The 2206 was developed for the KLX300. There are many of us who've successfully applied it to the 250. The 2152 wasn't available until around 2010. The 2206 needle appears to be a bit more aggressive than the 2152. If you think a big bore may be in your future, that's another reason to go with the 2206.

Get your pilot jets from a Kawasaki OEM dealer if you have one. I'll suggest you also get a #38, but you may not need a larger pilot at all. I tried the 38 and it was way too rich for me so went back to stock #35, but I'm at 3,000 ft and up. Part numbers are in the FAQs (see my sig line).

I ran a 128 main lidless with a 351 big bore. The next size up was too rich and the bike would bog out at WOT.

MCM is in the stickies (Marceleno Cam Mod).

 

I am about 30' ASL in south-central Louisiana and the 40# pilot works great.

May I also suggest you SERIOUSLY consider a Kouba T-Handle fuel mixture screw-- dont do like me and try to avoid the $20 bucks-- I ended up getting one in the end and it is a lifesaver when you are tuning out decel and obtaining a cat-purr smooth idle.

"T"-Handle FuelscrewAir/Fuelscrews

You want the FS-2 on the above page.


I see you already have your pipe, I'd just like to add that Im not so sure the DG-O series is any quieter than an R-Series. DG rates the dB sound levels the same-- I preferred the look of the O series so I got that one. It was so f#%# loud I would get headaches and have ringing ears after even brief rides- I ended up getting the -6dB insert and its acceptable (at least no more headaches), with minimum seat of the pants power difference.

I have a DG RCM 2 on my green Mojave and Im pretty sure the O-Series is louder-- its a loud motherf&^%r!

As far as the MCM mod, it is a rotational adjustment on the intake and exhaust cams that makes the intake begin to open about 10 deg sooner, and the exhaust close 10 degrees later. It brings the cam timing pretty close to what you have on Kawasaki's Mojave sport quad (which IMO should be a good thing!)

It is supposed to help with low and midrange torque and power and many here swear by it, but there is really no hard data available as far as dyno runs to compare it to stock.

 

Thanks Josh128.

I went with the Delkevic 14" Stubby Carbon silencer not a DG. I'm going in kinda blind being there is not much info out there on the Delkevic's so I can not speak to the sound of this slip on, preference fell toward design.

The T handle sound like a great investment and appreciate the info, can you tell me what the FS-2 equates to?

Regards,

 

Houston, don't worry about the DJ " jetting specialist's" opinions. After countless calls to them regarding my dyno results being constantly too lean, we finally figured out why. DJ used a stock KLX to develop the kit - so if you add so much as a slipon, you're off the DJ "reservation" and operating outside their knowledge - combine a slipon with lidless and they are less than useless.

If you want to use the 2206 kit then do it - I am sure it's needle will produce superior throttle response and power levels over the needle in the 2152 kit. He has no idea what the fueling requirements are for a lidless, slipon'd KLX and therefore has no idea about the differences/nuances between the two needles in such an application.

MCM will enhance TRQ production starting just off idle. You pretty much need mechanical aptitude/talent to do the MCM IMHO. Wrongly done, you'll be looking for a new engine.

At near sea level, the #40 pilot is needed but not required. It allows the idle mixture to be fully adjustable and will cure decel popping - it also allows the CVK's simulated "accelerator pump" operation to be richer than stock. Also, once you remove the air injection system, and with a #40, your exhaust temps will drop significantly.

 

FYI, I also own a '07 KLX300R with the exhaust butt plug removed, 2206 kit, DJ146 main jet, lidless, #40 pilot jet... It pulls 1st, and 2nd gear power wheelies and will wheelie in 3rd with a tug on the handlebars.

If you want to start "learnin up" on needles, here is a thread of mine - https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...urments-43117/

The DN0352 needle carries larger diameters further down its' length - this is needed (when running lidless with a properly sized main) in order to better control/maintain a proper AFR in the low to mid range.

 

Latest update:
Called DJ back today and added the 2206 kit to my order (yes I know I'm paying 75 bucks for a slide spring and some washers, guarantee I find a use for some of the extras....someday. Plus I'll chalk it up to cost of being a indecisive DJ kit mod rookie). The link for the needle data is tremendous and will be extremely helpful.

As it currently stands, by Tuesday I'll be armed with;
DJ kit 2206
DJ Kit 2152
DJ140 jet
OEM #40 pilot (ordered from local dealership)
Delvevic 14" Oval Stubby Carbon slip-on

I don't think I've missed anything?

Oh, and a spot in the attic, behind the box of grandma's wedding pictures for an air box lid.

Many, many thanks again!! I'm pretty sure you will be hearing from me again.

 

What is the air injection system? Site unseen I'm guessing some emissions system I should identify and remove? I've seen something on here some regarding removing anti-smog stuff.

 

I'm sure there is a good thread on removing the smog/air injection system.. It's the canister +hoses that allow fresh air to be injected at the exhaust port (internal to the head) .. This canister+hoses system can be removed and all ports capped off..

If you ever choose to get a full (performance) exhaust system (Header+matching slipon), you'll certainly need the needle in the 2206 kit installed - the 2152 needle(DN028) "just barely" controls low and mid range fueling with lidless+DJ144 main jet (You use a DJ144 main jet with full exhaust, near sea level.)

Anyway, to set up your carb for lidless running, with slipon, near sea level (below 2k ASL) -

If you want to be adventurous and perhaps find some additional power (over my charted recipe) below 6.5-7k RPM:

- DJ140 main jet.
- DJ slide spring from the 2152 kit.
- Needle from the 2206 kit with clip on 3N (3rd notch down from the needles' top)
- #40 pilot with fuel screw initial setting at 2 turns out from lightly seated..

NOTE: Go this way and you'll be in uncharted waters. You will, in effect, become our newest "tuner/tester". This recipe should work perfectly - assuming you do the work without messing up something - you'll love the power but you'll never know if more is available with a slight tweak - say clip at 4N or perhaps 2N - unless you try it.. Sure, you can stay with what you get initially, or you can tweak it - become a "tuner". And if there is a motorcycle dyno shop nearby that will cut you a deal on "before and after" dyno runs, you can make "history"..

Or follow my charted/verified and member tested recipe:

2152 kit only
- DJ140
- The DJ slide spring in the kit, of course.
- clip on 2N
- Same as above concerning pilot jet and fuel screw.

The only difference between these two choices will be the fueling curve, therefore power and throttle response, below 7k RPM. (Above 7K @ WOT is main jet fueling only.)

 

The FS-2 is not a jet, just a pilot air/fuel mixture adjustment screw that you can adjust while the carb is on the bike, unlike the stock, which you can only do when the carb is off the bike. I believe the actual plunger /tip length and diameter are equal to the stock adjustment screw.

 

Its worth noting that the 300R weighs about 60lbs less and has much shorter gearing than the 250s all while having a 3 or 4 HP advantage-- so dont expect to even come close to this on the 250s.