You know your off topic about being off topic.

 

It's OK, a double negative (bike wouldn't start and the gas wouldn't burn) equals a positive = on topic?
grin
TC
(seriously, I agree with the relevance and the need for a touch of humor!)

 

OK, I have a couple hundred miles on the MCM and two separate off road rides to have formed an impression. (As listed earlier, I have only increased the main jet size up to the DJ132 as that is all I have at this time. The only other mod I did with the MCM was to disable the KACR))

The improvement in throttle response and power above 5k is undeniable. It pulls like never before. I am not sure what went wrong with the people who posted no improvement or loss of power.

Someone asked if there is trade-off or loss in another rpm range. I can't say for sure if I lost any of the tractor-like characteristics down below 4k for two reasons... 1) the responsiveness above 4-5k comes on so impressively that I think it would feel "soft" below 4k even if there was not any change in that range. 2) The motor revs so much freer in what seems to be a 5-9k sweet spot I don't ever feel the need to "tractor up" at a lower rpm as motor just feels happier to pull any given speed in a lower gear/higher rpm than it did before the MCM.

Don't write me off as a blind supporter of this mod, I will surely update if I encounter a down-side or if a negative attribute rears its head as I put more hours on the bike. I am looking forward to a two-day event in Cashmere, WA in early October and will report back if I have new findings!

God Bless,
TC

 

When you try 144/1N lidless, your power above 7k - compared to what you have now - will be so strong all the way to redline, (10,500RPM), that you will be constantly accidentally hitting the rev limiter..

It seems that shifting points, at WOT, have a subconscious factor based on when you feel the power bleed off (As the revs get up in the 9k area).. When the bike pulls hard all the way to 10K+ , you hit the rev limiter before you're thinking "shift"... It is an interesting thing to experience..

With 144/1N lidless, your fuel mileage will go up (when ridden conservatively) and your "low to mid" power will likely also increase.

 

I thought the best gains after the MCM, lid off, K&N and slip-on was the 140 and 3N? I remember seeing a dyno result posted here.

I'm now have a new carb and also running the 132 with the needle in 3N and do have a slight lean hick up at WOT. The 144 would seem like a huge jump. Why set the needle at 1N?

 

Let's get this straighten out.

Dyno testing/tuning using the DynoJet 2152 kit - backed up with on/off road riding (Butt Dyno ) FYI: Target WOT AFR 12.8:1

1. MCM + Stock Header with Slip-on Silencer OR KLX300 exhaust system(uncorked): Use DJ140/2N, lidless - for max power near sea level.

2. MCM + Larger-than-stock Header (Full aftermarket performance exhaust system) : Use DJ144/1N, lidless - for max power near sea level.

Note: To use 1N you will be super-gluing the DJ washers to the top of the c-clip.

3. Correct (re-calculate) main jet size for other altitudes using this calculator - Main Jet Correction

Use of this calculator:
My Dyno charted setups are at 750ft with an SAE standard day of 77F - So, interpolating off the chart and I get:
1. Baseline of DJ144/1N is (144 / .99) = 145.45
2. Baseline of DJ140/2N is (140 /.99) = 141.41

So, for example.. Lets say your bike is set up to make use of DJ140/2N/Lidless, but you're at 4500ft and it averages 68F during the months you ride. Take the baseline for 140/2N (141.41) X your table correction factor (.95) and you get 134.34 - So, to feel the "biggy" power, you'll need to be running DJ134/2N lidless..

Now look at all the different altitudes and temps that carry a correction factor close to your .95 .. This will tell you how much variance in altitude and temps your DJ134/2N/Lidless should operate well with...

 

Ruggy, Timc is running a PBomb+Q4 ( see his signature line? ) .... So assuming he is not running a restrictive insert in the Q4, his bike qualifies for DJ144/1N/Lidless or a calculated variant thereof..

If he is running a restrictive insert, I have no proven data to offer him - I'd try going down 1 DynoJet jet size from whatever his calculated DJ144/1N came out to be..

 

Perfect thanks for clearing that up. That was a whole lot of typing!

 

hi Marcelino, what is your new valve timing after your new cam set up.
this the original valve timing
Valve Timing:
Inlet:
Open BTDC 22°
Close ABDC 62°
Duration 264°

Exhaust:
Open BBDC 61°
Close ATDC 19°
Duration 260

 

I don't know if he still frequents the site. FWIW read his first few posts, he explains the timing. Hope that helps if there is no answer.

By the way for most of us it works fairly well.