First time doing a seal repair. The bike only has 700 miles, about 300 of which were ridden while the left fork seal was leaking. Then it sat in a garage for 2 years. The leak isn't major. Even after sitting for 2 years it still has oil leaking out of it, though there can't be much left and I definitely don't want to keep riding it while nearly empty. I'm fairly sure it ripped due to one small nick on the tube below the leak, which I already sanded down.

My question is, is it likely that the bushings will need replaced as well based on the conditions, even after only 700 miles? Or should I just break the fork down to look at them before I order the parts?

 

That kind of mileage should have no effect on the bushings. They are relatively cheap, but yours should have little wear. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Alright. I just got a pack of seals and dust seals which saves me some money. Thanks!

 

Working on most of these USD forks can be a little bit of a PITA. If your bottom damper bolt spins without releasing the damper rod, you might have to make a make-shift damper rod holder like the factory special tool to retain it. Sometimes even a good air impact wrench won't spin the bolt loose because of Loctite on the bolt. I made a holding tool out of an old aluminum bicycle seat post, and it worked great. I just used a hacksaw and file to grind the 4 prongs into the seat post to hold the damper rod. It doesn't take much.

 

Or you could do it hillbilly method if you don't have an impact wrench. Remove forks, take off caps and take out retaining clip, spacer and springs. Fill one of the tubes to near the top with oil from the other tube. Replace the cap, put a floor jack under the fork with the top of the fork wedged under something solid. Jack it up until pressure inside pushes the old seal out. Repeat with other tube.

The new seal can be installed by pushing it down over the top tube until it seats. You will have to use some kind of seal driver to seat it, usually a piece of PVC pipe placed down over the top tube.

THEN you can break out the moonshine and have a swig.

 

I may be missing something in your description, but I'm getting the impression that you're referring to fork seals in a conventional fork vs. USD forks.

 

Sorry about that. After 30+ bikes over 45+ years I've got to move my thinking into the modern era.

Or at least go out in the shed and take a look at the KLX. I'm surprised that such a bargain-basement bike has those trick forks.

 

I was going to make a new thread but since the discussion of fork seal installation is still going...

So I made out pretty well so far but I think I (may) have a small problem. I used the trick of turning the old seal into a seal driver by cutting out a section and sanding down the edges. I placed the parts back on in the correct order, drove the new seal in flush, and the indentation for the seal clip is visible all around so it seems to be in far enough. But when I pull the inner fork back out to the point it bottoms out, part of the recessed area comes out. Is this normal/ok? As long as I can fit the clip back in, is that all I need to worry about? See pic.

 

Also figured I should note, I didn't remove the damper rod. The tutorials I saw didn't mention it and it didn't seem necessary? Just removed the top cap from the piston rod, took the spring out, drained oil, then went down below to remove the seal clip, and finally separated the two parts with minimal force. The bushings seemed to have very little wear btw.

 

My own 2 cents after studying it for a while. Looking at the fork construction, it seems that the distance between the upper bushing and the start of recessed area, is about the same width as the lower bushing and washer. As in, when the two bushings and all parts are touching it's inevitable that the seal rests over the recessed area. But once I pull the piston rod out and reattach the top lid, the length of the piston rod will prevent the fork from extending out that far. So I'm thinking it'll be fine? Going to finish reassembly, and if I'm wrong, well, I'll just take it apart again :P. Will still value any input.