hey i need a bit of help on some "rookie" questions w/the KLX250

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Old 02-16-2014, 01:07 AM
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Default hey i need a bit of help on some "rookie" questions w/the KLX250

just brought home a '12 KLX250s, 1500 miles and first two services done by prior owner. i don't have much experience with bikes and my previous 2 were both FI (Yamaha & Honda).

when i'm not riding the KLX and it's just in the garage, do i need to keep the "fuel flap" in the off position or can it be left to on? it was 'on' when i trailered the bike home and when i unloaded the bike noticed a small puddle of gasoline...is that from having the flap/valve to 'on' while not actually running the engine?

also, and this is REALLY stupid but i don't know where else to ask ... the choke. to start the engine when it is cold i need to pull that choke **** all the way back right? does it reset to a 'default' position? seems that after a couple of minutes it had sort of 'reset'. after the engine has started do i have to push that back in before riding? i know these are really stupid questions to the point of embarrassing but i'd rather ask then screw something up because of ignorance.

lastly, i am about 210lbs (i lift bro, no fattie here)..but what should i be doing with the suspension as everything i read says the bike is setup by factory for a "150lb rider". my primary riding will be trails; not anything technical, just things like logging roads, etc. i wouldn't know what to 'feel' for to know if it is setup for my weight or not, or what the pros/cons are to making any adjustments...

ok thanks if anyone takes the time to provide any info on the above, and feel free to laugh at my expense.
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:20 AM
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You don't need to turn the petcock (fuel) off after every ride, but do when trailering as you've learned. The choke should only need to pulled out briefly to let the bike get going and then push it all the way in. Not sure what you mean by it resetting.
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:38 AM
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On the choke, there is no clear formula on how, when, and how much you use. It depends a lot on altitude, current jetting, and bike mods. I have a pumper now, but when I had the OEM carb, it would vary greatly on where I was as to how the choke performed...Colorado high country or Texas Big Bend country. With the OEM carb I pretty much always had to use the choke to start it. But once it fired, depending on location, it varied as to how long I had to leave it on. Experiment a bit to see what works for you.
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:44 AM
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ok ty both. trial and error i'm sure will be the best teacher right?
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:13 AM
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I weigh 200# and I use the oe springs front and rear. I think the best fix I made was to install some gold valves on the forks-it made them much better when riding off road. I have been able to get the rear to my liking by adjusting preload and then fine tuning comp/rebound. I do some 'spirited' single track runs through the woods and it hasn't tried to buck me off yet.
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:11 AM
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Jeff,
Welcome to the KLX and KawForums. Good to have another KLX owner. This is the place for us!

My opinion is that the petcock (flapper) should always be turned off on this bike when transported or left for more than a few hours. And a good habit to turn it off for a bit before shutting the bike off. Run some of the fuel out of the bowl. Run most of it out if the bike will be setting for days before starting again.

My choke lever would sometimes shut "off" on its own after running for a while. When you start to ride, just make sure its pushed in all the way and off. You will get used to it. Get to know the bike and its habits. You will find when the choke needs to be on to start it.

And, around this forum, there are very few "stupid" questions. We welcome new riders, new owners, and any related questions. Ask away!

At your weight, if you ride trails or even the street more aggressively you will find that the stock suspension is weak. It is designed for a 150# or so rider. However, there are many riders of our size (I'm 200+ a few) just fine for their use if not too aggresive. If you ever feel that you're bottoming out the suspension or that it's harsh, particularly so on the front end through rough bumps, check back and the members here will help you set it up better. I put in stiffer springs and valved the forks, but that's only because I found it harsh in the whoops and rougher trails. But it was okay on FS roads.

 

Last edited by IDRIDR; 02-16-2014 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:58 PM
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Ty IDRIDR!
 
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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I think I replied to your post in the ADV riders if it was there. If not, there's another rider with "stupid" questions. As a teacher and as a student, in stereotypical fashion, I will tell you the only stupid question is the unasked question.

If your carb functions properly the gas need not be turned off. If there is spillage the float may be set a bit high allowing some fuel flow into the bowl that will leak out the drain tube or there may be dirt in the float needle not allowing it to seat (but that would show if the bike is sitting still too).

As for the choke, it is not a choke in the true sense. Honda uses a true choke on many of their bikes - a butterfly flap in front of the slide that blocks off air flow allowing the mix to become rich. Kawasaki almost always uses carbs with enrichener circuits. They channel some air flow that mixes with gas to go around the slide through a small circuit into the throat behind the slide for a rich starting mix. It does not really function after about 1/4 throttle which, when cold, may be a stumble and, when warm, does nothing.

You can actually ride with the enrichener on with a warm engine, only finding it is too rich when at low throttle or idle. When at higher settings it won't make much difference.

It is also almost uncontrollable and causes the notorious Kawasaki high idle - about 4000 rpm. You can attempt to control it sliding the **** in, but it's very unpredictable. Honda's real choke can easily be controlled.

So now you know about enricheners versus real chokes. Most dual sports and off roaders do not have a choke, most have the enrichener.
 
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:01 AM
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Some folks close the petcock and run the engine until it runs out of gas and dies as the theory is it helps with the next cold start-up if you remember to turn it back on before trying to start the bike. My 09 has never had the petcock closed as I haven't found the need only turned between normal and reserve. The gas that came out was from an overflow and it happens when gas is sloshed in the tank. The choke needs to be pushed in once you notice the idle get fast, if you push it in too soon the bike will stumble and it needs to be out a little longer. As far as suspension goes you should be fine for quite awhile as the bike would need to be pushed hard before there would be any issues, and I can say this as I'm about 250lbs with a lot of experience and haven't found the need to upgrade and I've jumped the bike 50 or so feet on numerous occasions.
 
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:36 AM
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it has always been my habit to shut off the peacock before my destination and let the engine shut off on own...
 
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