Big Als Blog
#21
I've looked at so many dyno charts and different peoples results. So quick recap. Klxster, your in the neighborhood of 16-17 tq and 21ish hp currently? And The mod gets closer to 24hp on a EFI bike? I'm just making sure I'm not crazy.
I think if I can get the bike to a healthy 25 hp that would be great. I want to get a 331 BB but I'm worried it will be quirky also.
Everything I own is heavily modified and when I got the KLX, my first bike, I was thinking oh I'll just keep it stock and enjoy it. YEAH RIGHT!!! Obviously there is always a trade off when we mod stuff but thats the fun of it.
I think if I can get the bike to a healthy 25 hp that would be great. I want to get a 331 BB but I'm worried it will be quirky also.
Everything I own is heavily modified and when I got the KLX, my first bike, I was thinking oh I'll just keep it stock and enjoy it. YEAH RIGHT!!! Obviously there is always a trade off when we mod stuff but thats the fun of it.
#22
Not sure why this came to my mind but how much bearing does the idle mixture have over the RPM range? I know it should only effect "idle" hence its name, but maybe fine tuning that will improve things? I'm at 2 3/4 turns out right now. Maybe it would be worth bumping it down half a turn since I'm running the 132 main jet vs the 128 like I was.
#23
Hey buddy, the idle mixture only reaches up into the transistion to primary curcuit - no real help.. Just set it to Stage 2 specs - I can't remember how many turns that is but it is correct for my bike and starting is instant.
Hey, do not get caught up in the Dyno chart malaise - Marcelino's charts are DIN HP and @ Crank according to Jeff Ward - nothing we can actually use, nothing we can base anything off of. Do your homework on Dyno testing procedures and variables,read my threads where I talk about it, OR just trust my charts to be accurate SAE corrected runs. My bike shows 19.5 - 19.75 SAE corrected HP at the knobby rear tire. With the full FMF-Megabomb with PC4 - it made 20.71 but with a loss of TRQ below 6k RPM. Study my chart on the FMFvsDG-r thread - you'll see that I loose TRQ when the bike goes lean @ 5250 RPM. With the FMF system, I loose everything @ 8500RPM due to a lean-out.
I agree that approaching 24hp should be possible but not with prevailing wisdom and existing mods - we have to find and test new ideas.
Hey, do not get caught up in the Dyno chart malaise - Marcelino's charts are DIN HP and @ Crank according to Jeff Ward - nothing we can actually use, nothing we can base anything off of. Do your homework on Dyno testing procedures and variables,read my threads where I talk about it, OR just trust my charts to be accurate SAE corrected runs. My bike shows 19.5 - 19.75 SAE corrected HP at the knobby rear tire. With the full FMF-Megabomb with PC4 - it made 20.71 but with a loss of TRQ below 6k RPM. Study my chart on the FMFvsDG-r thread - you'll see that I loose TRQ when the bike goes lean @ 5250 RPM. With the FMF system, I loose everything @ 8500RPM due to a lean-out.
I agree that approaching 24hp should be possible but not with prevailing wisdom and existing mods - we have to find and test new ideas.
Last edited by Klxster; 08-12-2014 at 05:15 PM.
#24
Found a place that dynos bikes. Stupid CARB is crazy here in CA so they can't tune it, which is fine, non the less sucks for others but he's willing to run it for me.
I want to compare apples to apples so what's the best way to have it run? 4th or 5th, SAE and so on. I might even bring my buddy's KLX that is set up exactly how mine was before the MCM as a close baseline.
I want to compare apples to apples so what's the best way to have it run? 4th or 5th, SAE and so on. I might even bring my buddy's KLX that is set up exactly how mine was before the MCM as a close baseline.
#25
Hey this is BIG !
To correlate with my charts -
Dyno Jet Dyno, Roll-on runs starting as low an RPM as possible up to cutoff (or at least to 9k), SAE CF (correction factor),
Smoothing 5 , Rear wheel HP ( usually the default), 4th gear,
Be sure to get operator to format your HP, TRQ, and AFR charts as separate so you can "stack" them on top of each other when printed or uploaded here . See my chart on the FMF vs DG-R thread.
Take a flash drive - pull charts directly off dyno onto the drive, View em first to make sure they stack up nicely to provide detailed analysis.
Oh, Be sure to note or get the CF factor that was applied to your uncorrected HP - this will let you calculate the Actual HP your bike made at the rear wheel.
To correlate with my charts -
Dyno Jet Dyno, Roll-on runs starting as low an RPM as possible up to cutoff (or at least to 9k), SAE CF (correction factor),
Smoothing 5 , Rear wheel HP ( usually the default), 4th gear,
Be sure to get operator to format your HP, TRQ, and AFR charts as separate so you can "stack" them on top of each other when printed or uploaded here . See my chart on the FMF vs DG-R thread.
Take a flash drive - pull charts directly off dyno onto the drive, View em first to make sure they stack up nicely to provide detailed analysis.
Oh, Be sure to note or get the CF factor that was applied to your uncorrected HP - this will let you calculate the Actual HP your bike made at the rear wheel.
Last edited by Klxster; 08-12-2014 at 08:05 PM.
#28
Your bike has the FMF on the stock header and your carb set up like mine and lidless. I think this will show better upper rpm power over my DG-R chart and better power up to 6.5k than my full FMF chart. If so, the FMF slip-ons' with the stock header could be the best compromise and really further our tuning knowledge of the bike.
#29
I'm still running a 14 as well. I think this should be pretty good. I know running a bike just like mine isn't technically "my bike" so I'm not sure how valid before and after will be BUT testing two 2012's with both from the same dealer (big deal), with the same mods both done by me should be pretty close in comparison. Same dyno minutes apart should be pretty good interesting non the less.