So is that squirting fresh gas in the cylinder that the carb by its self can't do? Someone explain the theory of operation.

 

Running your carb dry is only good if your letting it set for a while that won't help with the hard starting problem unless you let the gas go bad ...... The choke when pulled out opens a circuit in the carb straight to the bowl and when you crank the egine over it pulls vacum and it caused it to pull gas from the bowl......If you open your throttle it pulls less vacum and won't pull the gas up....sometimes on some bikes if you open the throttle and then close it as you crank the engine it seems to pull more fuel at the point the throttle closes.....just hold your hand up to your vacum cleaner hose if you don't block it off see how it pulls if you close 3/4 of it see how hard it pulls then...that is the way a carb works with the on....the older carbs just like on you lawn mower works with a butterfly you close it and it pulls more fuel.....and engine is nothing more than an air pump with a spark added and some fuel you have an engine.....Our carb works with a choke that opend a passage to the fule bowl....so don't hold your throttle open at all when you try to start the bike just pull the choke and start it and let it run a minute till you can push the choke in.....and to get more technical if you added high lift long duration cams you will have even less vacum there are so many things that change the way an engine runs....I feel that our carb is not the best by any means but unless you change it what else can we do.....The primer is a very good solution as long as you can keep the fitting seal where it enters the carb boot....hope this helps a little .....soon all the bikes will be EFI and then it will start [:@]

 

Ingenious solution for the stock carb!

A pumper carb essentially does the same thing, twisting the throttle will squirt gasoline directly into the intake port due to the mechanical pump.

I tend to agree with the hole in the carb boot. Eventually it might vibrate enough to enlarge the whole and you'll end up with a vacuum leak.

 

RE: The boot.

The best solution is to find some unused realestate in the carb body right before the air-intake boot. Drill a hole and insert a 1/8" brass fitting.

However, the boot mod I did seems really secure.
1st off, I did'nt cut the boot, I carefully drilled it with a 1/8" bit.
DO NOT CUT IT! That could open up.
After I drilled it, I lightly scuffed the boot surface with sandpaper around the hole I drilled.
I inserted a plasic 1/8" fitting into the hole. I scuffed the outside of the fitting also.
At that point it was being held in place by a friction-fit with the boot.
I then got some clear "marine GOOP" cement and applied it to the scuffed surface of the boot and the fitting. When you mount up the tube to the fitting, be sure to leave enough slack as to not pull on the fitting or put side presure on it.

GOOP is flexible, bonds really well, and is fuel resistant.
I think it will hold well for the long haul. Having said that, I still think the best bet is to find a place on the carb body and put your fitting there.

Cheers

 

Yes that would be the best and what you did should work fine ......to bad we can't enlarge the passage in the carb to let more fuel pass through it when the choke is pulled

 

Doesn't the stock carb have a vacuum port there all ready? The hose hooked up to it goes to the air valve on the "smog" system. Most people have bypassed this anyway and capped the ports.

 

The stock carb has like 5 hoses coming out of it.
I think two on each side that hang out under the bike are drain tubes. If you blow through one, it vents through the other.
There is another that goes into the crankcase. That one might work if you can keep the gas from flowing back into the motor.

Another shoots up under the gas tank. I was lazy and didnt try to follow it. That one is your best bet?

 

Not a bad idea. Use a vaccum port. I wonder a stock carb has an extra port without giving up the smog equipment.

 

I just tilt mine toward the kickstand side for about 5 seconds and it kicks right off every time. But I keep it in my garage which seems to stay about 45 degrees even when its in the teens outside. Still...If I don't tilt it first, it'll just crank & not start. It's pretty easy to tilt a KLX for 5 seconds and no fuel ever comes out for me. I think people that see me doing think I almost dropped it and am having troube getting it stood back up. LOL

 

I wonder if Kawasaki addresses this problem in the 08/09 models?
This is a problem with the KLX140 also I have heard.