Dyno Charts and Tuning 2013 KLX250S

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  #21  
Old 09-28-2016, 02:31 AM
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Finally able to spend some time in the woods this past weekend with the new jetting set-up. Rode 64 miles of single track in the sand of Northern Michigan. This latest set up of the Dynojet 2206 Kit, lidless (1N, with the stock spring) with a DJ 140 main jet has created a completely new experience in the woods. With the stock set up I spent most of my time in 1st - 3rd gear. I needed 1st for all inclines and technical tight stuff and hitting third in many straight a ways. Not the case anymore, I now spend the vast majority in second gear with some help in third in the straights and whoops. The range and low end torque was a completely new experience. I ride with some 450's and have heard them describe being mostly in 2nd and 3rd gear but couldn't relate. I can now. All climbs were successful in second gear and the only time I really used first gear was on steep, technical descents to control speed. The power in second gear from 2 grand to 8 grand is now the sweet spot. I was launching the bike like never before over obstacles and the top of inclines. I knew I needed tires, but had no idea how bad until this past weekend.

I'm anxious about tomorrows Dyno test with this setup.

Up next MCM.

More to come.
 
  #22  
Old 09-28-2016, 08:59 PM
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Looking forward to it.
 
  #23  
Old 09-29-2016, 03:14 AM
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Yes me too Josh128, unfortunately I showed up today and they messed up their schedule and the owner who does my Dyno pulls is off today. I've rescheduled for next Friday the 7th.
 
  #24  
Old 09-29-2016, 02:54 PM
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Running lidless radically increases this delta, causing the slide to respond "vigorously". In fact, with the lighter DJ slide spring, in conjunction with the DJ needles, it is showing to be too aggressive and can create overfueling in the low to mid RPM ranges. Hence, the need for the stock spring.[/QUOTE]

Hi Klxster...could this also be true with the 2152 kit? Thx Kevin
 
  #25  
Old 09-29-2016, 03:25 PM
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I think you mean could this also be true when running the DN0228 needle in the DJ2152 kit..?

The answer is: At this point in time we know that it IS true under two circumstances - with the DN0228@1N when running lidless+ DJ144+full exhaust system(MCM or not)..AND it is true when running the DNO352@1N+DJ140+Slipon(non MCM).. With both being run at or near sea level and with a stock slide lift hole/port(undrilled).. Anyone running these setups should not use the lighter DJ spring from the 2152 kit. They should be running the stock slide spring.

At this point in our knowledge, and in my opinion, it also possible that DN0228@2N+lidless+slipon+NON MCM (near sea level, either drilled or undrilled lift hole/port) would need the stock spring. It will take some member that has a well tuned DynoButt and the above setup, to tell us if throttle response and TRQ ramping below 7k RPM is enhanced with the stock spring vs the DJ spring..
 

Last edited by Klxster; 09-29-2016 at 04:07 PM.
  #26  
Old 09-29-2016, 03:51 PM
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If your "previously loved" KLX has a "previously drilled" slide lift hole, you certainly should not install the lighter DJ spring from the 2152 kit under any circumstances..
 

Last edited by Klxster; 09-29-2016 at 04:06 PM.
  #27  
Old 09-29-2016, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
I think you mean could this also be true when running the DN0228 needle in the DJ2152 kit..?

The answer is: At this point in time we know that it IS true under two circumstances - with the DN0228@1N when running lidless+ DJ144+full exhaust system(MCM or not)..AND it is true when running the DNO352@1N+DJ140+Slipon(non MCM).. With both being run at or near sea level and with a stock slide lift hole/port(undrilled).. Anyone running these setups should not use the lighter DJ spring from the 2152 kit. They should be running the stock slide spring.

At this point in our knowledge, and in my opinion, it also possible that DN0228@2N+lidless+slipon+NON MCM (near sea level, either drilled or undrilled lift hole/port) would need the stock spring. It will take some member that has a well tuned DynoButt and the above setup, to tell us if throttle response and TRQ ramping below 7k RPM is enhanced with the stock spring vs the DJ spring..
So....it sounds like the stock spring with the 2152 kit installed, 2N, 140 jet, lidless and slipon could potentially produce more low/mid end than the softer 2152 spring. Does this sound correct or am I way off? Would 1N be better or worse or do I already have the best set up with sliponlidless 2152 kit and spring and 2N)? Thx Kevin
 
  #28  
Old 09-30-2016, 12:22 PM
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You are correct. It is possible. In the last analysis, DJ140/2N lidless with slipon, is a calculated setup based on my dyno testing - That testing includes the MCM cam timing mod which you don't have. So, it is possible that non MCM bikes could use a leaner low/mid range fueling curve - we simply do not know.

If you want to set up specific,repeatable, tests for low/mid throttle response (starting from RPM's of 3k - 5K) and WOT power ramping from 3-7K in perhaps 2nd and 3rd gears, you should be able to provide an answer. Do only one change at a time though.

I'd do the stock spring first - test for a more positive lifting of the front tire to throttle snaps from various starting RPM's below 5K, then test WOT power curve 3-7k in 2nd and/or 3rd.. Whether the results are good or bad, you still have "DJ spring with 1N" , then "stock spring + 1N" to test..

I'll not offer an opinion about all this as preconceived notions and expectations will taint testing outcomes. A mind clear of such and focused only on objective testing is required for good assessments. Or a Dyno session..
 

Last edited by Klxster; 09-30-2016 at 12:33 PM.
  #29  
Old 09-30-2016, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
You are correct. It is possible. In the last analysis, DJ140/2N lidless with slipon, is a calculated setup based on my dyno testing - That testing includes the MCM cam timing mod which you don't have. So, it is possible that non MCM bikes could use a leaner low/mid range fueling curve - we simply do not know.

If you want to set up specific,repeatable, tests for low/mid throttle response (starting from RPM's of 3k - 5K) and WOT power ramping from 3-7K in perhaps 2nd and 3rd gears, you should be able to provide an answer. Do only one change at a time though.

I'd do the stock spring first - test for a more positive lifting of the front tire to throttle snaps from various starting RPM's below 5K, then test WOT power curve 3-7k in 2nd and/or 3rd.. Whether the results are good or bad, you still have "DJ spring with 1N" , then "stock spring + 1N" to test..

I'll not offer an opinion about all this as preconceived notions and expectations will taint testing outcomes. A mind clear of such and focused only on objective testing is required for good assessments. Or a Dyno session..
Well....it's a bit late to try only one, as I did both last night I didn't get out for a good ride, just 2 minutes on my street in 1st gear. Absolutely no hesitation anywhere. Will pull the front wheel up, throttle only. Doesn't seem to matter what rpm you're at, but larger wheelies will probably be in the sweet spot which I haven't had a chance to fiqure out yet. I have no idea what 2nd or higher will do, plus what this has done to the high rpm range. I would say at this point that low/mid is better, plus I got rid of the 5-5,500 rpm hesitation. Maybe the heavier stock spring helped with this. I will try to get a better handle over the weekend and see what higher rpms and higher gears feel like. Right now I'm just happy I have no hesitation. Hopefully it doesn't show up on higher gears. BTW, with the other setup, when I 1st made the change, it didn't bog between 5-5,500 rpm, but you could always feels a slack in the power before the 6,000 rpm power kicked in.
 

Last edited by kshanks5; 09-30-2016 at 12:50 PM.
  #30  
Old 09-30-2016, 01:58 PM
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Kevin, until you have completed your testing, I'll keep my comments to a bare minimum (which is hard for a blabber mouth like me to do..lol). I do not want to give opinions and information that could taint your results.

Try to not "expect" any particular result anywhere in the powerband. Simply assess results as best you can.

You are doing "cutting edge" testing that may further define/refine the CVK setup recipe for running lidless with slipon near sea level - assuming your stuttering/sputtering issue does not interfere.

Certainly looking forward to more results!
 

Last edited by Klxster; 09-30-2016 at 02:15 PM.


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