact same OD, but 5/16 ID. I think that's a good compromise between limiting the amount of oil and allowing better crank case venting.
Originally Posted by KAWBOYBILL
Unless they made a change over the model years there is a restrictor plug inside the hose. It just pushes out to give you the full volume of flow. This is all I have done on my bike. There are others who would tell you that you should run the hose up thru the frame and stick it into the air box with a small filter on the end of this hose and cap off the original entry into the air box. This is to prevent oil from entering the box in the event of a rollover. I have had some pretty spectacular get offs and have never had a problem but there are pretty knowledgeable people on this site who have there reasons for one fix over another.
3) Removed the carb (Editor note: Exchange the soft Carb top screws for some allen bolts) to replace the needle (pre-'06 N1TC needle), drill the slide vent with a #32 drill, and replace the main jet with a #122 (for now. Also have a #125 if needed).

Editor Note: Factory stock US is 118 main and a 35 pilot. I have a KLX 300 exhaust, KDX snorkel, Uni Filter. I drilled the carb slide and went with N1TC needle on the second notch from the top, a 125 main and 38 pilot jet with the main jet mixture screws turned out 2 turns. Also did the smog plate and drilled the crankcase breather tube.
1) N1TC needle (pre-'05 KLX300 49-state needle which is Kawi part
number 16009-1912)

2) Needle clip (92037-1401). Put this in slot 2 down from the top of
the needle

3) Needle collar (92143-1667) - Goes on top of the clip

4) #125 Main Jet (92063-1069)

5) Removed the air box snorkel pending replacement with the high flow unit (Kaw part 14073-1577) Snorkel photo Here...

Editor note: Make sure all the carb (Keihin CVK34), air box and smog items are capped!

Originally Posted by suCCeSSor
The slide moves up into the carburetor body as vacuum is applied to a hole "A" at the bottom rear of the slide. Enlarging this hole causes the slide to move up faster because vacuum is applied faster to the diaphragm that is attatched to the top of the air slide. Bit for this operation, a 1/8-inch(Editor note: many have used 7/64" drill bit). The air slide (and its needle jet) controls both throttle response and fuel mixture in the 1/4 throttle to 7/8th throttle openings. The needle jet is pushed through the hole marked "B" from the underside and is held in place by the air slide spring.

Drill the pictured hole to 7/64"


http://www.dudeworld/Constant Velocity Carburetor Tutorial

Motorcycle Carbs 101.pdf

Carb Jetting 101

Smaller Jet sizes will lean out your mixture, bigger Jet sizes will richen your mixture. Try your bike out at one throttle opening at a time to see if it needs adjustment. Popping and farting mean a lean condition, doughy throttle response and slight black smoke on acceleration mean a rich condition.

Remember:
Idle Jet: Controls fuel mixture from idle to 1/8th throttle opening. The CV carb uses an Idle mixture adjustment screw instead of an Idle Jet .
Pilot Jet: Controls fuel mixture from 1/8th throttle opening to 1/4 throttle opening




Main Jet: Controls fuel mixture from 7/8ths throttle to W.O.T. (Wide Open Throttle).
Thanks to DudeWorld who also use the CV Carbs on their bikes[/quote]
Originally Posted by

As for the rich (black) plug. As you now have the adjustable N1TC needle in the carb', lowers the needle, leaner(raise the clip one notch on the needle to rich up the mid range and some top end).
Originally Posted by koubalink.com
koubalink.com/fuelscrew
To adjust main jet mixture screws, the engine needs to be warmed up and running at a low idle. Then simply turn the (main jet mixture screw) "T" handle slowly in (clockwise) until the idle slows, then turn it out (counterclockwise) until the idle slows again, noting how many turns you made in between. Then turn it half way between the low idle points. That is normally as good as it gets.

You can also determine if the pilot jet is of the proper size. If the low idle point never comes when turning the fuel/air adjuster out, then a larger pilot may be required, and if low idle never comes after turning it in, then a smaller pilot jet may be required.

This mod is to keep water out of the carb on deep water crossings
(Thanks MaverickAus)
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
You need to put a "T" in the carb lines that hang down and run the extra line up and into the airbox. What happens is if the line is in the water you can't get atmospheric air into the carb bowl, then as fuel is pulled out, a vacuum begins to form stopping fuel from getting to the engine. The "T" allows air to get into the carb from the airbox end, breaking the vacuum.
HMF Racing.com/Free Mods

Opening up the klx 250
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2041&page=2
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum

Mod day - Airbox, carb, smog, crank case breather, carb 'T', and muffler completed - Kawasaki Forums
Mod day - Airbox, carb, smog, crank case breather, carb 'T', and muffler completed - Kawasaki Forums

Free mods
KLX FREE MODS -- 4 EASY STEPS TO MORE POWER!

4strokes.com/crankcase_breather free mods

Dyna jet
Remember that when someone says a main jet size they should also say if it is a dyno jet or stock jet as the sizes are different for each. A 132 dynojet is not the same diameter as a 132 Keihn etc.
Dyno Jet Kit Chart
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2152.pdf
Dynojet Jet Kits - Offering Motorcycle Jet Kits & ATV Jet Kits


Keihin - How It Works


KLX Clutch Rebuild


Okay, Let's Talk Camshafts!



IMS 3.2 tank
IMS tank project - Kawasaki Forums
IMS 3.2 tank on KLX250S - ADVrider


Originally Posted by BigSky KLX
There are two dynojet kits that work with the KLX250s.

2152 and the 2206

Both work on any 2006 or newer bike. The 2206 is listed for the KLX300 ( which is the 250's off road brother ) and the 2152 is listed as the 09's and newer but will work.

Moose kits are just rebadged dynojet kits.

CARB-36MM MIKUNI PUMPER FLATSLIDE - TM36-68
 
Last edited by klasjm; 02-14-2014 at 12:39 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:43 PM
klasjm's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
Posts: 63
Talking >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>My KLX250s mods


Gearing and exhaust are the two most noticeable mods you can do to the KLX250s. Of course with exhaust you have to do airbox and jetting, but those are easy mods to do

. . . with around $200 plus, $20 for the 13-tooth front sprocket you can have a real rocket compared to stock.

My 2006 KLX250S
Gearing: 13t front counter sprocket, stock rear
Exhaust: KLX300 header and can with large CNC machine butt plug
Intake: Uni Filter, KDX snorkle
Altitude: 800 ft (Wisconsin)
Jetting: (all Kawi OEM parts)
Needle N1TC needle (clip in second from top notch)
Main Jet 130 (125 was a no go for this set-up)
Pilot Jet 38
Carb slide bleed hole drilled 7/64"
Idle screw 2 turns out
Crankcase vent mod
No smog crap


A completely different bike from stock,
they really are extremely restricted from new


My other Mods:
Kenda Trackmasters
Eibach suspension springs - F&R
KX High Pro Tapers
Cycra Center Reach Mount handguards
Utah Ricochet Skid Plate - about $75
Acerbis White front fender (I liked the look)
IMS tank (need to install)
Seat strap, chain spray guard and inner fender removed
Rear turn signal tuck


 
Last edited by klasjm; 05-19-2010 at 12:42 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:47 PM
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Just a bunch of links I have found while doing the mods on my 2006 KLX250s
I plan to add more as I find them








Video below:
shows how to adjust the KLX 250s
43mm Inverted Cartridge Fork with
11 inches of suspension




Auto headlight mod


Kick-starter Install w/pics

Fitting front S/S brake lines


S/S Rear Brake Hose fitted

Fork Oil Seal Replacement

Engine Valve Adjustment

Fork guard replacements

Bill Blue 351 install, Pic’s links

INTERCHANGEABLE PARTS


Oil and filter
1.5 Quarts with a Filter Change and empty engine

1.4 Quarts with only an oil change

Originally Posted by cliffsta
As for how to do a oil change, entirely straightforward.
Undo the drainplug and let it drain,
then undone the filter cover and remove it.

The spring is on the INSIDE of the filter so be careful not to lose it.
Make sure to line up the oil passages when you reinstall the filter and cover.
I cheat and use a dab of grease to hold the spring into place.
About a quart and a half of new oil.

No bones about it, entirely straightforward.

Just don't run the engine to get the oil out of it (cough cough DEEJ)

Originally Posted by TNC
What year model do you have? KYB makes the forks. Replace the seals and the outer wipers...silly not to when you've got it down that far. I believe the springs are .38kg. The stock fork oil is 5wt. Don't go heavier, as the main compression piston won't really flow enough to suit 5wt, so going heavier only causes a bigger compression spike.
Skid Plates


Originally Posted by Bake
All 3 KLX I've seen regularly torn down for maintenance (mine, Bill Blue's and his wife's) have needed the steering head bearings cleaned and re-greased thoroughly. Kawasaki went with a real minimal setting on the grease gun when assembling these and the rear suspension linkage. Do them all, and also the swing arm pivot itself. They were all nearly devoid of grease.
ref.: one '06 and 2 '07's

Originally Posted by dgmeister
DWJ-

1) I thought that mine needed re-greasing because of riding in sand near salt water a lot (live at the beach) but when i pulled them apart they were fine
i think crap gets into the rear wheel bearing easiest so u can judge by that

2) rubber collar comes off easier than it is to fall off a bike, try a gentle pry with a screw driver on the inside edge, just pops back in again.

PS if you haven't done the carby mods do them NOW, no, do them last week.

Originally Posted by Radius
Okay, so during my searching I have come up with the following part numbers:

2009 KLX250SF Black hubs:
Front: 41034-0043-18R
Rear: 41034-0053-18R

2009 KLX250S Silver Hubs:
Front Hub: 41034-0051
REar Hub: 41034-0044

2007 KLX250S
Front Hub: 41034-1243
Rear Hub: 41034-1216

Does anyone know why the hub part numbers changed for 2009?

They are unique part numbers that only fit S and SF models. Will 2009 S hubs fit on a SF?

The 2007 KLX-S front hub part number only fits '06 and '07 KLX250S models.

The 2007 KLX-S REAR hub fits TONS of different bikes. Here is the list:
1995-2006 KDX200
1997-2005 KDX220R
1991-1994 KDX250
1994-1996 KLX250R
2006-2007 KLX250S (Obviously)
1997-2007 KLX300R
1993-1996 KLX650R

Hopefully this list will help someone looking for wheels/hubs to build supermoto wheels or whatever.

Thanks,
Michael
Sprocket gearing:
1 size in front is equal to 3 in back


Originally Posted by klxforum.suncup.net

Here is a chart to cover the gearing designed for the 2006/2007 KLX250S.

Gear Ratio stock is 14/42
Full Gear Ratio Chart

...... 13 ..... 14 ..... 15 ..... 16
====================================
53 | 4.08 ... 3.79 ... 3.53 ... 3.31
52 | 4.00 ... 3.71 ... 3.47 ... 3.25
51 | 3.92 ... 3.64 ... 3.40 ... 3.19
50 | 3.85 ... 3.57 ... 3.33 ... 3.13
49 | 3.77 ... 3.50 ... 3.27 ... 3.06
48 | 3.69 ... 3.43 ... 3.20 ... 3.00
47 | 3.62 ... 3.36 ... 3.13 ... 2.94
46 | 3.54 ... 3.29 ... 3.07 ... 2.88
45 | 3.46 ... 3.21 ... 3.00 ... 2.81
44 | 3.38 ... 3.14 ... 2.93 ... 2.75
43 | 3.31 ... 3.07 ... 2.87 ... 2.69
42 | 3.23 ... 3.00 ... 2.80 ... 2.63



Here's the gearing according to the owners manual:

1st 3.000 (30/10)
2nd 2.000 (30/15)
3rd 1.500 (27/18)
4th 1.250 (25/20)
5th 1.050 (20/20)
6th 0.904 (19/21)

The tach has redline at 10,500 RPM

Final drive gearing is 42/14 or 3.000

jtsprockets.com/ gearing


Rim locks clicky
Originally Posted by NEWPARTSRULE
Mine needs them. I run 12\13 front\rear with Maxxis Maxcross tires. Works well here in the Pacific NW. I can even cruise at 70 on the freeway if I need to. A knobby with 20 lbs or so doesn't function as it was designed to when offroad. Just my opinion, this works for me. I don't even notice any balance issues due to the locks.

Originally Posted by TNC
If you run those (lower) pressures, you need rim locks. Your situation about 70 mph with those pressures may be a point for discussion...such as how long at those speeds and outside temps while running at those speeds. . . . I'd say that low pressures and sustained highway speeds aren't the best combination.
Originally Posted by newdaze1
No matter what dirt orientated tire you go with, if you mainly enjoy off-road hyjinks then do yourself a favor and install a rim lock when you change the tire out. Most M/C dealers have them in stock, they cost about $12.00 and you can run the 11-14 psi that the tires were designed for without the tire spinning on the rim and breaking the valve stem rather than the 20 something psi the manual reccomends which results in inferior traction on dirt or sand. All you have to do is remove the little rubber plug that comes installed in the rim.

Originally Posted by neilaction
I run around 11-12 psi front and rear with extra HD tubes. Rim lock on the rear only.
Tried higher psi but off road, nup, I lose front feel.
I ran 14's for years as a sort of compromise between off/on road. . .
Tire Pressure (Cold)
—Front 150 kPa (22 psi)
—Rear 150 kPa (22 psi)
Drive Chain Slack 50-60 mm with bike on stand


HOW TO: Chain removal and installation (Pictorial)
pointing out the grooves showing when you put the clip back on
and what a good clip looks like. . .


Clean chain--keep maintained


Quick Jetting Roll Call



Where do you tap into the charging system to run accessories? Here



What octane petro?

Gear ratio change, front or back sprocket?

Motorcycle USA Best of 2009 Awards[/URL][/FONT][/SIZE]

Baker DistanceTanks


Kickstand sensor heads up



fork-spring-install

Clock setting on 2009 KLX
Key ON
Hold RESET for more than two seconds
Clock flashes
Push RESET, just hours flash
Use MODE to change hours
Push RESET, now minutes flash
Use MODE to change
Push RESET
Clock flashes
Push MODE
Clock set.

Click MODE for single advance. Hold MODE for continuous clock advance



A few of my ride reports
enjoy the links



:
Texas

:
Hawaii

:
Labrador

:
Wisconsin

:
Trans Wisconsin Adventure Trail
 
Last edited by klasjm; 10-31-2014 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:26 PM
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Thanks for the report.....man that's a lot of advertisements!!! LOL Are you getting paid per link? WOW!
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by deej
Thanks for the report.....man that's a lot of advertisements!!! LOL Are you getting paid per link? WOW!
No Kidding lmao!
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:23 PM
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Some good info and links! Thanks!
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 08:45 PM
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Nice compilation Jim. Deej you should link this in your FAQ sticky.
Dan
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:19 PM
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good job, i almost thought you missed the 09 thread on adv but its there.
 
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