Brake/Clutch levers: OEM vs CNC Pivot style & Shorty
#1
Brake/Clutch levers: OEM vs CNC Pivot style & Shorty
Just trashed my oem clutch lever and while googling for a replacement numerous references to "cnc pivot" and "shorty" style links come up. The oem lever worked fine and the replacement part is pretty cheap but any good reason to go with something else?
#2
If you have a hard pulling clutch like I "did", think about the Moose Racing EZ3 clutch perch/lever assembly. I now have a VERY Easy 1 finger pull clutch. Wow, what a huge difference. Very happy with it. BTW, get yourself some handguards and you won't break levers anymore. Get ones with the bar, not just the plastic covers.
#3
Got the money to spare, buy the big bucks levers, but I'd do some bark busters first then whatever levers you want. The cnc folding levers are great to save levers, but bark busters can save fingers and hands if you know what I mean.
#5
The Rally Pro X-Strong is a durable injection-molded nylon composite handguard that features an anodized aluminum bar for ultimate protection. It includes an indexed steel bar-end insert that mounts solidly and will not allow the guard to rotate in a crash.
Tough stuff there. The internal aluminum guard is the bomb!
#7
When my levers bent i took them off, cut them down, and grinded/sanded them smooth. My brake lever was bent so badly it looked like a candy cane, but when I cut it down and smoothed out the end, it looked like a shorty lever that i would have otherwise paid for.
#8
These are pretty near 100% effective:
The Rally Pro X-Strong is a durable injection-molded nylon composite handguard that features an anodized aluminum bar for ultimate protection. It includes an indexed steel bar-end insert that mounts solidly and will not allow the guard to rotate in a crash.
Tough stuff there. The internal aluminum guard is the bomb!
The Rally Pro X-Strong is a durable injection-molded nylon composite handguard that features an anodized aluminum bar for ultimate protection. It includes an indexed steel bar-end insert that mounts solidly and will not allow the guard to rotate in a crash.
Tough stuff there. The internal aluminum guard is the bomb!
#9
Well, as I said, near 100%. I will say I run my levers near horizontal to the ground, they won't fit behind the guards unless I cut them down, which I did. Two finger clutch, three finger brake.
I actually did tip hard enough on the 650 that it actually bent the end in slightly at the end, kind of a slight small S bend at the end, bars didn't bend. Never got the levers yet, but then again maybe I don't crash hard enough...
I actually did tip hard enough on the 650 that it actually bent the end in slightly at the end, kind of a slight small S bend at the end, bars didn't bend. Never got the levers yet, but then again maybe I don't crash hard enough...
Last edited by klx678; 05-15-2016 at 11:06 AM.
#10
If you have a hard pulling clutch like I "did", think about the Moose Racing EZ3 clutch perch/lever assembly. I now have a VERY Easy 1 finger pull clutch. Wow, what a huge difference. Very happy with it. BTW, get yourself some handguards and you won't break levers anymore. Get ones with the bar, not just the plastic covers.
Moose Racing - EZ3 Lever Assembly: BTO SPORTS