My KLX is having clutch issues... maybe tranny issues. I hope it's just the clutch. It's a new EBC Dirt Rider Clutch with Barnett springs that I put in when I did the 351.

Yesterday when starting out on the day's ride, I couldn't shift into 2nd gear. I thought it was my new boots, but it wasn't. I had to grab the lever by hand and yank it up into 2nd. After that, it shifted fine. I did have to do that same thing one more time during the day though.

Also when stopped, it's a major pain to find neutral. It's physically difficult to shift, particularly upshift.

There's no slop in the clutch lever and it engages right away as you start to let the clutch out... kinda makes it easy to stall.

I know the one adjustment up at the lever itself is to set the cable tension. What does the other adjustment farther down do? I've never had to adjust a clutch before.

My DR650 is just the opposite.. it engages once the lever is all the way out, so I need to do the opposite to it.

Thanks!

Rob

 

If it's engaging right after you let it out from the handlebar, then it's likely not completely disengaging the clutch plates when the lever is pulled in, which would make it hard to shift. the top adjuster doesn't adjust 'tension', but adjusts where in the clutch lever it engages and disengages the clutch itself - it's basically adjusting the length of the clutch cable, which adjusts the point in the clutch lever movement that engages the clutch.

Just turn the adjuster until the clutch is engaging/disengaging closer to the end of the clutch lever travel (farthest from the bar) and that should resolve the problem. The other adjuster should do the same thing, but is only needed if the adjuster at the clutch lever isn't adjusting far enough.

 

Thank you! That was super easy. Five minutes later my clutch is now engaging right about mid-way and the tranny is shifting much better. Same with the DR650.

Rob

 

I think the manual, or something else I read, said the lower adjuster is for course adjusting and the lever-end adjuster for fine tuning. I like to keep the lever-end adjuster closer to all the way in, and not too far out (less likelihood of breakage).

 

Scott, you're right on the mark. You want the cable contained in as much of the housing as possible up at the lever because of the potential contact of the cable and the adjustment barrel. Down at the actuating arm at the clutch cover, you have a long, straight shot from the end of the cable housing to the arm...and no barrel adjuster to rub the inner cable wire at extreme angles.

 

Hey Rob, it looks like you fixed the problem. But if not, and you do experience difficulty shifting or getting neutral again, it could possibly be that pesky shift star. I know when I put the new and improved shift star (ordered a 2012 model shift star from www.bikebandit.com) in mine, first gear and neutral were easier. A nice smooth, light "pop" firmly into first gear following a slow firm press on the shift lever, as opposed to a somewhat hard tap-down on the shift lever to get first before, and even then sometimes it wouldn't go in the first time. Never had that issue since the new shift star; shifting through all the gears and neutral is ultra smooth. Just a thought.