One last update and then I'll stop cluttering up the MCM thread with my carb problems. Had a chance to try some other carb configurations yesterday. Started by pulling the carb and giving everything a thorough cleaning, and reassembled with a 132 main. Since the consensus seemed to be that the rough spot was being caused by overfueling, I tried reinstalling the original needle and spring. The bike fell on it's face at about 4K RPM and refused to accelerate any further. Then tried various setups with the dynojet needle, both springs, different clip positions, etc. All were better than the stock parts, but still had the rough spot. Finally settled on the Dynojet needle at clip 5 (richest) with the 132 Main, 35 Pilot, and screw at 3 turns out. It's the smoothest I can get it to run with the parts I have on hand, and also happens to be the richest setup I have on hand. Does that mean that I'm actually feeling a really lean spot, not rich? After 6K RPM it pulls nicely. Another new symptom is that sometimes when closing the throttle and pulling in the clutch to coast to a stop, the bike will die. It fires right back up, but still annoying.

I see someone else seemed to have the exact issue I'm experiencing, unfortunately the thread never went anywhere:
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...t-4k-5k-40469/

While the carb was off, I tried the shopvac test and the slide seems to move freely through it's entire range and seems to operate correctly.

Now considering ordering larger jets to try, or just giving up on the Keihin and pulling the trigger on a TM36-68. Was hoping the MCM would result in some free additional usable horsepower, but it didn't turn out that way Guess I could always undo the MCM and go back to what worked.

 

Snowdrifter, I am sorry that I was unable to be more helpful before.. I simply didn't have the knowledge I now have.. Recently I have been helping another member with his '09 carb setup. A stumbling at 4-5.5k seemed to indicate a "fuel dump", so we proceeded with exhaustive carb checks and cleaning - to no avail.. When we finally sprayed the return spring for a check on the seal - it revealed itself.

Your issue is likely another case of leaking butterfly shaft seal(s). Stumbling in the midrange with known working setups, it seems, will likely always be leaking shaft seals with an otherwise correctly functioning carb.

Since your not accepting PM's .. I'll add that this leakage produces a potpourri of symptoms likely based on the degree to which its' leaking - with the midrange "stumble" seemingly being a common denominator. It is obviously not a fuel dump. It's effects are confounding and don't follow conventional wisdom.

In my case we were able to fuel his bike with the stock needle only. Any additional fuel by way of the DJ needle on any clip setting would fail.

Here is your links to the problem: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...replace-43126/
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ustment-42921/

 

Wow, thanks Klxster. A new direction to take and something that can be easily checked. Will definitely troubleshoot this as soon as I get time. Also, wasn't aware that I couldn't get PM's. Changed settings, should be gtg now.

 

Klxster gave you the links to the detailed threads. I would add to check for vacuum leaks everywhere to be sure. Also in the diaphragm cap to make sure it is seated correctly.

From all my reading regarding the shaft seal leak it seems to be easily caused by time or chemicals in carb cleaners, which was my case.

good luck, cheers

 

I just finished doing this mod and the hardest part is pushing out the ARC and timing it correctly. I tried putting the cam in two wood blocks like the OP did but the 20 ton press at work pushed the cam through the wood. I then went with a bearing removing plate and back in the press. It took a cosiderable amount to push it out. The hardest part is getting it installed exactly In the right position on the cam. You only have one shot at this because you would have to press it back off and do it again and my feeling is that the cam would not hold the ARC in as well. We have to remember Kawi never designed the ARC to be removed. I pressed mine on and coated the inside with loctite to secure it.

 

So, Ruggybunny, how do you like the new powah ?

 

No idea, I finished installing the cams last night but still have to put the tank and seat back on. It was getting late so I called it a day. I'll finish it up tonight after work.

One thing that did surprise me was how tight the timing chain is. Even with the tensioner complete remove the chain was tight. I was expecting it to go loose on the tensioner side but it was still snug. I had to "walk" the cams in place. The bike only has about 2,000 miles on it so not sure if this is a normal new condition.

 

Make sure to slowly turn it over by hand first!!

 

Did that to verify the marks, chain was still tight. A little concern before I start it.

 

I advocate not starting the engine until lengthy checks are done. With the plug pulled, you can turn it over by hand and with the starter. This allows lengthy checks and rechecks until you are satisfied that all is well..

I also had issues with the cam chain being, seemingly, too tight. I have no idea how this can happen but I do understand that it can happen. I spent a great deal of time trying to figure that one out. Finally, I ran the bike at idle with zero tension, then did a little light riding , it seemed ok so I just rode it like that..