KLX 250 ( 300 ) camshaft mod by Marcelino
#811
Main is in effect when near and at full throttle. If it leans out at full throttle in mid and upper rpm (remember peak hp is at around 8600 rpm) then get the richer jet. If it ran fine (I forget what you said about that) then it's likely fine. Mine ran fine wide open, took out the hesitation, so I stayed with the leaner jet, but I had the fuel adder too.
You could pick up one size richer to have it. The needle is the mid range steady throttle issue.
You could pick up one size richer to have it. The needle is the mid range steady throttle issue.
#812
Main is in effect when near and at full throttle. If it leans out at full throttle in mid and upper rpm (remember peak hp is at around 8600 rpm) then get the richer jet. If it ran fine (I forget what you said about that) then it's likely fine. Mine ran fine wide open, took out the hesitation, so I stayed with the leaner jet, but I had the fuel adder too.
You could pick up one size richer to have it. The needle is the mid range steady throttle issue.
You could pick up one size richer to have it. The needle is the mid range steady throttle issue.
#813
Find the dyno jet main in this application, fuels almost the same as the keihin jet used for this application. No conversion chart, id hole measuring needed. My experience with the 300 needle is to use it at clip 1 and 2. It's (too) aggressive taper can make the bike go rich set any lower. My best power pull was with a 132 main using a clean K&N filter. A swap to foam filter 128 looked better. This was using a kdx snorkle cut short, lid off too loud. YMMV
#815
Two things...
First, add me to the list of believers in the MCM. what an awesome improvement! I only got in a short shake down run but when it lifted the front wheel in second gear I knew good things were going on!
Second, addressing RuggyBuggy's posts regarding a tight cam chain with the tensoiner removed, and needing to "walk" the cams in. In looking at the Factory Service Manual, the large bolt below the cam tensioner holds a spring against the chain guide to keep tension on it. So even with the racheting chain tensioner removed, there is a (big) spring keeping tension on the chain guide. It is just a large spring with no provision to prevent the chain guide from pushing back against the spring tension, that is what the racheting tensioner or Kreiger unit does.
Hope that helps, God Bless,
TC
First, add me to the list of believers in the MCM. what an awesome improvement! I only got in a short shake down run but when it lifted the front wheel in second gear I knew good things were going on!
Second, addressing RuggyBuggy's posts regarding a tight cam chain with the tensoiner removed, and needing to "walk" the cams in. In looking at the Factory Service Manual, the large bolt below the cam tensioner holds a spring against the chain guide to keep tension on it. So even with the racheting chain tensioner removed, there is a (big) spring keeping tension on the chain guide. It is just a large spring with no provision to prevent the chain guide from pushing back against the spring tension, that is what the racheting tensioner or Kreiger unit does.
Hope that helps, God Bless,
TC
Last edited by timc63; 09-07-2015 at 05:10 AM. Reason: typo
#816
Tim, what is your elevation? You need to be running DJ144/1N or a variation corrected for your altitude..
You see, with MCM and your full FMF exhaust - and despite not running lidless - your bike will be running very lean.. I'm sure it runs fine but you're not seeing the power levels you have worked hard for and paid for..
You see, with MCM and your full FMF exhaust - and despite not running lidless - your bike will be running very lean.. I'm sure it runs fine but you're not seeing the power levels you have worked hard for and paid for..
#817
Tim, what is your elevation? You need to be running DJ144/1N or a variation corrected for your altitude..
You see, with MCM and your full FMF exhaust - and despite not running lidless - your bike will be running very lean.. I'm sure it runs fine but you're not seeing the power levels you have worked hard for and paid for..
You see, with MCM and your full FMF exhaust - and despite not running lidless - your bike will be running very lean.. I'm sure it runs fine but you're not seeing the power levels you have worked hard for and paid for..
The 1N is a Kawi needle?
Thanks for the advice and being attentive to my combo!
TC
#819
If you want to run well all the way to 6K then you'll have to run really lean at sea level..
You can call DJ and order a 144 main jet, 2 needle washers, and a needle clip... Shipping will cost more than the parts..
Pull your lid, put in 144/1N you'll be correct for sea level up to close to 2K with a healthy dose of extra power over your current setup.. If you ever decide to try this, Let me know before you start the work..
You can call DJ and order a 144 main jet, 2 needle washers, and a needle clip... Shipping will cost more than the parts..
Pull your lid, put in 144/1N you'll be correct for sea level up to close to 2K with a healthy dose of extra power over your current setup.. If you ever decide to try this, Let me know before you start the work..
#820
If you want to run well all the way to 6K then you'll have to run really lean at sea level..
You can call DJ and order a 144 main jet, 2 needle washers, and a needle clip... Shipping will cost more than the parts..
Pull your lid, put in 144/1N you'll be correct for sea level up to close to 2K with a healthy dose of extra power over your current setup.. If you ever decide to try this, Let me know before you start the work..
You can call DJ and order a 144 main jet, 2 needle washers, and a needle clip... Shipping will cost more than the parts..
Pull your lid, put in 144/1N you'll be correct for sea level up to close to 2K with a healthy dose of extra power over your current setup.. If you ever decide to try this, Let me know before you start the work..