Aussie 2010 KLX250S jetting and slip on pipe
#1
05-10-2010, 06:43 AM
Aussie 2010 KLX250S jetting and slip on pipe
Hi guys.
Last week I splashed out on a brand new 2010 KLX250S in Sydney. Straight out of the box I got the dealer to whip the snorkle out and plug the 2 holes in the slider. After my first couple of rides I very nearly had serious buyers remourse as it felt like I was riding a sedated sloth it was so sluggish.
Fortunately, now that it has nearly 200km's on the clock, things have loosened up a bit and she's feeling a little more responsive. I got the dealer to adjust the air/fuel mixture today to hopefully make it a little less lean (down low at least), so I'll see if that help a little too. But what is obvious to me is that I am going to want to get a pipe and re-jet sooner rather than later. I've read these forums a bit and gleened what I can, but I have to admit there is more info to sift through than I have time to. So rather than search for the needle in the haystack I thought I'd ask.
Firstly, my stock jetting is 35 pilot and 132 main. From what I've read, I'd be better off with a 38 pilot and 138 main - but what isn't clear is if that is with the stock pipe or not. It also seems that the FMF Q4 slip on is the way to go, though there is the Muzzy and the Vince to consider as well. My dealer has the Vince, but I can just as easily get an FMF off eBay.
So my question is this: if I get the Q4 slip on, what jets should I change to (so I can order them at the same time)? I am pretty much at sea level here in Sydney, with temps ranging anywhere from the low 20C up to 45C on the worst hot days.
Any and all help is much appreciated. I will probably wait till I've done about 1000km's before I do the pipe and jetting - pretty much after the first dealer service (though given how much the engine has loosened up I think I'll be changing the oil and filter myself this coming weekend to clear out all the worn metal and crud!).
Thanks in advance.
Last week I splashed out on a brand new 2010 KLX250S in Sydney. Straight out of the box I got the dealer to whip the snorkle out and plug the 2 holes in the slider. After my first couple of rides I very nearly had serious buyers remourse as it felt like I was riding a sedated sloth it was so sluggish.
Fortunately, now that it has nearly 200km's on the clock, things have loosened up a bit and she's feeling a little more responsive. I got the dealer to adjust the air/fuel mixture today to hopefully make it a little less lean (down low at least), so I'll see if that help a little too. But what is obvious to me is that I am going to want to get a pipe and re-jet sooner rather than later. I've read these forums a bit and gleened what I can, but I have to admit there is more info to sift through than I have time to. So rather than search for the needle in the haystack I thought I'd ask.
Firstly, my stock jetting is 35 pilot and 132 main. From what I've read, I'd be better off with a 38 pilot and 138 main - but what isn't clear is if that is with the stock pipe or not. It also seems that the FMF Q4 slip on is the way to go, though there is the Muzzy and the Vince to consider as well. My dealer has the Vince, but I can just as easily get an FMF off eBay.
So my question is this: if I get the Q4 slip on, what jets should I change to (so I can order them at the same time)? I am pretty much at sea level here in Sydney, with temps ranging anywhere from the low 20C up to 45C on the worst hot days.
Any and all help is much appreciated. I will probably wait till I've done about 1000km's before I do the pipe and jetting - pretty much after the first dealer service (though given how much the engine has loosened up I think I'll be changing the oil and filter myself this coming weekend to clear out all the worn metal and crud!).
Thanks in advance.
#2
05-10-2010, 10:11 AM
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...4&d=1229086262
If you go this way you'll need an after market filter like a Uni or TwinAir as the stock Kawa' unit is very good at keeping dust out but also air.
13 tooth sprocket is an alternative to the 46 tooth mentioned, and can be fitted with the stock chain for a 13/42 ratio.
Take the whole airbox lid off. (see attachment.^^^^) Crossed plenty of water and never had a problem.
Unstopable and unburstable bike. Love the KLX.
Important:
Being the Aussie model, the header is a KLX300R unit and so a slip on pipe for that model should be ordered. This actually gives you more choice. I recon' JCMotors on the web have some fantastic specials. Saw a Muzzy slip on for under $200 and an FMF Powercore 4 for less than $170. Either will suit the KLX. Procircuit 496 pipe is another KLX300R option that is good value.
If you go this way you'll need an after market filter like a Uni or TwinAir as the stock Kawa' unit is very good at keeping dust out but also air.
13 tooth sprocket is an alternative to the 46 tooth mentioned, and can be fitted with the stock chain for a 13/42 ratio.
Take the whole airbox lid off. (see attachment.^^^^) Crossed plenty of water and never had a problem.
Unstopable and unburstable bike. Love the KLX.
Important:
Being the Aussie model, the header is a KLX300R unit and so a slip on pipe for that model should be ordered. This actually gives you more choice.
I recon' JCMotors on the web have some fantastic specials. Saw a Muzzy slip on for under $200 and an FMF Powercore 4 for less than $170. Either will suit the KLX. Procircuit 496 pipe is another KLX300R option that is good value.
Last edited by WestOzKLX; 05-10-2010 at 10:17 AM.
#3
05-10-2010, 10:41 AM
BRILLIANT! Thanks a million for that mate. Interesting what you say about the header.
So looks like I have points 1 through 5 done already, except I've only removed the snorkle and not the whole box lid. I presume putting on an aftermarket slip-on muffler would be equivalent to removing the spark arrestor (per point 6)? I think I'll hold off on replacing the sprocket just yet (point 8).
So back to jetting, 38 pilot and 138 main sound like the way to go? From chatting with the dealer they should be able to do that for me with genuine Kawasaki parts.
Just a comment on the airbox lid, chatting to the dealer mechanic, he said that with the stock jetting, he found that just taking the snorkle off actually allows too much air through - so she'll run lean. He reckons I'll get slightly better engine response if I cover about 2cm of the snorkle hole to limit the amount of air it sucks in (but still allow more air than the snorkle would have). To protect the engine a bit till I get the jetting re-done I might just do what he says. Do you have any comments?
Oh, and thanks a ton for the suggestion on pipes and supplier! The prices you mentioned are MUCH better than the prices I was given by the dealer, though I can't seem to find the items and prices you mentioned.
Can you confirm that the year model of KLX300R doesn't really matter? I can only seem to find up to a 2008 model.
So looks like I have points 1 through 5 done already, except I've only removed the snorkle and not the whole box lid. I presume putting on an aftermarket slip-on muffler would be equivalent to removing the spark arrestor (per point 6)? I think I'll hold off on replacing the sprocket just yet (point 8).
So back to jetting, 38 pilot and 138 main sound like the way to go? From chatting with the dealer they should be able to do that for me with genuine Kawasaki parts.
Just a comment on the airbox lid, chatting to the dealer mechanic, he said that with the stock jetting, he found that just taking the snorkle off actually allows too much air through - so she'll run lean. He reckons I'll get slightly better engine response if I cover about 2cm of the snorkle hole to limit the amount of air it sucks in (but still allow more air than the snorkle would have). To protect the engine a bit till I get the jetting re-done I might just do what he says. Do you have any comments?
Oh, and thanks a ton for the suggestion on pipes and supplier! The prices you mentioned are MUCH better than the prices I was given by the dealer, though I can't seem to find the items and prices you mentioned.
Can you confirm that the year model of KLX300R doesn't really matter? I can only seem to find up to a 2008 model.
Last edited by Arctra; 05-10-2010 at 10:54 AM.
#4
05-10-2010, 12:07 PM
Just following up the question on the KLX300 header pipe. I saw this post by you a while ago:
I have bolded the part I am questioning here. Today while I was at the dealer they fitted a Leo Vince to a 2010 KLX250S (identical to mine). The mechanic that had fitted it commented that he had to use a gasket filler as the "mid pipe" slip on supplied by Leo Vince (the piece joining the OE header pipe to the Leo Vince Muffler) was a larger diameter than the Kawasaki header pipe. I see in the Leo Vince fitting instructions (http://www.leovince.com/files/F5939/IM-3545-GB.pdf) that they mention a graphite gasket, so don't know if this is peculiar to Leo Vince, or whether it backs up what you are saying about the different size header pipes.
The long and short of it, is there any way of me verifying that my bikes header pipe is indeed a KLX300R (2007/8 model) header pipe and not the same as the US KLX250S header pipe?
Mine's a KLX250RH7A
Talked to the 2 Brothers Australia rep (they're based here in Perth.) The mid pipe that comes with the muffler IS designed to fit the 300 and 250 OE headers according to him. Summary of the conversation below.
The 2 Brothers mid pipe has a long dual taper (necessary to fit 2 sizes of head pipe) on the part that connects to the header. For the 250 the header connects to the smaller diameter pipe, for the 300 you clamp the larger diameter of the mid pipe and let the smaller (the end part) seat further inside the header pipe. To achieve this the small gasket on the inside of the 300 header needs to be removed.
The mismatch and fitting issue is not with the after market pipe. It was identified in the Kawa factory when they fitted the USA spec 250S muffler to the Aus spec 300 header to meet AUS ADR and noise regulations. It appears they solved this by fitting a gasket into the end of the 300 OE header so the 250S muffler could be fitted. Cheap factory fix. The ADR and noise regulations also account for the odd holes we have drilled in the carb' slide (they reduce exhaust noise by limiting the lift of the carb' slide.)
I' sure this info will help.[:-]
Talked to the 2 Brothers Australia rep (they're based here in Perth.) The mid pipe that comes with the muffler IS designed to fit the 300 and 250 OE headers according to him. Summary of the conversation below.
The 2 Brothers mid pipe has a long dual taper (necessary to fit 2 sizes of head pipe) on the part that connects to the header. For the 250 the header connects to the smaller diameter pipe, for the 300 you clamp the larger diameter of the mid pipe and let the smaller (the end part) seat further inside the header pipe. To achieve this the small gasket on the inside of the 300 header needs to be removed.
The mismatch and fitting issue is not with the after market pipe. It was identified in the Kawa factory when they fitted the USA spec 250S muffler to the Aus spec 300 header to meet AUS ADR and noise regulations. It appears they solved this by fitting a gasket into the end of the 300 OE header so the 250S muffler could be fitted. Cheap factory fix. The ADR and noise regulations also account for the odd holes we have drilled in the carb' slide (they reduce exhaust noise by limiting the lift of the carb' slide.)
I' sure this info will help.[:-]
The long and short of it, is there any way of me verifying that my bikes header pipe is indeed a KLX300R (2007/8 model) header pipe and not the same as the US KLX250S header pipe?
#5
05-10-2010, 07:44 PM
check out this thread, maybe it will help: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=32370
look at the muffler and see what the designations are on the pipe. This was all just explained to me by westoz (and others). i am in the process of swapping to the 300 pipe from the stock us 250S pipe. they do look similar, but once you get them side by side, there are definite differences:
- the 300 has the removable butt plug, where the 250S is a welded endcap
- the 300 is way lighter - because no cat converter (??)
- the diameter at the connection of the muffler pipe to the header pipe is wider on the 300 (still too lazy and haven't measured it)
- and because of the above, the output of the header pipe is bigger on the 300 (and i think the 300 header pipe is just a bit longer (making the making the muffler a bit shorter, because the hangers on the muffler match up perfectly on the 250s frame).
look at the muffler and see what the designations are on the pipe. This was all just explained to me by westoz (and others). i am in the process of swapping to the 300 pipe from the stock us 250S pipe. they do look similar, but once you get them side by side, there are definite differences:
- the 300 has the removable butt plug, where the 250S is a welded endcap
- the 300 is way lighter - because no cat converter (??)
- the diameter at the connection of the muffler pipe to the header pipe is wider on the 300 (still too lazy and haven't measured it)
- and because of the above, the output of the header pipe is bigger on the 300 (and i think the 300 header pipe is just a bit longer (making the making the muffler a bit shorter, because the hangers on the muffler match up perfectly on the 250s frame).
#6
05-10-2010, 11:57 PM
(AUS and NZ) We get the KLX300R header and a KLX250S muffler, end of story.
The threads quoted above have the full story.
I suspect we actually get a KLX300R with some KLX250S bits bolted to it to meet ADR (our road compliance) hence the different CDI unit and 300R airboot etc.
The threads quoted above have the full story.
I suspect we actually get a KLX300R with some KLX250S bits bolted to it to meet ADR (our road compliance) hence the different CDI unit and 300R airboot etc.
#7
05-11-2010, 12:05 AM
Just following up the question on the KLX300 header pipe. I saw this post by you a while ago:
I have bolded the part I am questioning here. Today while I was at the dealer they fitted a Leo Vince to a 2010 KLX250S (identical to mine). The mechanic that had fitted it commented that he had to use a gasket filler as the "mid pipe" slip on supplied by Leo Vince (the piece joining the OE header pipe to the Leo Vince Muffler) was a larger diameter than the Kawasaki header pipe. I see in the Leo Vince fitting instructions (http://www.leovince.com/files/F5939/IM-3545-GB.pdf) that they mention a graphite gasket, so don't know if this is peculiar to Leo Vince, or whether it backs up what you are saying about the different size header pipes.
The long and short of it, is there any way of me verifying that my bikes header pipe is indeed a KLX300R (2007/8 model) header pipe and not the same as the US KLX250S header pipe?
I have bolded the part I am questioning here. Today while I was at the dealer they fitted a Leo Vince to a 2010 KLX250S (identical to mine). The mechanic that had fitted it commented that he had to use a gasket filler as the "mid pipe" slip on supplied by Leo Vince (the piece joining the OE header pipe to the Leo Vince Muffler) was a larger diameter than the Kawasaki header pipe. I see in the Leo Vince fitting instructions (http://www.leovince.com/files/F5939/IM-3545-GB.pdf) that they mention a graphite gasket, so don't know if this is peculiar to Leo Vince, or whether it backs up what you are saying about the different size header pipes.
The long and short of it, is there any way of me verifying that my bikes header pipe is indeed a KLX300R (2007/8 model) header pipe and not the same as the US KLX250S header pipe?
The 300R header is a bit longer (1" ish) than the 250S pipe. It also has a larger diameter opening for the muffler to join.
#8
05-11-2010, 12:23 AM
BRILLIANT! Thanks a million for that mate. Interesting what you say about the header.
So looks like I have points 1 through 5 done already, except I've only removed the snorkle and not the whole box lid. I presume putting on an aftermarket slip-on muffler would be equivalent to removing the spark arrestor (per point 6)? I think I'll hold off on replacing the sprocket just yet (point 8).
So back to jetting, 38 pilot and 138 main sound like the way to go? From chatting with the dealer they should be able to do that for me with genuine Kawasaki parts.
You'll need to raise the needle with this jetting.
Just a comment on the airbox lid, chatting to the dealer mechanic, he said that with the stock jetting, he found that just taking the snorkle off actually allows too much air through - so she'll run lean. He reckons I'll get slightly better engine response if I cover about 2cm of the snorkle hole to limit the amount of air it sucks in (but still allow more air than the snorkle would have). To protect the engine a bit till I get the jetting re-done I might just do what he says. Do you have any comments?Just leave the snorkel on until you get an aftermarket filter and new jetting. Don't forget to rise the needle too. The Kawa unit is expensive ($68,) so I just raised the N1RX needle (Unique to AUS, I suspect same a N1TC just not adjustable) with the collar mentioned in the service bulletin I posted. Raises the needle about 1.5 mm.
Oh, and thanks a ton for the suggestion on pipes and supplier! The prices you mentioned are MUCH better than the prices I was given by the dealer, though I can't seem to find the items and prices you mentioned. Can you confirm that the year model of KLX300R doesn't really matter? I can only seem to find up to a 2008 model.
So looks like I have points 1 through 5 done already, except I've only removed the snorkle and not the whole box lid. I presume putting on an aftermarket slip-on muffler would be equivalent to removing the spark arrestor (per point 6)? I think I'll hold off on replacing the sprocket just yet (point 8).
So back to jetting, 38 pilot and 138 main sound like the way to go? From chatting with the dealer they should be able to do that for me with genuine Kawasaki parts.
You'll need to raise the needle with this jetting.
Just a comment on the airbox lid, chatting to the dealer mechanic, he said that with the stock jetting, he found that just taking the snorkle off actually allows too much air through - so she'll run lean. He reckons I'll get slightly better engine response if I cover about 2cm of the snorkle hole to limit the amount of air it sucks in (but still allow more air than the snorkle would have). To protect the engine a bit till I get the jetting re-done I might just do what he says. Do you have any comments?Just leave the snorkel on until you get an aftermarket filter and new jetting. Don't forget to rise the needle too. The Kawa unit is expensive ($68,) so I just raised the N1RX needle (Unique to AUS, I suspect same a N1TC just not adjustable) with the collar mentioned in the service bulletin I posted. Raises the needle about 1.5 mm.
Oh, and thanks a ton for the suggestion on pipes and supplier! The prices you mentioned are MUCH better than the prices I was given by the dealer, though I can't seem to find the items and prices you mentioned.
Can you confirm that the year model of KLX300R doesn't really matter? I can only seem to find up to a 2008 model.Any year KLX300R . I search pipes for an 06 model.
#9
05-11-2010, 12:55 AM
Thanks WestOzKLX - you are clearly the guru on the Aussie machine!
Now that you mention it, the end of the muffler actually touched on the right indicator, which I thought was a bit odd - but it supports what you're saying about the 1" longer header pipe as it would have pushed the muffler back an inch to cause this. I should be going back to the dealer today or tomorrow so I'll try take a couple of pics of the pipe to evidence this.
I must say, the Muzzy may be functional but it doesn't look great to me. I see you have the 2bros M7 - do you rate it? I prefer the look of the M7, and it may be a better option over the FMF Powercore 4. Your informed opinion would be great.
Thanks again for all your help!
This just reinforces the lack of knowledge by some dealers. "It'll work fine." is the usual comment accompanied by a wink after some bodge job on your new bike.
The 300R header is a bit longer (1" ish) than the 250S pipe. It also has a larger diameter opening for the muffler to join.
The 300R header is a bit longer (1" ish) than the 250S pipe. It also has a larger diameter opening for the muffler to join.
Now that you mention it, the end of the muffler actually touched on the right indicator, which I thought was a bit odd - but it supports what you're saying about the 1" longer header pipe as it would have pushed the muffler back an inch to cause this. I should be going back to the dealer today or tomorrow so I'll try take a couple of pics of the pipe to evidence this.
Prices up a little but still great value. Muzzy slip on for KLX300R at $237 (US.) http://www.jcmotors.com/p-6202-muzzy...300-97-07.aspx
Any year KLX300R . I search pipes for an 06 model.
Any year KLX300R . I search pipes for an 06 model.
Thanks again for all your help!
#10
05-11-2010, 02:42 AM
Thanks WestOzKLX - you are clearly the guru on the Aussie machine!
Now that you mention it, the end of the muffler actually touched on the right indicator, which I thought was a bit odd - but it supports what you're saying about the 1" longer header pipe as it would have pushed the muffler back an inch to cause this. I should be going back to the dealer today or tomorrow so I'll try take a couple of pics of the pipe to evidence this.
I must say, the Muzzy may be functional but it doesn't look great to me. I see you have the 2bros M7 - do you rate it? I prefer the look of the M7, and it may be a better option over the FMF Powercore 4. Your informed opinion would be great.
Thanks again for all your help!
Now that you mention it, the end of the muffler actually touched on the right indicator, which I thought was a bit odd - but it supports what you're saying about the 1" longer header pipe as it would have pushed the muffler back an inch to cause this. I should be going back to the dealer today or tomorrow so I'll try take a couple of pics of the pipe to evidence this.
I must say, the Muzzy may be functional but it doesn't look great to me. I see you have the 2bros M7 - do you rate it? I prefer the look of the M7, and it may be a better option over the FMF Powercore 4. Your informed opinion would be great.
Thanks again for all your help!