I second the Kouba T-handle . Make fine tune adjustments so easy.

 

Before I pull of the carb I plan on getting a stage 1 dyno jet kit and T handle fuel mix. Do most dealers sell them or should I order them online? Pull the carb(can it be done without taking the gas tank off?) clean it install the new parts and drill out the jet to either .018 or .020 not sure what one yet

Just noticed your location is lakeville I'm in carver

 

Sweet! Will have to get together when the weather is back.

I didn't bother with the starter jet drilling. The DJ kit did the trick. I use rockymountainatv.

Here for fuel screw.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.koubalink.com/fuelscrew.html&ved=0ahUKEwidqI2SsMrQAhXmxFQKHaffD2 IQFggkMAE&usg=AFQjCNGE_cZS4NiRvBcUI1GPUBkPNH5NAg

If you run into any trouble lmk. I am a tech with 20 years experience.

 

Just got back from a ride. I have yet to change anything on it. But it was a bitch to start I had so spray carb cleaner in to get it to fire then keep the choke out for 5 min before I could push it in without stalling. Went for about a 15 mile ride and when I would let of the gas the exhaust would make a popping sound. Is that normal with the FMF q4 or is that from the mixture not being right?

I wanna order the parts tonight or tomorrow and get the bike starting right but there are so many different opinions on jet size and how big of a hole to drill and I've never worked on carbs before so I'm hesitant about taking it apart and then trying to fine tune it. Nothing's ever easy😂

 

Your lean. That's the popping. Order the dyno jet kit. The directions are very easy. Do stage one or two. Kit comes with jets for both ways.

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2898/23954/Dynojet-Jet-Kit?v=9124

 

Just got back from my buddies house. We pulled the carb. There's a #128 jet with an aftermarket needle. The #35 jet was compliantly clogged so I'll be getting a #40 tomorrow. The fuel screw was 9 turns

 

Yep, I figured so.. But just know that the #40 is optional and really only lets you control decel popping and fine tune low RPM throttle response. The #40 will have to be set "midway between idle drops". Not a fun thing to do but it only needs to be done once. BTW it is not possible for the fuel screw to be 9 turns out - perhaps 3.5 maybe 4 complete turns out, but 9 is not possible - it falls outta the carb a little after 4 IIRC..

 

If you have a DJ128 main jet and a DJ needle, your carb is probably set up with standard DJ stage 2 and your best airbox config would be lid on without the snorkel. Be sure your needle clip is on 3N (3rd notch down from top - the top is the end where the clip notches are..) AND that both needle washers are on top of the clip.

I have posted pics and measurements of the DN0228 and DN0352 needles from both DJ kits usable on the KLX250. You will need to identify your needle. Search and research of our forum threads is a skill you'll need to develop.

Once you have a properly running/operating carb, and no further troubleshooting is needed, you can choose to explore the higher performing "lidless" carb setups we've developed/dyno charted/verified in here..

 

So should I just go with the #35 or #38? The fuel screw cover was already pulled off and we were able to screw it in 9 times could it be an aftermarket screw?