No need if they don't have anything. It is just common DOT4 fluid.

Do not use DOT5, there was just an answer to a question about using it in either Motorcyclist or Cycle World this last issue. Seems it is easily contaminated, requiring a totally clean - of old fluid too - brake system. If bores or any mating surfaces are not perfect it can leak out easier than DOT4. It can swell seals a bit causing sticky braking. Water doesn't mix, thus it will settle in the caliper corroding the area where it concentrates. If in bleeding you are a bit overzealous and get any air in the fluid it is extremely slow to settle out. AKA more headache than it is worth. It is absolutely more for racing than for daily use.

 

The brake lines I have said use DOT3 or DOT4.

any real difference?

I have a bottle of DOT3, thinking about just using that. since I have already have it handy.

Put the brake lines on today, will post a edited video later. of removal.

all the tools you need are in the bag that came with the bike.

the only other tool I used was a 12mm box end wrench. to remove the rear brake line. because of clearance issues.

and a mighty vac I got for Christmas one year. to make removal and bleeding of brake fluid 10x easier.

got the brake lines back on, will bleed the brake lines tomorrow or the next day.

 

I've been using Motul 5.1 in my junk, so far so good. I haven't noticed anything negative about it but I also bleed my brakes every 3-4 months. I'll have to double check the specs and compare to the normal stuff, I'm pretty certain I did my research before I bought it but now I'm second guessing my self. Anyone else run Motul?

 

Keep in mind that DOT5 brake fluid and DOT 5.1 brake fluid are not the same
I have used Wagner 5.1 brake fluid in all my bikes and cars for years and have never had a problem with it.
DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and should not be used in your motorcycle
DOT 5.1 is glycol based and is a higher performance fluid to the DOT3 and DOT4 fluids.
It's rated as severe duty and is not as easy to find as DOT3 and 4

You can safely mix DOT3, 4, and 5.1 fluids although it's not recommended

The main thing to remember about brake fluid is that it's hygroscopic and will absorb moisture so you should purge your brake and clutch fluids every year.
If you can find your brake fluid in a metal can, that's best because the plastic containers commonly used today will actually absorb moisture over time.
So always use fresh brake fluid when it's time to change your fluids.

If you want more information check these links


http://www.sector111.com/images/prod...ke%20Fluid.pdf

https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm

Brake Fluid Properties

Doug

 

alright. I bled the brake fluid today in the lines.

After several un-successful attempts at bleeding the front caliper with the mighty vac, I did it old-school with the help from JP-Cycles youtube video on bleeding brakes.

the problem was the master cylinder for the front is so small, that the mighty vac was to strong and emptied the master cylinder when opening the bleeder screw.

that wasn't the only problem tough!

On the front brake I couldn't get it to build pressure, so I eyeballed the directions again and decided to reverse how I had put the front brake line on. which was a problem!

after I reversed the brake line on the master cylinder and caliper, three squeezes, and some turns of the bleeder screw the front brake was tight. not really noticeably tighter than stock, but tight.

the rear brake is a different story! It seemed like the brake fluid had gone bad, it was a brown color and didn't smell like brake fluid.

since the rear master cylinder is bigger and sits level with the bike, I was able to use the mighty vac the first half of the bleeding process. I used it to bring brake fluid through from the master cylinder to the brake line and out to the bleeder screw, then turned the might vac off , and kept building pressure by pumping the brake by hand, and turning the bleeder screw open and closed. pump and build pressure, hold the brake, open the bleeder screw, let fluid escape, then close the bleeder screw shut, while the pedal is still down. if you pump the brake with the bleeder screw open, it will allow air back in the line.

don't know if its because the brake fluid was bad, or the new line, but there is a real noticeable difference in the rear brake feel.

haven't got a chance to drive it yet.

gonna tie the front brake to the handle bar, and rear brake to the frame, and let it sit overnight to make sure nothing leaks.