Exhaust gets extremely hot and heats the chassis too much. Help!.

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  #11  
Old 05-07-2014, 06:49 AM
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Kinda embarrassing that more than a few can't remember (or don't know about) the most basic of our mods and why we do them.
 
  #12  
Old 05-08-2014, 12:15 AM
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Hi Guys,

Thanks a lot for all your advice. I am ordering a FMF Q4 Muffler in order to eliminate the spark arrester and the catalytic converter, I hope to have it installed in around one month then I will try and let you know the results.

In parallel I talked to a friend who is had two motorcycles and he had the same problem with a BMW motorcycle who melted the air box due to a similar problem with the exhaust system, he bought a gas analyzer to test and adjust the fuel/air mix in order to avoid gasoline burning in the catalytic converter and after tuning the carburetor it was fixed. Let's see if it works for my KLX.

I will keep you informed guys.

Once again thank you for all your support.

Great posts!!
 
  #13  
Old 05-08-2014, 03:48 AM
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What size/type of vacuum tube caps do you use to seal off the openings when the smog stuff is removed?
 
  #14  
Old 05-08-2014, 03:53 AM
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Autozone sells a multi pack of vinyl caps of assorted sizes/colors. These hold up better than the black rubber variety. One pack will have the needed sizes with some left over for other projects.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:28 AM
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The caps can also be bought at Home Despot individually, if you don't have an AutoZone nearby you.
 
  #16  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:52 PM
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For the 3 or 4 years I rode the little bike in 250cc form I never did the smog delete as I found no reason to. The exhaust gets warm but only when the bike was running and no worse than any of my other 4 bikes. I ride in shorts a lot as well as two up that way without issue.
 
  #17  
Old 05-09-2014, 09:44 PM
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i am using a bolt and nail hah
 
  #18  
Old 05-13-2014, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hounderd
Can agree with this.

My exhaust was getting so hot it was melting the plastic. Removing the smog system fixed the problem immediately.
Mine melted the plastic too, after puting the fmf Q4, chassis temps are much better.
 
  #19  
Old 05-18-2014, 10:46 PM
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To seal off the smog stuff looks like you need 2 1/2 inch caps and 1 3/16 inch cap.

I saw several people left the hose on the front and sealed it with a bolt. Is that because of the worry a cap would melt? I don't see why the cap would melt when hose didn't melt.
 
  #20  
Old 05-19-2014, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by klx678
I would bet the cat convertor in the muffler body is the problem along with radiant heat.

The radiant heat from the pipe can be cut using exhaust wrap. Pull the muffler and wrap the pipe and muffler with some heat wrap. You could even wrap the frame and peg if needed. That should help tremendously.

I wouldn't bet on the air injection cutting the temp much, the regular exhaust temp is around 1500 dF or more. Not much reduction. My 650 has no air injection and with the unshielded exhaust in bare steel it was extremely hot on my leg - radiant heat. I got the pipe ceramic coated and the problem was cut a heck of a lot, wrap can do the same.
I don't know, Mark. The air injection system in the exhaust does indeed create some extremely high head pipe temps. That's how it creates a cleaner tailpipe emission, as I'm sure you know. Wrapping the exhaust will definitely help, but ejecting the air injection is a lot easier and more visually appealing for most people over exhaust wrap.

Additionally I agree that as summer temps warm up, the bike seems hot all over regardless of what you do. I can feel my radiators in particular even through thick riding pants, knee/shin guards, and boots. I can't imagine trying to ride bikes with high mount radiators in a pair of shorts. Arguments against the wisdom of riding in shorts aside, at least many street bikes have fairly well designed radiator placement and ducting to alleviate the intense heat off the radiator(s). Most dirt bike designs don't have that luxury.
 


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