i will try not to be a pain in the butt

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Old 10-24-2014, 12:45 AM
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Default i will try not to be a pain in the butt

since i found this forum im like a kid in a candy store for the wealth of info you guys have. next question how often do you need to check the valve clearence . i only have 250 miles in three weeks so in a year maybe 2000 at the most .we have long cold winters here.was looking at service manual i bought they say once a year i think that might be overkill or is it.any info would be appreciated.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:02 AM
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have yet to check mine on my 07 at 5k miles. No issues noted.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:38 AM
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Every 7500 miles. Mine runs/starts much better after the first time I changed the shims @ 15K. It was on the tight side but still in spec, so I opened the valves up to the high side of tolerance.
You've got a few years before you need to do anything at your rate of mileage/year.
Ride and enjoy.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximusPrime
Every 7500 miles. Mine runs/starts much better after the first time I changed the shims @ 15K. It was on the tight side but still in spec, so I opened the valves up to the high side of tolerance.
You've got a few years before you need to do anything at your rate of mileage/year.
Ride and enjoy.
When you reshimmed for tight valves, do you replace the shim with a smaller one or "clearance" (file, sand, mill...) the original shim??? When I checked my lash I was at the tight side on the intake, ex was right in the middle...1000km on my '14
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:56 PM
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New shim & keep a log of the sizes/clearances for keeping track of changes.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:36 PM
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You need a shop/service manual.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
You need a shop/service manual.
+1 and go to: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...manuals-37525/
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyTracks
When you reshimmed for tight valves, do you replace the shim with a smaller one or "clearance" (file, sand, mill...) the original shim??? When I checked my lash I was at the tight side on the intake, ex was right in the middle...1000km on my '14
You replace the current shim with a new one. Smaller shim for more open, bigger shim to tighten.
Read the valve adjustment sticky. It explains how to do the math for what you'll need.
But I'll give a shot at explaining it...folks, please correct any mistakes.
For instance my original shims were 3.00. My clearance, let's say for example(not real numbers), was 0.12, but I need it to be anywhere from 0.15-0.20. To get to the middle, I'd need to use a shim that is 0.05 thinner(2.95), landing me at 0.17. A 2.90 would make the clearance too much at 0.22.
Clear as mud?
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:40 PM
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The time line for adjusting the valves sounded like overkill by the time I hit 7500 miles I will be 62 I would think that would be my first and last time doing it .back in the day 1975 I put 5300 miles on my Suzuki 500 titan from memorial day to labor day ah to be 19 again
 
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximusPrime
You replace the current shim with a new one. Smaller shim for more open, bigger shim to tighten.
Read the valve adjustment sticky. It explains how to do the math for what you'll need.
But I'll give a shot at explaining it...folks, please correct any mistakes.
For instance my original shims were 3.00. My clearance, let's say for example(not real numbers), was 0.12, but I need it to be anywhere from 0.15-0.20. To get to the middle, I'd need to use a shim that is 0.05 thinner(2.95), landing me at 0.17. A 2.90 would make the clearance too much at 0.22.
Clear as mud?
I understand all that. What would be the problem with lapping that .05 versus buying a new shim??
 


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